Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Ondonti]

my battery is a sealed lead acid battery. NOT serviceable etc.
Had some problems with the charger faulting. after resetting it a few times the fault is flashing but its charging on the lowest amperage. Supposedly with fault its not supposed to charge but I read ~14.8 volts across the battery terminals with my ohmmeter so Its doing something.

I will see in the morning. The price of these batteries has gone up significantly since I bought one in 2005. Not to happy about that. I just love them because it fits inside the fender :P

[Dusty_Duster]

You got it running? Sweeeeeeet. I love boost.

[Shadow24V]

videos? *drool*

[Reaper1]

I'm using an Odyssey PC680. It works GREAT! I got mine for about $110 IIRC...

[m90daytona]

what is your afr under boost? i am curious...maybe i will set my afr map for autotune in megasquirt to the number that your seeing if the car is running good...

[Ondonti]

Well, My base regulator is having some problems on the gauge. I dropped fuel pressure down to 31ish psi base on 30# injectors.

I really dont know where the RRR "rate" dial is turned to but on my romp around the block it was running mid 11's on the wideband. (wow lucky! lol). I can look at my datalogs again. I dont really trust 2nd gear numbers for anything except to figure out when lower gear boost will happen (based upon previous experiences with stock fuel pump where 2nd gear tuning pulls were fine but in 4th gear takes "too long" to get through and a little hiccup from the pump = yay. Actually it also blew a ringland in 2nd gear after it was done tuning but never showed any complaints before that. stupid fuel pumps.
It was pegging the 10.00 last time I drove it in the fall. I think the base fuel pressure was higher then but the gauge was "more" messed up then. The rate setting is the same as it was before...my base pressure before might have accidentally been 40psi which is WAY to high on 30# injectors.
I really need to replace the gauge but at this point Im more interested in the a/f then whatever the fuel gauge says. When I turn into m90daytona and figure out the MS Im gonna get another base regulator and donate the RRR combo to the "daily driver" project that Im sure I will never finish.

[Ondonti]

well that battery wont charge. I bought a new one. Not happy about that. $100 but not much I can do. The car is basically not going anywhere till I get the battery. Its shipping from Denver so thats only 1 state away. Hopefully there are no problems.

[Ondonti]

Almost bought an alky kit tonight but I ended up not actually buying it because the pump was not going to push how much I wanted.

One of those devils own progressive kits. Im gonna call tomorrow I think and upgrade to the 100watt pump.
I wanted to spray about 200hp worth of methanol but looks like i be pushing more like 100.
For starters Im gonna mount a 3gph nozzle in the the air intake pipe (before the turbo) then mount the 7 and 12 gph nozzles (that come with the kit) in the IC piping about 2 feet before the TB.

THen i will see how far I can stretch the 100w pump.
I would guess using 3 14gph nozzles would put less strain on the pump because it can flow more at less pressure.

[Ntrain2k]

It might flow more, but I would check the atomization...

[Ondonti]

Trevor is spraying 1500cc's of meth on his dohc 3.0 a few inches from his TB and he is making 600whp reliably. His log manifold might help a little bit compared to our goofy plenum.

I plan on combining this with my custom intake manifold.

I really do feel that the alky will disperse well....much better then nitrous does on an n/a car. Instead of having nitrous freeze the air and then attempting to make fuel atomize in this frigid air, I have a hairdryer pumping out fairly hot air. This leads me to believe I can get away with some alky on the stock manifold.
The stock manifold tends to run the rear cylinders lean under boost so I wont worry if I get a little extra meth in the rear cylinders. Anyways I really doubt Ill get it installed soon :P

Just finished some school work and now Im going to bed for a few hours Hopefully i made some sense.

Edit: oh, and maybe I understand what you meant now ron. i remember someone saying they were using two smaller nozzles instead of 1 large because atomization was better.......so that can shoot my idea in the foot if thats how it will work out. Probably just depends how much pressure drops off. I will think about this more when i dont need to sleep.

[Ondonti]

Got my battery today and also picked up some open ended lug nuts (lighter and they are required when you run slicks or a spacer on the hub).
Picked up some more parts for my custom intake manifold.

Also picked up a non airbag steering wheel for my duster. Found it in a 4 banger shadow ES.

Update: battery installed. car started up on its own power for the first time. Yay. Im gonna swap in the new steering wheel now (well I hope it fits :P )

[Ondonti]

Took the car out for its first 20 miles of real breakin.
This car is disgustingly fast for ~5.5psi boost.
after doing about 20 hard wot/decels in 3rd gear (a couple in second) on a long deserted road (housing complex that will get built in the future) and also doing lots of accell/decel before I got there.....I pulled out onto the highway that leads home and decided to do a little 2nd gear through 4th gear run. One problem i noticed is that I CAN NOT short shift or boost will fall off. When I went from 3rd to 4th (I wasnt really hammering it in 2nd or 3rd 4th gear dropped down to 3000 rpms on my tach and boost dropped a little bit.

The sound this car makes when it spools up is great. sounds like one of those open header v8's going around a short circle track but with a nice scream to go along with it.

The car seems to be running a bit lean (low,mid, and high 12's) but some of this is caused because i was part throttle in some runs

Here is an example run im looking at...there is SOOOO much here in this datalog (its 23 minutes long) but i wish I had hooked up the TPS so i could see throttle voltage and correlate that with AFR's

This particular WOT run I have on the screen right now is low 12's (others are mid 11's etc) on the air fuel ratio
rpms got up to 4900rpms when I let off. Boost was 5.5psi at that RPM and EGT was 777 Celsius (1430 F)

Speedometer is sticking @ 25-35mph so its hard to let anyone get an idea of how fast the car is.
After the fist 20 miles the car still likes to burn oil (when you decel after WOT it pulls oil up into the cyilnders but also gets into the chambers, fouls the plugs and makes the engine want to die).

Also i noticed that when it was idling @1000 rpms AFTER my little trip, the Vacuum was only like 8inches. the engine died (plugs wet). I restarted it and then the engine decided it was going to idle @ 1700 rpms or so.
I thougth this was neat because the 7:1 compression motor was pulling 18" vacuum with those cams. I guess when it warms up the cams are just too lopy for it to have any vacuum @ idle.

Remember My base airpressure here is MINUS 4.6inhg today when I was testing so 8-4.6=3.4inhg and at 1700 rpms it was about 13.4inhg.
My boost actually reads 3.5ish psi but you have to add on about 2 psi because of the high elevation (4.6inhg is about equal to 2.2 psi).

[Ondonti]

i made a dyno appointment for next wednesday. Hopefully school does not interfere.
I am more interested in the HP curve (what it looks like) then the peak hp.
I will have to remember to install the 5 speed ECU so i can get a few more RPMS on the dyno.
I want to see if power is climbing @ 6k or dropping off.

I am also thinking I want to buy a full exhaust and another ultraflow muffler. Sounds cool but it hurts my ears even with 1 ultraflow.

[DustyR/T]

sick Brent. Can't wait to see what it does.

[irocelectric93]

No crazy sticky issues yet...sounds like more tuning and stuff to do. Good luck on the dyne brent