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3.0 Turbo Turbocharged 3.0 V6 Conversations

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Old 10-04-2006, 12:43 AM   #406
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m90daytona
if that was true then you wouldnt need a radiator. hotter engines cause hoses, wires, and conduit to harden and become brittle. causes higher intake temps, and a higher chance of detonation. i think your setup is fine but i wouldnt agree that hotter engines are more efficient.
hotter engines are more efficient. Cooler engines often make more power. Especially if the rings are worn.
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:45 AM   #407
 
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Originally Posted by Shadow24V
IIRC, engines run better hotter, TO A CERTAIN POINT, after that, excessive heat causes IAT's to climb causing the possibility of detonation, oil breakdown and toehr failures to go up.
Well yeah, that is obvious. You don't want to be running at 250*
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Old 10-04-2006, 12:47 AM   #408
 
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Originally Posted by Shadow24V
hey, thats also the same color as my duster! (2dr 5sp brent?) also what are you going to do about traction? im thinking i might have some traction issues when i S/C the 24v i swapped in
I recommend eibach springs, and koni struts and shocks. Install a true LSD in the trans. Run some fat tires. You should be able to pull off a 1.9 60 ft on street tires at the track.
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Old 10-04-2006, 01:12 AM   #409
 
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got any pics of this engine?
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Old 10-04-2006, 01:25 AM   #410
 
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I have slicks for traction.
This is a race car.

I have a cheap car for driving called a dodge spirit.
Thank you josh and electric for pointing out things that are beyond speculation.
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Old 10-04-2006, 01:29 AM   #411
 
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Originally Posted by Shadow24V
IIRC, engines run better hotter, TO A CERTAIN POINT, after that, excessive heat causes IAT's to climb causing the possibility of detonation, oil breakdown and toehr failures to go up. but on an actual note...

what are you doing about the fueling system for your HP? are you going to re-fuel line your vehicle with some 6AN lines or something? (im kinda curious when ill hit the max sustainable limit on my 92 duster fuel system if i S/C my 24v...)

also, on my 12v and even on my 24v, on a cold start redline rev, ill push past 100psi (brand new sunpro gauge) on warmup, less than 20 psi at idle

hey, thats also the same color as my duster! (2dr 5sp brent?) also what are you going to do about traction? im thinking i might have some traction issues when i S/C the 24v i swapped in
Read page 25 where I posted pictures.
Besides what Posted there, I have a 255high pressure walbro and in installed a 5/16" return line so I could achieve lower base fuel pressure with the 255 pump. Stock pump and 1/4" line I could only get down to 26 psi. I think with the 5/16" line it is down to 20 psi using the 255 walbro. My fuel pressure gauge seems to be damaged though and reading 20 psi too high. No way my car could run with 40 psi fuel pressure on 47# Injectors. That would be 200% more fuel then stock to idle.
Rising Rate Regulator tuned by using my wideband and EGT datalogging with datalogged boost too.
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Old 10-04-2006, 08:09 AM   #412
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ondonti
Read page 25 where I posted pictures.
Besides what Posted there, I have a 255high pressure walbro and in installed a 5/16" return line so I could achieve lower base fuel pressure with the 255 pump. Stock pump and 1/4" line I could only get down to 26 psi. I think with the 5/16" line it is down to 20 psi using the 255 walbro. My fuel pressure gauge seems to be damaged though and reading 20 psi too high. No way my car could run with 40 psi fuel pressure on 47# Injectors. That would be 200% more fuel then stock to idle.
Rising Rate Regulator tuned by using my wideband and EGT datalogging with datalogged boost too.

so you dont know what your fuel pressure is? thats kinda important for tuning. i may have an extra gauge i would be willing to part w/ for cheap if your interested.
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Old 10-04-2006, 04:22 PM   #413
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m90daytona
so you dont know what your fuel pressure is? thats kinda important for tuning. i may have an extra gauge i would be willing to part w/ for cheap if your interested.
It should be at 20 psi right now. The piece of crap came with a plastic cover that got clouded by gasoline so I had to break off the cover. Then the needle was free to get messed with. Seems it got pushed or hit by something over the last few months.
I need a fuel gauge that can fit into my regulator. I think its 1/4 NPT
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:54 PM   #414
 
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I used this one with my reg. Screwed right into the port:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:16 PM   #415
 
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does it have a plastic face?

the face on mine corroded when gasoline touched it.
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Old 10-04-2006, 08:43 PM   #416
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93sundance
hotter engines are more efficient. Cooler engines often make more power. Especially if the rings are worn.
A hotter engine lasts longer for ring life. For a street car, 180 is the coldest you should go

Congrats on getting the oil issue worked out, can't wait to see fast this baby is. Any dyno plans?
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Old 10-04-2006, 08:52 PM   #417
 
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Well Im pretty sure Im gonna hit the dyno. I missed the whole season of racing so I didnt spend anything on that.
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Old 10-04-2006, 09:23 PM   #418
 
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Originally Posted by Ondonti
Well Im pretty sure Im gonna hit the dyno. I missed the whole season of racing so I didnt spend anything on that.

it is the best way to tune...especially if you ever get that ms up and running.
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Old 10-05-2006, 01:18 AM   #419
 
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Well, I just went for the first real break in.

Let me say I screwed up bad. Something started leaking oil and dumped my oil suppy.

Im sure at least my bearings are toast, maybe the crank too.

BTW, 3rd gear torque steer from wheelspin on only 5 psi boost.
I feel sick now blah.
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Old 10-05-2006, 01:43 AM   #420
 
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wth
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