Pretty sure that what is really wrong with my shifting is the pressure plate. When I did a 1-2-1 shift 2 track visits ago, I probably damaged the straps on the pressure plate so the center friction surface is no longer centered properly. Reason why this was not obvious to figure out is that I never did a high rpm shift EVER on that transmission (temporary replacement) or clutch (new 3 puck disc) until i was at the track. I think that my 1-2 was a successful high rpm shift because the slicks were spinning in 2nd gear the moment I shifted (not hooking up so great). Its all very foggy what happened on that run because I was more interested in the miss-shift then what had happened previously.
I went shopping for one today on the internet.Interesting to note because I didnt remember...that the T1 and 3.0 Pressure plates's are the same.
TII and TIII PP's are a different part number (stronger also).
So I am getting a clutchnet 2x TIII pressure plate ( I would have mistakenly ordered a weaker 3.0 pressure plate).
Basically they modify it by machining the lever point on the friction surface so it is closer the the pivot point

This gives more clamping force
According to the guy I called, its +40% give or take.
So this is basically a replacement for my Sachs pressure plate from Eurodrive that I damaged.
I did NOT want to go with a dual diaphram pressure plate from FWDP or TU because they have less clamping force (about 2100 compared to 2400) and they require MORE pedal effort then the single diaphragm pressure plate I am buying which holds stronger!!!!!
I have already had a pressure plate like this one and I like it so I feel good about buying this. I was stressing out while "shopping" because I like what I have and TD vendors dont seem to sell strong single diaphragm pressure plates unless you want a $300+ spec unit which I have never seen a picture of before and I almost bet it is the same as I am buying (stock t3 modded to hold more) but with the spec name.