Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NA2ndgen That is the first I have heard, that makes sense to me, by way of an explanation for why heat may not be a problem. Why, I can almost believe it now. Yes I am turbo "unexperienced", and yes under-hood temps is a big part of what puts me off. Well that, and the many hundreds of posts I have read here, of 4 banger turbo unreliability. I will wait until I hear a reasonable, non insultingly patronizing voice I can trust, from someone who has had a 3.0 turbo running, for years, without being high maintenance and prone to break downs. Thank you.

Underhood temps have almost no relevance to turbo 4 cylinder breakdowns.

Combustion temps cause breakdowns, mechanical failure and worn parts cause breakdown.

Tuning mistakes cause breakdowns.

Underhood temperature is something to worry about if you are diagnosing a problem. Underhood temperature is not a problem by itself.
Underhood temperature is often not going to change my intake charge Temperature even 1 DEG F so what should I care?
My car doesnt even have a full hood lip because it was rusted. I Cut that off. I already have a straight shot of air going into my engine bay that does not pass through the radiator.

Hell, your IC piping gets hot before the IC simply because the turbo increases air temperature when it compresses. Should we get rid of the IC piping because it is radiating heat into the engine bay? Is it financially resonable to ceramic coat everything in the engine bay in order to prevent engine failure? NO.

If the factory is willing to do something, then I dont see why I should be afraid to do the same. My turbo is not near anything else in the engine bay. Most factory installations of turbo's are tightly packed into the engine bay. Protective coatings are used to prevent rust on some IC piping, thats about it.

My turbo will run cooler in its location then a turbo sitting behind the engine.
The turbo is cooling itself by letting heat into the engine bay. Cooler turbo = less heat transfered to air that is already heated by compression of the turbo. Turbo mounted behind engine like in many 4 cylinders will lead to a hotter turbo that transmits more heat to the intake charge. Hotter turbo, less life. I can go on but the argument is pointless.

[Ondonti]

applying the idea that "cooler transmissions last longer"
to engines is incorrect.

Engines like to be hot. The hotter they are, the more efficient they are.

[NA2ndgen]

But I wrote this:
.... and yes under-hood temps is a big part of what puts me off. Well that, and the many hundreds of posts I have read here of 4 banger turbo unreliability.

Unreliability issues concern me the most though really. If the guys who have OE turbo 4 bangers, break down a lot, then what of 3.0 turbo conversions? If I had money to spend, on just a fun car without having to worry about it breaking down. I would go for it. My minivan is our daily driver. All the mods were done taking reliability into consideration also. So far so good too.

I admire what you are doing, and I am also fascinated by it. I can't afford to make a 'fun only' car though. If I could afford to add FA, I would be conservative and go with light boost, and heat management is something I would take into consideration more. Just because we have different approaches, does not make either of us idiots or bad people or something, does it?

[NA2ndgen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti applying the idea that "cooler transmissions last longer" to engines is incorrect. Engines like to be hot. The hotter they are, the more efficient they are.

OH for heavens sake. I understand that. The headers on Honda race engines, are literally translucent, they run so hot at high rev.

My minivan is not a race car though. It isn't fast. It is just quick for a 3.0 Caravan, breaks really good for a Caravan, and it handles very well for a Caravan.

It also gets truly great gas mileage now, is very very reliable, and it is comfy and really fun to drive now. That's all. That is just what I was aiming for though, when I began 2 years ago, and I even learned a little in the process.

[Una]

Stop your pissing match.. You both know I can piss the farthest.

[NA2ndgen]

pissing match?

If there is one it is news to me.

[m90daytona]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti applying the idea that "cooler transmissions last longer" to engines is incorrect. Engines like to be hot. The hotter they are, the more efficient they are.

if that was true then you wouldnt need a radiator. hotter engines cause hoses, wires, and conduit to harden and become brittle. causes higher intake temps, and a higher chance of detonation. i think your setup is fine but i wouldnt agree that hotter engines are more efficient.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by m90daytona if that was true then you wouldnt need a radiator. hotter engines cause hoses, wires, and conduit to harden and become brittle. causes higher intake temps, and a higher chance of detonation. i think your setup is fine but i wouldnt agree that hotter engines are more efficient.

