Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Not much else to do. 3.0 heads/block dont have enough oil drain. I was going to put a separator on originally but at the time I thought the motor was broken (exhaust leak) so I was just trying to see if it would run again. Feel free to point out what you think is imminent danger in the oil pan. Apparently you didnt read what I found in there when i first put that vent on . There is nothing in the pan. There are a LOT of scratches and the "dry" spots are where I had sprayed some brake cleaner. Every time I pull the pan I have a small heart attack cause I see those scratches and think its bearing material. the vent was a lot smaller before, I only had a small hole in the pan for the big fitting. I decided to open it up and ditch the 5/8" barb so I could use some 1" hose to connect the separator to the Oil pan. I guess it needs more flowpath before the separator so oil can travel back down while air goes up. I think that was a problem with the previous setup, that the air flowpath was consistant so once oil got up there it wouldnt come back down as long as it was being sucked on strong enough. I dont know if this will work either because that device is not meant to be at that angle. But I think the 1" hole can flow enough to return oil from the separator if it is working. Its gonna start snowing here soon and get depressing. BTW, it doesnt suck that much oil. It only would suck oil when I hit over 10 pounds of boost. I rarely ever get into wide open throttle boost. My last trip to the track, the only times my car ever hit full boost were 3 times on a backroad with bansheenut watching the datalogs to tune the car and then once at the track. Its not like there are a bunch of 12 second cars driving around or that it would be safe to race them anyways. My Spirit I could drive around WOT a lot more often because its not fast :P I think I have gone WOT more with people in the car then I ever have by myself (they get in the car because they 'want to see what it can do). It only takes one stab at the throttle to convince myself that the car is dangerous and that I would rather be at the track. I disagree with a lot of people here who have fast cars and think they are safe on the street. You can drive slow and be safe but there sure ain't a point to have that much power in a FWD car on the street. I dont like racing on the street cause I dont want any tickets and when you get in those situations your "danger awareness" turns off (at least mine does). Bad things can happen when you get in that competitive zone in a car on the streets.

I just meant that from what I can see, in the pics of your pan, that the oil residue looks really worn out, being combustion byproduct saturated with fuel, carbon, broken VII polymers and acids, probably also containing wear metals like lead and copper from plain bearing coat, I forget what it is called, .... and so it has that acidic, tacky (clingy in a bad way) soupy grayish look.

Brent, I am not, as I see you can tell , being pissy to you or just criticizing. I think because of all the blow-by, that you need to at least to really shorten your OCIs, until you get the ring seal issue sorted out.

I also still think, I know, I'm terrible , that the oil you are using is way too thick. I know it greatly contributes to the problems you are having. Thicker oil ain't the answer, and that's for sure.

The tight drain back tract from the heads, that you yourself mentioned, is just one reason why switching to a lighter vis like 5w-20, or at least 0w-30 .... is a really good idea. Oil can't even remain intact if it can't circulate well. It quickly turns into motor kill soup.

I wish you would reconsider what i have been telling you about that Brent. I really want to see you succeed.

At least keep the VII spread more narrow, e.g., like at least a 0w-30, instead of a broader VII spread like 0w-40 etc, and bear in mind that it takes more VIIs 'and' a more coarse or crude base stock, to make higher vis oils like 15w or 20w anything.

Go by that and you will have less sheared and toasted left over VII polymers combining with unburnt fuel and carbon and acids from blow-by.

Lower vis oil having a more narrow VII spread, are far more shear stable and hold up much better. Go by that to help take part of the ingredients of motor killer soup out of the equation at least. All of that, in addition to cooling and lubing parts better, because lower vis oils circulate faster.

No, I didn't read what you found in the pan the first time you cracked it, but I bet it is metallic residue, even visible to the naked eye. I am on dial-up these days. We live way out in the sticks now, on purpose , and so I do apologize for not keeping up. All the pics in this thread are killing me here.

I am very relieved, to see your very mature good attitude, about cutting loose with big power on the street Brent.

I know I give you crap sometimes. But I would be terribly saddened if something happened to you. Honest to goodness, I really do, want to see you succeed Brent.

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk Lookin would probably really freak if I suggested Bon Ami'ing the engine...

Naaaaaaaaah.

I suggested that very thing to him a while back.

