Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[moparfreak3]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti If I get the parts in time to dyno, I am going to try to have things turned up to 16psi boost, and then when i get to the dyno, pull the boost controller for the first run to do 6psi and then put it back on to see 16psi. I wish it had a healthy set of rings because i am quite certain it will not get amazing power numbers.

16psi that thing is crazy enough on 6 man I wish I had a turbo 3.0

[Ondonti]

Opened up the package that was just sent to me. Happy to see it arrive before dyno day saturday.
New plate has 4 straps
Less straps = dead plate on a minor miss-shift.

[Reaper1]

Good luck!

[Ondonti]

The clutch holds like its not even trying....but
I was so excited to have a clutch that held. A certain super cocky nissan sr20vet I wanted to embarrass missed the embarrassment.

Lost power to dg(darkgreen)/Or(orange) wire feeing coil & injectors

[Ondonti]

I had no reason to miss the dyno day. my coil got pushed towards the coolant return and was jumping
car started now

[Ondonti]

Pulled the car apart at bansheenuts after playing around because something was rattling. Even checked rods by pulling the pan. Nothing bad there. replaced what I thought was a bad lifter.
Anyways, after putting the car back together, it fouled a plug (after not doing that for the previous 24 hours of jacking around with the car) and keeps fouling it so I towed the car back to my place to deal with later.

Maybe cory at least got some video to post.

Maybe a main bearing is bad. My car sounds sorta like 24vshadows car did. I guess I was never quite sure what his sounds were. My rod #4 was out of spec for side to side play but not quite a the service limit. .0145"ish of sideplay. .016 is the service limit. But the tolerance is supposed to be .003 to .010 or something like that. I only checked that rod cap because it was the loosest.

[bansheenut420]

my camera cable is messed up, so I will have to get video tomorrow. Let me just say, this car is freaking wicked on 10psi. And he is spraying enough E85 that you can smell it! It smells great! lol That 1st-4th pull was sooo bad ass!

[martijn001]

Nice engine!

[Ondonti]

:P well the engine is hurting now I think

[comp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti :P well the engine is hurting now I think

from a oiling problem ??

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by comp from a oiling problem ??

No idea at the moment what the problem is, especially since taking it apart made the sound worse :P

[comp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti No idea at the moment what the problem is, especially since taking it apart made the sound worse :P

have you cut the filter ?

[Ondonti]

I checked the rods already, replaced a lifter, etc.

[comp]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti I checked the rods already, replaced a lifter, etc.

i open filters to see whats there

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by comp i open filters to see whats there

Already pulled the oil pan. Filter checking is when you dont want to do that.

There is likely some material from the washers that were under my lifters (which should not have been there because I found they are all broken and destroyed or missing).

I also found that the oil return holes on the 3.0 heads are too small to use exhaust evacuation on an unhealthy block. I will look into opening them up when i build another motor. After a long run under WOT it may starve the motor of oil by filling the heads and not allowing the oil to return because the evacuation system is pulling blowbye air from the crankcase up into the heads. I actually removed one of the connections to my downpipe so I am only using one right now (i had 1 for each valve cover).

The factory oil returns dont even have the casting flash removed on them. I will probably test on a junk slider cam head I have to see how much can be opened up. The block might need massaging too. it would be best if I could tap into the crankcase directly instead of pulling from the valve covers.