Investigate on what temperature thermostate gets the best fuel economy then rethink what you just said.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NA2ndgen pissing match? If there is one it is news to me.

Just so you know, this thread is not about your minivan or your personal performance goals. Therefore I dont care about your personal views on how you are building your car in context of this thread. leave that for something else.

This is a thread devoted to my project and helping figure out ways to deal with the problems that come up in the project.

Talking about the fueling issues I currently have would be productive. I know Im not the only one posting in this thread who plans to make a lot of horsepower.

[NA2ndgen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by m90daytona if that was true then you wouldnt need a radiator. hotter engines cause hoses, wires, and conduit to harden and become brittle. causes higher intake temps, and a higher chance of detonation. i think your setup is fine but i wouldnt agree that hotter engines are more efficient.

All very good points.

[NA2ndgen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Just so you know, this thread is not about your minivan or your personal performance goals. Therefore I dont care about your personal views on how you are building your car in context of this thread. leave that for something else. This is a thread devoted to my project and helping figure out ways to deal with the problems that come up in the project. Talking about the fueling issues I currently have would be productive. I know Im not the only one posting in this thread who plans to make a lot of horsepower.

I know that. I tied to make a suggestion for your benefit is all.

You have your mind made up.

You know everything.

Fine.

It is your party after all.

[m90daytona]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Investigate on what temperature thermostate gets the best fuel economy then rethink what you just said.

first, investigate what makes an engine sieze or detonate and then look up the word "thermostate" because it only exists in the german dictionary. i dont mean to bust on you but i dont know what "thermostate" is...did you mean the thermostat? if so, fuel economy and hp are two diffrent things.

i do believe your set-up will be fine as far as cooling goes but i disagree w/ "the hotter the better"...maybe its just me

[irocelectric93]

In my humble opinion hotter= better ..to an extent. I delt with cooling problems in the iroc for a while. Now it runs cooler than ever...however an engine that doesnt run at the right temp wont burn efficiently...obviously. So to say that i completely agree with engines loving heat would be false. Heat is good though. Brents setup is good in my opinion overall. I must agree with brent here though...we are here to focus on his fueling issues not heat problems or whatever. Somehow i doubt that if you told brent that his setup wouldnt work he wouldnt listen anyway. Keep in mind that he has ran "basically" same setup before with no heating issues.

[93sundance]

I believe Brent's Duster is only going to be a race car. I doubt he is all that concerned about reliability.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NA2ndgen But I wrote this: .... and yes under-hood temps is a big part of what puts me off. Well that, and the many hundreds of posts I have read here of 4 banger turbo unreliability. Unreliability issues concern me the most though really. If the guys who have OE turbo 4 bangers, break down a lot, then what of 3.0 turbo conversions? If I had money to spend, on just a fun car without having to worry about it breaking down. I would go for it. My minivan is our daily driver. All the mods were done taking reliability into consideration also. So far so good too. I admire what you are doing, and I am also fascinated by it. I can't afford to make a 'fun only' car though. If I could afford to add FA, I would be conservative and go with light boost, and heat management is something I would take into consideration more. Just because we have different approaches, does not make either of us idiots or bad people or something, does it?

[Shadow24V]

IIRC, engines run better hotter, TO A CERTAIN POINT, after that, excessive heat causes IAT's to climb causing the possibility of detonation, oil breakdown and toehr failures to go up. but on an actual note...

what are you doing about the fueling system for your HP? are you going to re-fuel line your vehicle with some 6AN lines or something? (im kinda curious when ill hit the max sustainable limit on my 92 duster fuel system if i S/C my 24v...)

also, on my 12v and even on my 24v, on a cold start redline rev, ill push past 100psi (brand new sunpro gauge) on warmup, less than 20 psi at idle

hey, thats also the same color as my duster! (2dr 5sp brent?) also what are you going to do about traction? im thinking i might have some traction issues when i S/C the 24v i swapped in