In fact, I damn near did it myself, before using Auto-Rx the first time last year.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lookin I just meant that from what I can see, in the pics of your pan, that the oil residue looks really worn out, being combustion byproduct saturated with fuel, carbon, broken VII polymers and acids, probably also containing wear metals like lead and copper from plain bearing coat, I forget what it is called, .... and so it has that acidic, tacky (clingy in a bad way) soupy grayish look. Brent, I am not, as I see you can tell , being pissy to you or just criticizing. I think because of all the blow-by, that you need to at least to really shorten your OCIs, until you get the ring seal issue sorted out. I also still think, I know, I'm terrible , that the oil you are using is way too thick. I know it greatly contributes to the problems you are having. Thicker oil ain't the answer, and that's for sure. The tight drain back tract from the heads, that you yourself mentioned, is just one reason why switching to a lighter vis like 5w-20, or at least 0w-30 .... is a really good idea. Oil can't even remain intact if it can't circulate well. It quickly turns into motor kill soup. I wish you would reconsider what i have been telling you about that Brent. I really want to see you succeed. At least keep the VII spread more narrow, e.g., like at least a 0w-30, instead of a broader VII spread like 0w-40 etc, and bear in mind that it takes more VIIs 'and' a more coarse or crude base stock, to make higher vis oils like 15w or 20w anything. Go by that and you will have less sheared and toasted left over VII polymers combining with unburnt fuel and carbon and acids from blow-by. Lower vis oil having a more narrow VII spread, are far more shear stable and hold up much better. Go by that to help take part of the ingredients of motor killer soup out of the equation at least. All of that, in addition to cooling and lubing parts better, because lower vis oils circulate faster. No, I didn't read what you found in the pan the first time you cracked it, but I bet it is metallic residue, even visible to the naked eye. I am on dial-up these days. We live way out in the sticks now, on purpose , and so I do apologize for not keeping up. All the pics in this thread are killing me here. I am very relieved, to see your very mature good attitude, about cutting loose with big power on the street Brent. I know I give you crap sometimes. But I would be terribly saddened if something happened to you. Honest to goodness, I really do, want to see you succeed Brent.

A problem with your analysis is that this oil is brand new 10w30 that only had 50 miles of driving on it.

I pulled the pan after Brake cleaning the cylinders so yeah, the oil is messed up lol.

But from the quality of those pictures, I dont think you can honestly tell anything about the oil. I directly sprayed brake cleaner into the pan before taking these pictures to clean out some of the crap that was in there. It makes things look extra weird.

Before i drove that 50 miles, the pan was completely washed in soapy water and rinsed countless times so it was perfectly clean.
The pictures really are not useful for anything except showing what I did to the pan. I dont really think I should have that separator horizontal like that but I dont know if i will bother to fix it. I should. Maybe Ive talked myself into it now. Having an elbow and a vertical section would probably help keep more oil out of the separator so it could do its job better. .
The main reason i want evacuation is because I dont want oil squirting out the engine seals etc. I can live with the blowbye till I can afford something better. I still might stick a stock shortblock in the car for temporary use. Compression would be down to 8.4:1 with my heads/gaskets and the car could be more reliable since it wouldn't want to foul plugs from sitting too long without running.

I have two magnets in the pan, one on the drain plug and one on the oil level sensor plug (since we dont have a sensor). They are so strong its very hard to screw the plugs in or get them threaded at all.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Do they sell that anymore? I have seen 'quickseat' sold by some ring manufacturers and thats is. Simon has used powdered soap before lol.

Bon Ami

It appears to be still out there...

I am not sure the quickseat would work in your case... I believe it contains teflon...

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti A problem with your analysis is that this oil is brand new 10w30 that only had 50 miles of driving on it. I pulled the pan after Brake cleaning the cylinders so yeah, the oil is messed up lol. But from the quality of those pictures, I dont think you can honestly tell anything about the oil. I directly sprayed brake cleaner into the pan before taking these pictures to clean out some of the crap that was in there. It makes things look extra weird. Before i drove that 50 miles, the pan was completely washed in soapy water and rinsed countless times so it was perfectly clean. The pictures really are not useful for anything except showing what I did to the pan. I dont really think I should have that separator horizontal like that but I dont know if i will bother to fix it. I should. Maybe Ive talked myself into it now. Having an elbow and a vertical section would probably help keep more oil out of the separator so it could do its job better. . The main reason i want evacuation is because I dont want oil squirting out the engine seals etc. I can live with the blowbye till I can afford something better. I still might stick a stock shortblock in the car for temporary use. Compression would be down to 8.4:1 with my heads/gaskets and the car could be more reliable since it wouldn't want to foul plugs from sitting too long without running. I have two magnets in the pan, one on the drain plug and one on the oil level sensor plug (since we dont have a sensor). They are so strong its very hard to screw the plugs in or get them threaded at all.

