Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Ondonti]

Went to the yard close where they know me and got another Saginaw axle from a 3.3L for 10 bucks.
Better then paying 60 bucks + core for an autozone crap axle.

[Ondonti]

I think the OBX isnt very happy, I had to open up the splines on the end of my new axle and I had to smooth the shaft on the passenger side because it got "burr'd" when the OBX was flopping around. I am guessing there are burrs on the OBX but it would be hard to get them out. Axles wouldnt go in but after those two procedures they popped right back in like they used to.

Tempted to get the car running fast but I have a few things I want to do first.
1. finish the oil evac for the oil pan (help the oil/air seperator have a nice drain and have it perpendicular with the ground).
2. redo the front bumper attachments I have. Its just the bumper cover and it sits back too far so it rubs the Big tires I put in front. Need to add 2 more metal straps to hold the bumper up also.
3. Extend the clutch arm so the clutch is a little easier to push in. I dont need to do this but since the car is apart, I might as well try to make a few things better instead of ignoring them.

Then, when the car is ready to go with fluids etc, I am going to pretend to break the motor in again after doing the brake cleaner crap. I doubt it will matter.
Not going to let it warm up much in the driveway or possibly not at all, not gonna let the cylinders get really hot so they glaze. I dont warm my daily drive up at idle, I prefer low rpm cruising with light throttle use. In theory at least :P

[Ondonti]

T67 turbo 3.0 SOHC 6g72 Duster burnouts + 0-120mph- Video
The car playing on the street

[XxPichulonxX]

That was pretty cool... reminds me of a mad modded car from Gran Turismo or somethin'.

[Ondonti]

I finished the bumper cover supports. Added two small steel straps on the sides of the bumper cover connected from the front of the chassis to the bottom of the lip to pull up on the bumper to help support it. 10x better then what I had before. The problem with making it more solid is then people want to push on your non existent bumpers and break them cause they look solid :P

Also built an extended clutch arm to make the clutch pedal easier with this 3300# dual diaphram pressure plate.

I dont know if it will work cause the engagement is near the floor. I am going to buy some washers to use as spacers and then see if it gets better. I'll post pics later.

[Ondonti]

Here is something I posted on 3si.org.

The foam and back rubber coating is me working on making the car quieter. There used to be big holes in the metal panel in the corners until this year when I fixed that. Still have more to do with the foam now that I found some fire resistant stuff at walmart.
Exhaust weighs a lot but my ears deserve some luxury. Might consider a side exit someday but police are not fun. I prefer them thinking my cams are an "exhaust leak" then having it obvious this is a race car :P

This one shows that I either need some holes in the bumper cover (not very sleeper lol) or some thin lexan to cover the gap. There is a bonneville racer in our local Dodge group so his work inspires me to be smarter about aero. Its just hard to do that stuff when everything else needs attention.



Here is the lexan side window. Waste of effort because the stock window weighs like 4 pounds :(
I was a little too excited at the time about weight savings. Only saved 22 pounds totalwith lexan rear windows, BUT its weight removed from the rear which helps FWD traction at the drag strip. FWD likes all weight to be located in front, preferably in front of the front axles.

Paper thin.

[Ondonti]

Happy with the Evac Drain. This new tube before the Oil/air separator is about 3-4x the area of a 5/8" hose fitting on the "suck" side. Oil should be able to drain while air rushes past to the separator.




Not sure yet if I will like this. The pedal is easier but the disengagement is at the floor. I tried to use spacers but I dont think that helped. I will have to drive it to see if this will work.

[Ondonti]

Well I went out to seat the rings (only driving uphill so I could roll the car home if needed) and when i got back, the crankcase vent that I installed had blown off. I think the rubber didnt like the temperatures cause it was very very pliable (it normally is not). So I will have to get some better hose from a Evco hose of hose. I use good hose for my oil drain and I guess this one doesnt like what I did.

