Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Ondonti]

The best thing about the turbo is it costs about the same as an upgraded Tiny turbo from FWDP or forward motion or TU.

I decided to slow down on my car rebuild. I was trying to finish it today and go on a trip after I seat the rings but thats not going to happen.

I still have a huge list of things to do. Thing that has me most bothered is the body harness. Just found it the one in the car wont plug into the engine bay harness I have. Now I gotta go get the correct body harness.

Still have lots of wiring harness nightmares left. Especially in the engine bay. The 2 harnesses I had for the engine bay are both pretty damaged or hacked up.

[93sundance]

You think there could be excessive turbo lag with that huge hairdryer?

[Ondonti]

No, the turbine is MUCH smaller then my previous turbo.

I think my last Turbo must have had a 1.00 ish a/r. This one is .63 a/r Combined with the heads, cams, bigger displacement, Im actually worried that I will get too much boost in the lower rpms. I really liked the later rpm spool because it meant I had great traction (aka smoother torque increase).

This turbine wheel is technically much bigger though (the last wheel was about the size of a t3 stage V while this wheel is a P trim T4 wheel). That means in the end I might get boost around the same time.

The compressor wheel weighs 1/10th what the exhaust wheel weighs so it has almost Zero influeence on when you start getting boost.
You could theoretically get boost sooner with a larger compressor wheel on the same hot side as a smaller compressor because with the same turbine shaft speed, a smaller compressor would push more air.

[Jetson8294]

Be sure to get lots of Vid's!!! you are my 3.0 god

[jim34]

Looks nice but in the picture it looks like the bowls could have used a lot more work, thats amazing they flowed that much with that step in there. looks like those heads have some serious potential.
you better start stocking up on tranny parts and axles that things gonna rip stuff apart !

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim34 Looks nice but in the picture it looks like the bowls could have used a lot more work, thats amazing they flowed that much with that step in there. looks like those heads have some serious potential. you better start stocking up on tranny parts and axles that things gonna rip stuff apart !

Im not sure what you mean by "step"

The exhaust ports are offset from the factory.
Any more work and you kill the radius coming from the exhaust valve seat + there isnt much room to remove material beyond what I did.

[Ondonti]

According to FRANK these heads have NO potencial either. That is why he scraped his 3.0 project. He wanted a fake 300cfm NEON head......which only flows 315 cfm if you lift to 600" which is a joke since stock lift is 350" and I doubt anyone will lift past .400-450" on those heads.
Also they only have 4 cylinders moving that air rather then 6.

[Ondonti]

If I work on the car tomorrow and get body work done I might be able to start her up and take her out to seat the rings.

[jim34]

I just meant from the picture it looks like theres a sharp angle on the short side radious in the exhaust port, i dont know if it is just the pic

[Ondonti]

Nope, thats just because of the angle I took the picture.
There is a nice radius on the short side. I would have removed more but Ed caution'd against it and Im glad he did.

When my machinist did the 5 angle valve job it actually messed up the short side radius I did so i had them fix it.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti According to FRANK these heads have NO potencial either. That is why he scraped his 3.0 project. He wanted a fake 300cfm NEON head......which only flows 315 cfm if you lift to 600" which is a joke since stock lift is 350" and I doubt anyone will lift past .400-450" on those heads. Also they only have 4 cylinders moving that air rather then 6.

Yup, I was left wondering "what is he THINKING?!?"

Looks like I can get stock valved head to just a little over 200 CFM... With oversized valves, he should easily eclipse the total CFM of the Neon heads...

Given his propensity for over the top I was suprised he didn't go with a 4-valve/cyl V6 like the 3.8L...

[Ondonti]

Yes.

at .400" lift I get 210 cfm. 210x6=1260

at .400" lift he gets 287cfm 287x4 1148

Plus, I have less HP/cylinder, and the v6 block is stronger then the 4 cylinder blocks when it comes to cylinder flex. Stephane has to partially fill his coolant passages to make the same specific output as our bone stock block v6 makes when bored .150" over. hehe.

he also has to run a longer rod setup because of the crappy rod ratio.

[moorepowercoati]

What is a safe overbore of the 3.0?

[Reaper1]

I've read somewhere that it can be taken as much as .060", but I'd say that depends on the block. Have it tested before going that big.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by moorepowercoati What is a safe overbore of the 3.0?

My overbore is +.096" I was going to go bigger but that was the only size I could get the rings I wanted.


If your motor doesnt have any core shift, you can bore larger then .150" if you stay NA

There are 800hp people running .150" overbore.

People using that "dont bore past .060"" stuff are telling you waht most motors accept, but not using actual 6g72 applications.

Technically you could overbore .200" since we have .300" wall thickness (if you had no core shift).

.100" thick walls are "thick" by todays standards. Many engines come from the factory today with thinner walls and weaker blocks.
Now, the price of the pistons to overbore that much is A LOT and probably not worth it. If you spend that much on pistons, go with a smaller overbore (like .100" overbore) and go turbo.