Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[lookin]

I don't know for certain, but I think 2 steps colder is about right.

Porcelain is a lot harder than some may think. I think it could cause such damage ... given all the heat and pressure involved.

The good news is that your motor was still running, and so maybe your heads valves etc., is not all toast. You may even only need RINGS <--. So .... hey .... that is very good.

Sorry this happened, and I hope it all works out for you.


PS

I am dying to know what your cylinder walls, pistons skirts, rings and lands, look like. Please post pics after tear down.

[Ondonti]

There is scuffing from the 2 bad spots on the pistons. and I already knew about the wear on the cylinders from the big clearances. Piston definitely slaps around when cold.

I currently think that the oil rings are not doing their job because they require radial tension to work.
I am assuming there will be a lot of burns on the sides of the pistons but I will find out.

[GentleCowboy]

Keep us posted, I haven't started my 3.0 yet so I need to know.

[Reaper1]

Porcelin can defintaly cause damage. Although it's a boosted engine, that *could* be only from one object being bounced around between cyclinders. I've seen that happen before. Check your turbo to see if there's any damaged compressor blades. If not, I'd lean towards a chewed up plug/s causing this.

As somebody else said, be sure to check the vlaves and seats to make sure they aren't damaged!

Honestly the damage isn't too horrible, it should be completely savable!

[Ondonti]

I went to my supra friend tonight to look at the flowbench, didnt finish the work on the TIII head but talked to him about the repairs. He told me how to prep the hole so he can TIG weld it. He said he has done a couple 2jz heads before :) so he is completely comfortable with it.
We also talked about filling the head and then drilling out the coolant passages.

Gravity fill so we fill maybe an inch or less on the deck side. He seems pretty excited about trying that. I am going to look more at the heads and possibly practice drilling a junk head to make sure its possible. Also think about ways to fill so we know we can get the crap into the spots it needs to be. Then when the heads are repaired and partial filled, surface them.

Ive never really looked at how the entire cylinder head is hallow above the chamber. I think filling will be an intersting project. Opening up the combustion chambers on my heads definitely weakened them but the weakened areas are still stronger then the place where it actually flexes. Ill get pictures of that. I dont actually understand why it flexes there. I tlooks weaker between the intake and exhaust valves (totally hallow) but apparently it prefers flexing between the exhaust and intake valves. I think its partially because the gap between headbolts is longer end to end on the head then side to side.

[Ondonti]

9.3:1 junkyard motor with a leaky intake valve (crap why do I have 2 3.0's with leaky valves now!).
I committed a horrible sin with this motor but as you can tell I don't care about it!























v6 competition

[Reaper1]

Interesting that engine has a factory block heater!

[thedon809]

I have that same light.

[kreel]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 Interesting that engine has a factory block heater!

I have yet to find a 3.0L without one. Guess it doesn't get too cold down there ;)

[Ondonti]

haha so thats what it is! I had a phone conversation with my mom about them last week for some reason. In the old days her $500 toyota would stay plugged in all night (highschool/college) during Spokane winters. Ive never seen one used before! Too bad the plug is sorta messed up.


btw Don did your light break off the hanger too? I had to turn a screw into a stud and screw both halves together to fix mine. Not buying another 10 dollar light :P
The top doesn't fit very well either. I used to use lightbulbs and I got tired of them dieing when I dropped it.

[Reaper1]

Yeah, it *might* get in the 20's on the coldest days!

[Ondonti]

stock 9.3:1 1997 motor running on E85!

E85 Stock 3L :: MVI_4443.flv video by ondonti - Photobucket

[Tim_K]

Why didn't you clean up the short block before putting that greasy, filthy mess of a motor in the car? I know it's just a stock short block, but damn........

By the photos, it looks like you took it apart down to the short block and swapped over the intake, head assemblies, and flywheel / clutch assembly from the race motor, right?

Or are those stock heads and stock cams with the custom made intake on them?

I'm curious as to how much a stock cast piston short block will hold in boost! Looking forward to seeing and hearing the video of it!

[Ondonti]

Its a bone stock longblock. The sin I committed was taking a dremel to the intake and exhaust ports with the heads still attached to the shortblock. I dont really care about the motor and it survived. I wasnt going to waste my time with how clogged up they were before. Never seen anything so bad.

Swapped my turbo oil pan and turbo valve covers and my oil tee and anything else needed for my turbo setup and dropped it in.

I also swapped to the heavy steel flywheel in order to help protect my crankshaft.

And I just stopped working on the faux interior. I lost the padding for the dash but now I have lots of useful nut and bolt and tool holders :P
The door panels are almost half weight. I cut out most of the rear cardboard backing and I cut most of the plastic out of the door handles. I am happy that the door locks mechanisms won't be rattling around anymore. The Zeitronix display install needs help but I sorta gave up on that for now.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

I'm curious as to how much a stock cast piston short block will hold in boost! Looking forward to seeing and hearing the video of it!

Having run boost on a stock motor, you can push 10psi (or more) as long as you avoid detonation. As I have said before the bigger issue is not pistons but the rings...