Still, if its blowing off, that means there is a lot of crankcase pressure. This was only with 6 pounds of boost and I wasnt really going WOT to avoid overheating the cylinders and glazing. Just loading it up and part throttle boosting and decel. I hit WOT just a couple times and only for a moment.

Edit: the connection to the oil pan almost fell off too. I will have to be creative now. Maybe just tack weld a small lip around most of that fitting. The fitting is smaller at the end so its hard to get a good clamp load on there. It just wants to slide off. Seems rediculous that there is that much pressure though. I a large bump/dip and maybe that jumbled things that were loose because of then hot "melty" hose. I guess I will find out. i will probably hook my boost sensor up to the front manifold and test actual pressure in the block. I am doing too much guesswork.

I did a fun "part throttle" powershift with maybe 1 pound of boost. It was pretty dang fun. Just wanted to see if my practice was working. That clutch grabs! Tires broke loose on the part throttle shift just because of how nasty the clutch is
So shifting like that on the street is pointless (especially if I tried WOT shifting) but on the track maybe it will work. Dang fun still. Trans seems to be shifting real smooth so I think it wants me to break it some more
If I can get that vent to stay on, then I will.

[Tim_K]

After watching the last video, I think I figured out why you have so many motor problems.

You put it on the rev limiter and hold it there way too much!

Just because it CAN rev to 6200 rpms doesn't mean it SHOULD live at that speed all the time! This isn't one of those little Honda B-whatever chainsaw motors in a drag racing modded Civic!

[speeduphoria]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K You put it on the rev limiter and hold it there way too much!

I tend to agree every time I see a video its bouncing off the limiter a lot most of the video.

On this "EVAC" stuff, I was doing more reading on venturi/Bernoulli's principle.

The way it works, You have to have the restriction big enough so that the pressure difference is created. The venturi works from a large diameter decreasing to a small diameter and then back to a large. The increase in velocity creates negative pressure that draws air(whatever) from the opening.

Basically the further you place the nipple in the pipe, creates a bigger restriction which will help "pull"

[mopar3.0]

my trannys shifts like shit, im thinking its due to the bends in the cables, maby if moved the shifter back it might help

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K After watching the last video, I think I figured out why you have so many motor problems. You put it on the rev limiter and hold it there way too much! Just because it CAN rev to 6200 rpms doesn't mean it SHOULD live at that speed all the time! This isn't one of those little Honda B-whatever chainsaw motors in a drag racing modded Civic!

You realize that the shortblock is 9000 rpm friendly?

If you want to make statements like that then you should pick particular instances of motor problems and then relate them to the rev limiter.

Last I checked the motor still runs. If you read the thread, the problems have to do with the mechanic (me) not the driver. I hardly drive the car. Nobody ever had their rocker arm tube turn upside down because they run the car off the incredibly low rpm limiter. But improper installation by me will do it every time and seize a cam and break the down pin etc etc.

Not being more involved in determining the bore of my motor (instead of the "race motor instructions provided") causes my bad ring seal :(
Lifter problems have to do with me learning how that system works, and how it doesnt work.

I have never actually broken anything on the motor through abuse. To me, that is a shame. That is what its for, to be broken by abuse, not my stupidity.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mopar3.0 my trannys shifts like shit, im thinking its due to the bends in the cables, maby if moved the shifter back it might help

I wish we could get shorter cables. I dont run the cables through the exhaust tunnel, but through the firewall. My cables need to be about 6-8" shorter.

Some cables also get "gummy" inside and dont work as well. If your trans is being a jerk, try 50/50 Pennzoil synchromesh and factory 5-30 or try straight synchromesh. I know some people don't like synchromesh in our trans but that can be talked about somplace else.
Mine is like 25-30% mesh right now because i accidentally spilled some out after adding it.

[Tim_K]

Yeah I know the short block can rev to 9000, but still, all the high-rev running seems excessive to me.

[Ondonti]

stresses from RPM's are exponential, so 6000 rpms is like a crawl through the park compared to 9000 :P
I want to stop crawling and at least graduate to walking.