Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[Reaper1]

I kow they're a little more expensive, but try to get a Borla XR-1 muffler. I just got one and it is beeter built and lighter than the Magnaflow stuff, PLUS the inards are stainless, no blowing the fiberglass out! I've heard these before and they sounds REALLY nice.

Good luck, be sure to post the results!

[Ondonti]

Got any pics of it??
its just a straight through right?

The circle track v8 sound is not good on the ears.

[Ondonti]

Well when i changed the oil i decided to pull the plugs and check them out. They were all very black. #4 was sorta "goopy" and this is a cylinder which I had problems with previously. #1 was also a little bit wet but it looked more like gasoline.
Remember this is a 7:1 motor with fairly big cams
#4 was higher (122) when I first tested. I tested it again thinking if the lifters got more "pumped" then the cam overlap would bleed off more pressure. So these are basically the lowest numbers I got. Could be that some lifters are more pumped then others at the moment. Cant really tell.
Did a compression test.
Front Cam bank
#2 112psi
#4 118psi
#6 115psi
Rear Cam bank
#1 85psi
#3 98psi
#5 100psi

I checked the cam timing and it was correct.
I think with having my cam journal ground in the front head and that head getting an extra resurfacing that the rear cam is a little bit off from the front cam.
This is my assumption why the rear cylinders are lower then the front. #1 cylinder worries me a bit but not so much since all of them are low in the rear.

So I may need some sort of adjustable cam gears...maybe. Dont know if KMP ever decided on making them.

[Reaper1]

Check with RPW. My car has one of the very first sets they ever produced on it. I don't know if they still make them, but they did. I beleive Gary Donovan used to also make them at Relentless, but he is no longer in buisness. IIRC the gear part is the same as the 2.2/2.5, but the hub is different. You *might* be able to get FWD to make you a one off set, but it'll be expensive $$$.

As for the Borla, yes, it is straight through. There is a perforated metal baffel in the middleshaped like a V, but it's installed to where you're looking at it on edge from the exhaust's point of view.

[Ondonti]

that sounds weird with the muffler. pics! :P

I thought gary never actually made the 3.0 gears he just hinted at maybe doing it.
I thought the RPW's were VERY expensive and I dont think they make them anymore.

Maybe not so bad..
Racing Performance Works - Mitsubishi 6G72 SOHC 12v

about $210 in USD then I would have to somehow import them.

I sent an email to tearstone.com to see if they can get this for me.

Here is video of the car before I went out for my 20 or so mile drive to seat the rings.
Video - Ready to drive the car its first 20 miles of breakin.

[Ntrain2k]

How did you drive it to break the rings in? It could be the rear bank isn't seated as good as the front bank yet. 20-30 hard pulls from around 20 to 60 in 3rd gear then immediatly off the gas to engine brake usually works good.

Thoughts are oil mist coating the rear cyl walls more than the front because of acceleration..

[Reaper1]

OK OK!! I'll get a picture or two of the Borla!

As for RPW, they do ship to the US, but there WAS a shop in Cali I thought that was a distributor for them here in the US. Phantom used to be, but I don't know if they're still areound, and I always thought they were kinda shady...

[Shadow24V]

NICE sounds like you stuffed a v8 in it when it idles.

got a question though, how much room is there behind the stock instrument pannel? im thinking of going all aftermarket gauges as a panel replacement.

cant wait for the full throttle acceleration videos

[Tim_K]

Quote:

Thoughts are oil mist coating the rear cyl walls more than the front because of acceleration..

That makes no sense. With the crank and rods spinning around in there the oil isn't going to have time to worry about which way the block is accelerating all around it.

Looking forward to seeing some more action videos!

Better start keeping more than 1/8 tank of fuel in it, I've burned up several fuel pumps by consistently running them below 1/4 tank of gas.

[RoadWarrior222]

Well the ghetto way of adjusting your cams is to take a spare tensioner or water pump gear and fab a bracket and deflect the belt either between cams or on the cam-crank side.... might need to go a tooth either way with either cam to get that right. About half an inch deflection midway between cam and crank is half a tooth worth.... that's just ballpark figuring, you need to calculate it "just so". But with an extra tensioner, and degree wheels, you can set it just right, if you know what right is. If you're close to half a tooth either way though you might run out of belt slack.

I've got a scheme for "on the fly" cam advance and retard but it won't go on my 3.0 for a good while, building that to be interference, so will be experimenting on a non-interference SOHC 4 banger first.

[Ntrain2k]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K That makes no sense. With the crank and rods spinning around in there the oil isn't going to have time to worry about which way the block is accelerating all around it.

You would be surprised.....

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ntrain2k How did you drive it to break the rings in? It could be the rear bank isn't seated as good as the front bank yet. 20-30 hard pulls from around 20 to 60 in 3rd gear then immediatly off the gas to engine brake usually works good. Thoughts are oil mist coating the rear cyl walls more than the front because of acceleration..

This is exactly what I did for seating.
Ive got 30 minutes of datalogging of it all too.

The plugs all look decent..

Plug #1 which had the lowest compression was sort of wet with fuel and had less burned oil caked on then the other plugs.
#4 had the most oil caked on and had the highest compression....this just makes me think that there is more oil in that cylinder falsely helping the compression tests.

What I find interesting is that Im not getting blowbye on the rear valvecover. Even though the motor is still burning oil im not getting oil spatter out of the valve cover when boosting. I know some tired n/a engines love to spit up oil through that breather, especially with boost.

--------
My biggest concern is that the rear cylinders will not seat "as well" as the front cylinders if there is a cam timing issue......

But I sort of assume that when I am in boost those rear cylinders are seeing more pressure they they would n/a even with the cams leaking off pressure.

The engine is very rough until the boost comes on and then the engine behaves very smoothly (no breakup etc).

[Ntrain2k]

Is it possible that the rear cam might be off a tooth?

[Ondonti]

Nope, That was the first thing I checked when I got the test results.

[Dusty_Duster]

That car sounds SLICK at idle. Sucks about the smoke, though.