Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

Ondonti · 09-20-2006, 08:12 PM

well it ran for about 25 seconds and there is no oil below the cam.
Not sure where a blockage could be in the head. just had it all apart and cleaned everything up......head got a bath again.

Hoping its not the block

Ondonti · 09-20-2006, 08:25 PM

Pulled the rocker arm bolt that goes through the oil feed
it has oil on it but the others dont.

turbovanman · 09-20-2006, 08:39 PM

Wonder if the cam bearings were installed wrong blocking the oil port?

Ondonti · 09-20-2006, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbovanman

Wonder if the cam bearings were installed wrong blocking the oil port?

There are no cam bearings

Oil has to go through the rocker arm tubes first.

m90daytona · 09-20-2006, 11:21 PM

possibly you have a pressure leak and are losing enough oil pressure for it not to make it up into the head? maybe the oil pump is faulty and sucking air?

turbovanman · 09-21-2006, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

There are no cam bearings

Oil has to go through the rocker arm tubes first.

Sorry, thinking out loud, and thinking V8/V6 OHV,

mwinkle353 · 09-21-2006, 06:45 AM

Is it possible that you installed the rocker tube assemblies on the wrong head? Make sure that the oil feel holes are in their propler location.

DustyR/T · 09-21-2006, 10:12 AM

Dang Brent, you must be banging your head against the wall. I know I would be after all you've been through with this motor. You've got patience. Why the heck would oil NOT be getting to the head?
Just thinking out loud, but if he wanted to test to see if oil were getting there, could he (w/ heads off and ignition disabled) turn the motor over and see if oil shoots out of the block? I never said it wouldn't be messy, but it would be easy once you have the heads off.

Harvii · 09-21-2006, 12:56 PM

dang dood. You are having enough problems with this build. I had a oil pressure issue in my 2.5L Daytona Shelby and it turned out to be the fuel pressure was to high and too much fuel was getting into the cyl. Some of it pushed past the rings and thinned the oil out. Took me 2 rebuilds to figure out the Aftermarket adjustable FPR was a POS.

Ondonti · 09-21-2006, 04:10 PM

Well my oil pressure is great. the sunpro gauge is quite inaccurate IMO (its leftover from previous owners project) but Im getting 75 psi at idle (I think this value is not accurate, but i at least can tell if something is wrong. Stupid P body's dont have an oil pressure gauge).

My thought was i will remove the timing belt, then remove the rocker assemblies, and check to see if oil is getting to the head when I crank the engine over. I will then proceed from there. I dont have time to mess with it till friday evening.

Oil pump is a brand new high performance toga.

Last time I had the heads apart the rear head was getting a crapload of oil. the front head seemed to be having problems before and now it seems worse.

m90daytona · 09-21-2006, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

Well my oil pressure is great. the sunpro gauge is quite inaccurate IMO (its leftover from previous owners project) but Im getting 75 psi at idle (I think this value is not accurate, but i at least can tell if something is wrong. Stupid P body's dont have an oil pressure gauge).

My thought was i will remove the timing belt, then remove the rocker assemblies, and check to see if oil is getting to the head when I crank the engine over. I will then proceed from there. I dont have time to mess with it till friday evening.

Oil pump is a brand new high performance toga.

Last time I had the heads apart the rear head was getting a crapload of oil. the front head seemed to be having problems before and now it seems worse.

75psi seems way too high at idle. a good rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000rpm's. 75psi is good for like 5000-8000 rpm's if you ask me. if you have 75 at idle then your going to have like 130-150 at high revs.

second, if you are not getting any oil in the front head, you can remove the valve cover and start the engine to see why. i have done this before and it wont hurt anything as long as you dont run it to long of course.

**c2xejk** · 09-21-2006, 10:09 PM

I bet you have a chunk of RTV lodged somewhere... 75 psi idle is way too much...

Ondonti · 09-21-2006, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m90daytona

75psi seems way too high at idle. a good rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000rpm's. 75psi is good for like 5000-8000 rpm's if you ask me. if you have 75 at idle then your going to have like 130-150 at high revs.

second, if you are not getting any oil in the front head, you can remove the valve cover and start the engine to see why. i have done this before and it wont hurt anything as long as you dont run it to long of course.

valve cover has been off, thats how I know its not oiling. I need to see what part of the passage is possibly blocked. Im going to start with removing as little as possible and work from there.

DustyR/T · 09-22-2006, 07:31 AM

cool beans. If you had the block apart, you could pour oil down individual passages and see which ones come out the bottom. I know thats out of the question at this point in time, and I hope it doesn't come to that period. I would absolutely be FURIOUS if I had to do that.

**Turbo224** · 09-22-2006, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk

I bet you have a chunk of RTV lodged somewhere... 75 psi idle is way too much...

I dont think so, not if the motor is still cold. My R/T reads about 60-65 when I first start it when cold. And thats on an autometer gauges. When it warms uo it drops to about 15 at idle.