Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched) - Page 7 - TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

**c2xejk** · 07-16-2006, 06:40 AM

You can pull the lifters/rockers without redoing the timing belt... The trick is to apply tension to the timing sprocket when you unbolt the rocker assembly...

This assumes that you can get access to the cam sprocket. The front head is easy. The rear head is more difficult...

Ondonti · 07-17-2006, 10:47 AM

I dont have a/c so its pretty easy.

One thing I just remembered when talking to mike this morning......

I only need to shim 66% of the cam diameter change. OOOOOOPS.

ARGGGGG

Ondonti · 07-17-2006, 01:08 PM

BTW I dont understand what is ment by applying tension to the timing sprocket..........

Ondonti · 07-17-2006, 04:20 PM

Okay, i did some measuring with feeler gauges.

stock cam is ~ .109" tall at the bottom of base circle. My cam is ~.054" from bottom of base circle.

.055" removed
.055*.66 (adjusting for rocker ratio)=.0363" thick needed for washers. Im gonna go shopping for washers now.

P.S. I removed the rocker arm assembly without doign the timing belt. the front cam popped up a little bit but I can just push it back down. The rear cam didnt pop up at all because the timing belt has less leverage on the shorter cam (I think).

**c2xejk** · 07-17-2006, 08:30 PM

The ratio is the other way around... The valve end moves more than the cam end of the rocker...

Ondonti · 07-18-2006, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk

The ratio is the other way around... The valve end moves more than the cam end of the rocker...

I think you need to check my math again. We have a stock cam lift of .212".
Valve lift (after 1.5 ratio) of .350" lift.

I lost .055" material on the cam and since I am re-adding thickness on the valve side of the rocker, I only need to add 66% of the cam height loss. 0.363"

Even if I add the correct thickness washer, the fact that they are flat means I would get too much lift.

I was previously adding .067" thickness to the rocker side, which equals .100" on the cam side. oops.

**c2xejk** · 07-18-2006, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

I think you need to check my math again. We have a stock cam lift of .212".
Valve lift (after 1.5 ratio) of .350" lift.

Ok, here you have the ratio in the correct direction.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

I lost .055" material on the cam and since I am re-adding thickness on the valve side of the rocker, I only need to add 66% of the cam height loss. 0.363"

Think about this again. If the valve side of the rocker moves more, then you have to add more to that side...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

Even if I add the correct thickness washer, the fact that they are flat means I would get too much lift.

No disagreement that you need a curved washer...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

I was previously adding .067" thickness to the rocker side, which equals .100" on the cam side. oops.

Think about that again...

Ondonti · 03:11 PM

.067" does not close the valves
All that matters is that the valves close.

I have no idea why they dont close at .067" shimming since that should be lower then the needed shimming.

I am going to check the diameters of the cam NOT AT THE Lobes to see if the mitsu cam was caste thicker then the chryco cam.

DOH.........I just remembered my valves are longer then stock....oops. I told my machinist I was already going to need to shim the lifters.

I may not need to shim at all..........ARGE. My machinist may have tried to idiot proof my motor and then here came super brent to foul it up.

Ntrain2k · 07-18-2006, 07:40 PM

Heh!

Super Brent...

mightymulhern · 07-18-2006, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

I may not need to shim at all..........ARGE. My machinist may have tried to idiot proof my motor and then here came super brent to foul it up.

Look there! Out on the Street!

It's a Duster!

It's a Spirit!

It's Super Brent!

*plays theme song*

Ondonti · 07-18-2006, 11:51 PM

crappy.

Well using the smallest shim I have which gives .046" lift increase (the actual washer is not this thick) I still got intake backfire. I am going to remove the washers and run just the stock lifters.

Ondonti · 07-19-2006, 06:11 PM

Well I put it together, no shims, still backfires in the intake.

I am a little bit confused. going to check the can timing and make sure the distributor is right.

I get the feeling the distributor is off one tooth (im not sure how this is possible since it previously started). The car hardly wants to turn over.....if I advance the timing all the way to the left it turns over faster..........

Ondonti · 07-19-2006, 06:58 PM

Well I just spent 5 minutes pulling a few things apart. It looks like my distributor is off for some reason........I cant understand why since the car ran once and I havent touch the distributor.

I lined the front cam up and the dist aint pointing to the #1 contact

Ondonti · 07-19-2006, 07:19 PM

If the motor runs when I feel like trying again, then I probably can shim the lifters back up. I feel pretty stupid. Im not sure how it ran for 10 seconds....

Ondonti · 09:30 PM

Well I got it to start for like 2 seconds........I think it might need those shims :P It sound really high pitched.