You had just 50 miles on fresh oil, in a spotless pan, after doing 'the brake cleaner spray treatment', and then you even directly sprayed brake cleaner into the pan "to remove the crud in there".

That despite all the massive solevent dilution, there is any residue at all, really does speak volumes Brent.

I mean check this out.



I can plainly see, by the sharp edges between thick coats bordering clean metal, that the coating is tacked and not running. It's like a coat of half dried paint fer heaven's sake, and that is despite massive solvent dilution.

I still think that picture says a lot Brent, and I stand by my analysis, except now I know, that it was not strong enough.

PS

I think magnets can help with ferrous metal. I use them. They wont help with non ferrous wear metals like copper lead and aluminum though.

[Ondonti]

Um, have you ever seen what brake cleaner does to paint? It totally screws it up. That is what you are seeing in that picture.

The crud was "new" from opening the hole.

[Ondonti]

Axle didnt want to come out. Oops. I think I am going to look for another one cause even though I wont drag race the car till next April/May, it might break soon

[mwinkle353]

yea..... That doesn't look good at all. Maybe a weak link in your powertrain?

[Ondonti]

I guess. Makes me scared cause i was thinking about 26x10" slicks next year.
There is so much more potencial for good 60's in this car if it will avoid breaking.

I cant afford DSS Axles and I dont have a good opinion of the company from some of the crap "stage 5" axles they have made for other cars. They were basically stock axles with a DSS sticker. They even lied about "300m shafts"

I was trying to pull the tranny out a few inches and not remove the passenger side axle but now I am probably going to have to inspect that one too.

[Ondonti]

To be safe, I pulled the passenger axle too. It was stuck, but only because it was binding on the differencial in a different place, not the splines. What ever you would call the smooth part.

Anyways the clearance on the differential bearings is WAY off so I guess when I am launching it twists and that is why the axle started to twist. Also probably why the engagement looks bad on the splines too.

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Um, have you ever seen what brake cleaner does to paint? It totally screws it up. That is what you are seeing in that picture. The crud was "new" from opening the hole.

Well I give up.


Good luck Brent.

[Ondonti]

The freeze plug bounced around and then got stuck here behind the flywheel (visible better in 2nd pic). Scraped up the back of my flywheel.



Not really the right way to do it but considering how bad the slop was, it wont hurt

Differential shims are discontinued by mopar so I am not having fun finding them. This gives me more faith in our stock axles (the Saginaw ones) cause they didnt completely fail even though I was running 1.7 60's on slicks with a differential that was bending the axles sideways in the tranny because of the slop in the differential bearings.

[bansheenut420]

Your scared about your slicks! lol Your car doesnt weigh anything. I can imagine how many axles I will go though launching my heavy pig like that!

[Reaper1]

Brent, do you mean the diff carrier bearing shims? If so, I'm fairly positive that you can get shim kits that will work from other sources. I'd go check out tranny shops, make sure there isn't a supsersceded part number, and/or contact Cliff Ramsdell. There HAS to be shim sources out there! I find it completely unbelievable that they can not be had.

[Ondonti]

Well the tranny shop just gave me a list of their distributors after I twisted their arm. At first they said they dont have any and they cant help me since they cant get them. I mentioned they were the ones to previously shim a tranny for me so they better tell me where the shims come from or I would have a problem since I paid them to shim a diff when they cant get shims.

In the end I went to a 4x4 shop and got spacer from one of the techs that was the right size. He just gave it to me cause he was nice and felt sorry for my situation.

Everyone on the other site seems to know how to get the bearing cup out, but nobody knows where to get shims.

Tranny is all shim'd up now, the dif is tight, I used an axle to turn the diff and there is the slightest drag which indicates I have that little bit of preload that is needed. I am lucky that I had to pull that axle because I could have done a lot more damage leaving that Diff loose.


Still don't have another Saginaw drivers axle since I spent all yesterday with my spirit that overheated (thermostat failed).
Then spent today diagnosing Bansheenut's car.