Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[lookin]

Very enlightening. Thank you. Yeah, not burning oil is a good thing, and man have you ever proved that a stock engine can be pushed to perform! I giggle and beam every time I replay your vid in my memory.

Why not try different head tricks on stock bottoms? Get a few of them from the yard for back ups. Maybe they will give you a volume discount. :)

That actually does sound doable to me.

Good luck pushing into the low 11s!

I know you will do it!

[Reaper1]

Brent, here's a REALLY crazy idea....what about grinding out the chamber all the way through, then rewelding it all the way? You'd have to have the heads re-heat treated, meaning removal of ALL other types of metal(seats, guides, ect.). It'd be a LOT fo work, time, and money, but it would produde the best results. You could also then reshape the chambers any way you see fit!

Another idea:
Drill holes through the chamber and fill that way. Weld the holes shut.

Idea for disolvable guide: styrofoam. Shape it the way you want, hold it with glue or something where you want, then inject the filler. Once it hardens use acetone to get out the styrofoam. It works great for making fiberglass parts!

[Ondonti]

Well the head is pretty easy to fill from the bottom without drilling. We thought about rewelding the heads but its a lot of work.

Where will I get Styrofoam rods the size of a soda straw though?
Head will definitely happen before the shortblock. Would be fun to make more power on less boost. Then try stock shortblock with megasquirt.

Ive already had the injectors fail from clogging up (fuel lines must have been gunked up from previous owner) so they are sticking/leaking/etc. Will cost more to fix then the darned engine cost and it hasn't broken yet!

[Ondonti]

When I air up my air shocks from 15-20 to 100ish psi, the car lifts about 3" and pretty much takes the body off the spring perches. These straps prevent the body from lifting and preload the suspension.

This is what I made for both sides. Works dang well when I air up the shocks. I pretty much hand turn the turnbuckle until I cant go any farther then air up the shocks. Rear no longer lifts up 3"

But I think for long term I will need steel turnbuckles and these will certainly strip out.

Also, my camber was -1.6 pass 0 drivers. I will move driver strut around till I can fix that, the cam bolt is almost maxed out.

I think with these two new tricks I am going to devastate some 60'
You can see my car picking up the front end and still 1.71-1.73 60's

I wonder how much it will help beyond me dreaming?

[irocelectric93]

Whats been your best 60 so far? i thought that i remembered 1.9 in there somewhere. Thats pretty good on its own esp since you really dont have much done with your suspension. Dream big brent

[Ondonti]

The car consistently does 1.71-1.74 with the back end ducking and diving and the camber all messed up.

Seeing how much this improves the rear end and how bad my camber is, i think with a smokey burning on the E brake, 1.59 might be possible? Holy crap that would rock!

[irocelectric93]

i didnt realize you had gotten your 60s that good. Thats AWESOME as it is! Def shoot for that 1.5

[Tim_K]

There's one improvement to the Shadow that I think really needs to be made.

Replace the hood. I don't know if it had been mentioned before, but it REALLY looks bad! The damn thing is rusted out on the front and is BENT halfway back!

Get a junkyard hood, spray can it blue like the rest of the car, and make a subtle, somewhat larger hood scoop where needed for clearance. Not one of those huge dumb looking riceboy scoops, just something that will allow the the hood to close normally and look half decent.

In fact, give the whole car a quick spraycan paint job, at least if it were all the same color it'd look a little better.

[Ondonti]

So somehow my tune changed from 11.9:1 afr peak to 9:1 or less and thats why it was misfiring.

Leaned it out and now the car is runing 22psi boost. At Chris's advice over the phone, I decided to leave it there. May 15th track date if everything goes well. Still need to fix the camber but at least I know its all wrong and I have the tools to do it properly.

I guesstimate its near 10.99 second power levels unless the stock motor stops giving good returns in the higher boost levels. My guess was 70-90hp gain going from 16psi to 22psi (15hp/psi or less). My traps speeds are low from a bad 3-4 shift and the calculator only shows about 317hp based on my traps speeds and add 70 onto that and you have 10 second power. And thats being conservative with my false low trap speeds. This motor stays in the powerband better so its definitely performing well per amount of horsepower.
Holy crap auto trans would run a 10 no problems! First I need to hit my 11.49 goal and then I will work on the 1/8th mile times to see if I can short track good enough to run a 10 on a stock 3.0. Or blow up.

The suspension, camber, e brake work should help take some responsibility off me as the driver to run a good time. I am way excited :)

There is a nice little puddle of oil in my pan now. Yay pan :)

[Ntrain2k]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti I have not researched the materials for filling so I dont know what the best material is for an aluminum head.

Look for a material called Devcon.

[DaytOmni]

Hey, Just my .02, Keep the hood, it looks badass. Like Sharks teeth. Sleepers FTW!

[lookin]

I agree with DaytOmni 100%. It does look like sharks teeth. Looks mean as all heck.

[lookin]

GO BRENT!

[Ondonti]

Duster's $90 Junkyard Motor Tuning to 24psi boost.- Video

[DaytOmni]

Okay, Okay, I'm officially looking for a 3.0 to wrench on. Hella impressive Brent.