Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched)

[lookin]

My understanding is that on a stock 3.0, the front cylinders and heads tend to have problems more often than the rear, and the cam timing, I think it is, differs front and rear.

Could it be that, since your motor is ON CRACK , then you just have common 3.0 problems which are now a bit "amplified", and so you need to compensate somehow?

Must be damn cool to have a 3.0 which may have acceleration G FORCE adversely affecting oiling!

[Reaper1]

The problems you are reffering to anly apply to the SOHC 24V engines. Their cams are phased a few degrees differently. Their aftermarket offerings take care of this.

[Ondonti]

Well i am going to pick up a degree kit.
If I get gears I need it anyways.

With this I will at least be able to solve the question in my mind about cam timing.
but dang wish it was cheaper :P

[lookin]

OK Reaper1. Thanks for telling me.

[Tim_K]

I've seen adjustable cam gears with 3, 4, or even 5 bolts, but I have a hard time believing that the friction from tightening down 3-5 bolts in a slot is enough to hold the cam timing setting for long, much less tens of thousands of miles. Maybe I'm wrong. Who has set their adjustable cam gears, tightened down the bolts, checked them 10,000 miles later, and they had not slipped AT ALL?

Ondonti, how's it going with tuning the new setup? Have those rings seated yet? If they are moly rings they should be seated fairly quickly.

[RoadWarrior222]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Well i am going to pick up a degree kit. If I get gears I need it anyways.

Or print and paste from here.... Mark Langford's KR2S Engine

Doubt any motor has so little slop that having a fancy metal one that reads to half a degree is gonna make any real difference when everything else probably makes it +/- 1 degree accuracy. More accuracy probably comes from consistancy in use, avoiding parallax, stuff like that.

[Ondonti]

not sure about that borla muffler. I already have 1 glass muffler on the car nearer to the turbo.
I dont really want the magnaflow so I will probably buy another ultraflo. I just am not so happy about spending so much money because I need to buy a tow dolly and somehow get someone to do a class 3 hitch on my spirit.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K I've seen adjustable cam gears with 3, 4, or even 5 bolts, but I have a hard time believing that the friction from tightening down 3-5 bolts in a slot is enough to hold the cam timing setting for long, much less tens of thousands of miles. Maybe I'm wrong. Who has set their adjustable cam gears, tightened down the bolts, checked them 10,000 miles later, and they had not slipped AT ALL? Ondonti, how's it going with tuning the new setup? Have those rings seated yet? If they are moly rings they should be seated fairly quickly.

Chrome top rings that are gapless.

Some people use locktight on the cam gear bolts. works great

I havent driven the car since the compression test.

[Reaper1]

I understand about the $$$ thing! The Borla is more money, but I think it's a better product. However, for your application the other should be fine. I'll still post pics though...

[Ondonti]

Cam gears ended up being 325 dollars. ick.
Thats $115 over the listed price (about 210 USD). I guess they might show up next month.
After spending that much on cam gears I sorta want a borla lol.
So today I picked up..

RPW cam gears
Comp cams degree kit
TU 3" exhaust
4x 3" band clamps
Borla xr-1 3" muffler (talked into by chris)

Didnt get my alky kit cause I couldnt get a hold of the devils own guy when he was available.
I am going with the 100w pump (normal is the 60w).

[Ondonti]

Well I was messing with the spark plugs.

I let it run for 2 minutes. Stopped it. pulled #1 plug. It was very wet.
Pulled #3 and it was slightly wet but it had already gotten carbon buildup.
Looks like #1 was not igniting.
SO. I pulled #1 and #3 again and put them on the intake manifold, plugged in the spark plug boots, then I unplugged the injector harness.

Turned the motor over and both seem to be sparking. My issue is that while I was testing this the engine decided to start (on 4 cylinders). and run. the injectors were not plugged in. It eventualy died. Then it willl sorta want to run again.

Keep in mind that this is on 4 cylinders with no injector harness plugged in.

So, Instead of finding that maybe I could get lucky and find that #1 was not sparking, I just found out that somethign else is misbehaving.

[Ondonti]

Motor starts with fuel injectors not plugged in.

[DustyR/T]

c'mon Brent, get the kinks worked out so you can get some dyno time. We really want to see what it can do..

[Ondonti]

A few people have the idea that the fuel regulator is leaking into the vacuum port. it WAS doing this when I backed out the base rate set screw to much when I was messing with fuel pressure. I didnt think it was still doing that.
I havent tested it yet but I was thinking.........#1 cylinder has its intake manifold entrance right next to the vacuum line that is probably leaking fuel.

This would probably be why cylinder #1 did not seal the first 20 miles because that plug is just fouling out.

Anyways its nice to have some more ideas about what is probably going on.

If thats the case then Im gonna remove the regulator (BEGI mr2035) and send it off to mr corky bell for a rebuild.

It always worked great before this current project :P
This would mean i was basically running on 5 cylinders and the car was still insane :P

[m90daytona]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti A few people have the idea that the fuel regulator is leaking into the vacuum port. it WAS doing this when I backed out the base rate set screw to much when I was messing with fuel pressure. I didnt think it was still doing that. I havent tested it yet but I was thinking.........#1 cylinder has its intake manifold entrance right next to the vacuum line that is probably leaking fuel. This would probably be why cylinder #1 did not seal the first 20 miles because that plug is just fouling out. Anyways its nice to have some more ideas about what is probably going on. If thats the case then Im gonna remove the regulator (BEGI mr2035) and send it off to mr corky bell for a rebuild. It always worked great before this current project :P This would mean i was basically running on 5 cylinders and the car was still insane :P

before you get the begi unit rebuilt try putting a vacuum pump to it. if it is leaking then it will pull gasoline into the pump. you can get one pretty cheap at any parts store.