Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Reaper1]

^^I was about to say exactly what you did in your last sentence....

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 ^^I was about to say exactly what you did in your last sentence....

Think i could get away with drilling and tapping just 1 spot on the block? One problem is that there are 3 different areas in the crankcase that are divided to reduce pumping losses. Pulling from the head makes it easy to even out the pressure but causes problems draining the oil.

If the car will run again on all 6 cylinders, I will be turning up the boost and making 1 last trip to the race track on this oil burner.

Then in the short term, I'm gonna throw a stock shortblock in (if I need to) install my 47# injectors, and run straight e85. Might not do the e85 right away but I am quite sure e85 can get away with a rediculous amount of power on the stock shortblock. The only thing to worry about are the ring end gaps. e85 will burn cooler so that might not be such a worry.

I might try to grab a 88-91 motor that has the beefier ringlands, so the top rings will be farther from the piston crown. Lots of options. Depending on the condition of my pistons (ringlands might be chewed up from the large clearances and the gapless ring cuting up the ringland from the clearances being huge), I might just rering them. Honestly they are too low compression because I got them before e85 was a popular fuel!
I would go 9:1 if I could afford new pistons.

[Ondonti]

No place to really do it on the block but I could place the pickup for crankcase air at the top of the front of the oil pan. This way under accel, the oil is moving away from that area anyways (would be located next to my oil return).

This would be an EASY mod. I would run 1 line from the pan to my downpipe, and then 1 line from my valvecovers (tee'd together) to the other 1 way valve on my down pipe.

I also need to buy lash caps for my valves so I can stop trying to use crappy flat washers for shims that dont work since our lifter has a spherical end (and mashes the washer into a cup shape before destroying it totally).

I think my valves are 8mm but I dont remember how much shim I need (been awhile). Its less then the cam radius change cause my valves are a little longer. I found some 8mm BMW lash caps that are .060" thick and are purchasable individually (which means I can buy 12 instead of 8 or 16 and I can replace one if it gets lost). I think .060" is not too much but I dont remember.

[Reaper1]

It's been a while since I've looked at the bottom end of a 3.0 in person, but I would think there are more than just 1 place to pull vacuum from the crankcase itself. I can't visualize it, but if I get time later I'll look at some pictures and see if I see anything that looks promising. I have a LOT of reading to do!! LOL

[Ondonti]

I was just looking at the block last night and finding there are no good solutions with the block. The block is compartmentalized above the monoblock girdle. The oil returns dont have much improvement possible either Maybe a little grinding on the heads to get them to a similar diameter as the block return holes. I think the front oilpan mount can work as long as its high enough to not get submerged.

[Ondonti]

Oops. Did a compression test. 1 cylinder was at zero.
I put 3 new washers in on 3 lifters and I think the exhaust lifter on cylinder # 5 was keeping the valve open because I forgot to drain that lifter before putting the new washer in. That would explain the car running like crap lol. There was also a little piece of an old washer still in there helping push on the lifter even more!

I didnt have the magnet I normally use at bansheenut's house so I couldnt get the crap out of the rockers. I am going to measure now my valves. I think they are 8mm but I dont really remember. Lash caps are calling me :P

[Ondonti]

12 second SOHC 6g72 T67 P-trim @ 10psi boost- Video

Glad to get there finally. Need to get the EMS installed because reving higher is more important then HP right now for me going faster. Shifting and dropping out of the powerband suuuuucks.

[mopar3.0]

what are you going to set the rev limiter too?
7?
my car sounds saucy above 5500

[Shadow24V]

nice job brent! definitely get the MS installed, then you can REALLY put it down. you may want to set your rev-limiter higher to say 7500 so you have a bit above teh powerband in case you need a couple mph

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V nice job brent! definitely get the MS installed, then you can REALLY put it down. you may want to set your rev-limiter higher to say 7500 so you have a bit above teh powerband in case you need a couple mph

yeah. I need to invest in lash caps too so i can properly support my valvetrain.

7500 may be too much with the lift on these cams. I guess I will find out, I hope.
I definitly think I can make power @ 7500. Its annoying how much power drops off on shifts. With my dusters current tiny 195/55r15 tires (very short diameter) its not noticable but when I put 225/60r15's on (or slicks) the gap gets annoying.

Shifting @ 7500 would leave me around 5000 rpms or higher on each shift, which I think would help me run MUCH faster because the car tears at 5000+. People seem interested in more boost but I am interested in making good passes on what is already available.

[Reaper1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti People seem interested in more boost but I am interested in making good passes on what is already available.

I gotta say, that is one of the best moves you can make right now!! This is probably one of the best thigns you've done the whole project! NOW you're taking the time to get it right! I totally and completely agree with this move and support you 100%.

[Tim_K]

Does the rear end of the car REALLY need to be that high in the air?

Can it sit more level and still get the benefit of air shocks or some other suspension mod to keep it from sitting down in the rear on launches?

Car sounds and runs very well, too!

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K Does the rear end of the car REALLY need to be that high in the air? Can it sit more level and still get the benefit of air shocks or some other suspension mod to keep it from sitting down in the rear on launches? Car sounds and runs very well, too!

The air shocks lift the car when they are aired up to high pressure. The rear of the car weighs nothing so that has a lot to do with it.

If I coilover the rear, I will be interested to see if it will still raise that high (because I will lower the rear a few inches on coilovers).

[bansheenut420]

1.71 60 fts. I think the car needs to be that high. lol

[Reaper1]

^^ IAWTP