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09-02-2008, 05:50 AM
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#1531
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Actually Chris, if I can get my oil pan vent mod to work decently, I might turn up the boost a bit and try powershifting. I dont know if I will have access to those slicks this friday. I figure if the motor is hurt, and possibly the pistons, I might as well use them at least once before they are junked. I honestly dont think I have the driving skill to hit an 11 with more power because practicing powershifting this car (with this difficult clutch) probably wont happen. Its easy to powershift my Spirit but its really tame.
If I have to put together another motor, I know somethings that will help now. I will open up the drain holes on the heads so they can flow as well as the holes in the block, and not draw so much air from the valve covers.
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09-02-2008, 08:08 PM
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#1532
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Here...
My Ride: 92 White IROC RT
Engine: 2.2 L T-3
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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You can use my radials if I dont blow my stuff up this week. lol And at the rate I am going..... I just might.  And if I do, you can use my slicks.
__________________
Cory Hedin
I have a non-running T3 car! Woot for lifting the head!
-92' White IROC RT PVP Pilot Car <---- page newly updated.
-87' Daytona Shelby Z W/ T tops <---- page under construction :D
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09-02-2008, 10:21 PM
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#1533
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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Brent, I honestly believe just improving the shifting is going to net a nice gain for you. I don't know what you consider "power shifting", but I advise AGAINST doing it unless you like broken trannies and/or engines if it means just leaving the throttle pinned while you shift. I'd still let off the gas. It helps the synchros work like they should, and if you do happen to miss the shift you are less likely to screw up the engine(more in your case).
This is just my opinion based apon two of my good friends' experiences. I've NEVER "power shifted"(as I described above) because of their follies...
YMMV.
Good luck though for sure!
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09-03-2008, 12:28 AM
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#1534
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: '89 2.5 Turbo Spirit
Engine: 2.5 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.920
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I don't know if the shifter cables will like powershifts very much.
Have you considered building a 670 3 speed automatic for the car? They can be built pretty strongly, and I think it'd help with some of the issues you're having.
Plus, you'll be able to stay on the boost all the way down the track, no lifting for shifts!
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09-03-2008, 02:47 AM
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#1535
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Auto trans is going to put the car into the "i cant afford to go that fast" zone way too soon.
Our track just passed a diaper/pan rule for all cars 11.99 and faster. So I would rather barely dip into the 11's and then work on running low 12's with less boost.
Not to mention the issues I am having are related to not staying in my powerband, so if I had an auto trans, the car would bog even worse on shift unless I had a really loose converter. That just wouldnt be a fun car to drive on the street.
Fix the powerband issue is what should be done before bandaid transmissions are thrown on.
I just pulled the oil pan looking for this rattle rattle inside her- Video and didnt find anything in the oil pan except a position marker that fell off a dial caliper, two pieces of a washer that I dropped after the sound started, and the tops of 4 valve guide seals (little rubber ring shaped things). I thought they were RTV blobs before I used brake cleaner on the stuff I found in the pan.
So bearings are good but something is rattling. I tried turning the crank forward and back very abruptly with a breaker bar but all I got was gear rattle from the trans.
Im worried a piston pin is loose in a piston and rattling. Valvetrain would be an easier fix but I havent found anything wrong. The only lifter that was loose I replaced and that didnt seem to help at all
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09-03-2008, 09:43 AM
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#1536
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: '89 2.5 Turbo Spirit
Engine: 2.5 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.920
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Maybe get the cams reground to a somewhat shorter duration so the power band isn't so far up in the rpm range?
That rattle sounds like it is under a valve cover.
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09-03-2008, 01:10 PM
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#1537
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Windsor Locks, CT
My Ride: 92 sundance duster
Engine: 3.0L 24v
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.847
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use a long extension or solid rod as a menchanic's stethescope. you should be able to narrow it down to top or bottom end.
IMO it sounds like something in the valve train.
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09-03-2008, 09:53 PM
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#1539
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: kentucky
My Ride: 87 plymouth voyager
Engine: 3.0l 181ci
Induct: N/A
1/4: 16.499
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hell id hate to throw my noob into this.. but.. well after i wiped up all the drool from looking at that turbo....ahhahaha omg... lol i was thinking it was sounding like a loose cam/or spun cam bearing.
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09-04-2008, 12:41 AM
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#1540
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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A "loose" converter is only to get off the line, and has nothing to do with the shifting after that as the converter is supposed to act "almost" as a solid coupling between the engine and trans after the stall speed. Seeing as you make a really good amount of torque, I'd say that you would probably be able to get away with a stock-ish TD stall speed converter. Remember that the true stall of a converter is dependant on the torque of the engine. The more torque, the higher the stall! The shift points are controlled by the governor in the tranny, if you leave it as an auto. Personally I wouldn't do that. I'd get a RMVB, with possibly a trans-brake. With that combo your car would be INSANE off the line!!!
In order to build a good auto trans(not including a Pelquin, or OBX with adapter ring) WITH a converter is around $1200-1700 depending on parts cost at the time. You'd need a trans cooler for sure, a tranny mount, shifter, and cable(all easily gotten from board members or the wrecker). I understand that is a lot of cash, but trust me, it's money well spent!!
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09-04-2008, 06:51 AM
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#1541
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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I used Bansheenut's scanner to activate each injector and they clicked like normal.
Im hearing some weir suggestions, like an oil control ring is broken. I dont see how it could make that noise though.
Or the valve guide is worn after 1500 miles but it was silent until 20 seconds of driving then it all of a sudden got loud.
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09-04-2008, 03:05 PM
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#1543
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Yeah, Im waiting to put the oil pan back on to try that.
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09-04-2008, 11:05 PM
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#1545
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Re: Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Doing this accomplished nothing......since the noise is gone.
I fixed an exhaust leak when I had the pan off and apparently during my drive 3 weeks ago, the leak got worse and somehow got "tuned" by carbon or whatever to sound like my motor was about to fall apart.
Gonna take the car to a buddies house to get his opinion. He all along said "all i can hear is an exhaust leak" :P
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