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04-26-2007, 09:40 PM
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#811
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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This is a double entendre
Anyways you guys suck with spamming this thread :P
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04-26-2007, 09:48 PM
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#812
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Here...
My Ride: 92 White IROC RT
Engine: 2.2 L T-3
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Ondonti
This is a double entendre
Anyways you guys suck with spamming this thread :P
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spamming FTW! 
__________________
Cory Hedin
I have a running T3 car! Woot! How did that happen!?
-92' White IROC RT PVP Pilot Car <---- page newly updated.
-87' Daytona Shelby Z W/ T tops <---- page under construction :D
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04-27-2007, 04:29 PM
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#813
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Going to pull the valve covers and I forgot....
Well the stupid new serp tensioner on the duster is a 15mm and my 15mm offset doesnt reach very far plus the 14mm end hits the strut tower...so...

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04-27-2007, 04:31 PM
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#814
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
My Ride: 93 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.208
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cool idea
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04-27-2007, 05:20 PM
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#815
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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should have welded it on the other side. Oh well its good enough.
Nothing wrong under the valve covers that I could find. One of the lifters is sort of pumped up and the rest are still "soggy"
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04-27-2007, 07:12 PM
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#816
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: 1993 Dodge Shadow ES
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 15.680
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Crank it up and let it run until it is warmed up, then let it run some more and see what happens to the noise.
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04-27-2007, 10:14 PM
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#817
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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ran the car for a couple minutes..oil pressure dropped down as the oil warmed up
still making the same sounds. Pushing in the clutch made no difference so its not the trans.
The V-band leaks pretty bad..I think its because its not seating right on the crappy v-band adapter I made for my turbo.
I actually reved the thing up to 5-6k on a smaller video I made but the audio quality cant pick up how awesome it sounds.
Im scared to drive the car...I cant really "drive it" since I have to seat the rings so I will just have to slam gas and then decel over and over.
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04-27-2007, 11:11 PM
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#818
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: High Ridge MO
My Ride: 1993 Iroc Daytona
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Seems like this time its best to take your time and be patient with it...that is check everything and double check everything before hand so you dont end up in the same boat again.
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04-28-2007, 10:25 PM
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#819
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Talked to mike for awhile. Comparing the new videos with the old. No clack in the old videos.
Going to add some lifter shim back in and see how that works out.
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04-28-2007, 10:49 PM
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#820
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: 1993 Dodge Shadow ES
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 15.680
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Here's a suggestion :
Put in a set of stock cams and stock lifters and get it running like that, then once you're sure everything is ok, then you can go back and put the big cams in.
But if you've changed the installed height of the valves, this might not work.
It sounds like the whole lifter shim thing is purely a guess. Change the shims until the noise stops, then it must be right, etc.
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04-29-2007, 02:05 AM
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#821
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Tim_K
Here's a suggestion :
Put in a set of stock cams and stock lifters and get it running like that, then once you're sure everything is ok, then you can go back and put the big cams in.
But if you've changed the installed height of the valves, this might not work.
It sounds like the whole lifter shim thing is purely a guess. Change the shims until the noise stops, then it must be right, etc.
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Cant change the cams with my longer valves.
As noted, thee was no valvetrain clatter previously.
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04-29-2007, 02:15 AM
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#822
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
My Ride: 92 Dodge Spirit
Engine: 10:1 3.0 5 speed
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.990
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did you change anything with the heads when you took it out?
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04-29-2007, 02:44 AM
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#823
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Like i said a few pages, ago, I removed the shims I had in the lifters. Im gonna put them back since that is the one thing I know I purposely changed.
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04-29-2007, 06:42 AM
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#824
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
My Ride: '88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Might be a dumb comment, but are you aware that lifters tend to wear into their bores, so you need to stick 'em back in the same places they came from. Also there's that trick for making sure they get pumped up and flushed out okay, where you run the engine warm, then do 30 secs at 3000, drop to idle for 15 secs, 30 secs at 3000, drop to idle 15 secs, and repeat 5-10 times.
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04-29-2007, 05:14 PM
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#825
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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I dont believe that is the correct trick.
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spaceman, comp
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