Finished!! Forged piston block, Custom valve head (flowbenched) - Page 83 - TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

Domino81 · 02-01-2008, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DustyR/T

Definitely need to make a video like that in the daytime so it can be seen easier.

+1 pweeze!

Ondonti · 02-02-2008, 01:03 AM

Or at least some black and white filming. I tried lightening things and that didnt accomplish anything except making the blacks darker :P

I know how to do a little photoshop to fix dark pics but dark video I dont have the stuff or know if its possible (to equalze color table etc).

Im not even in utah right now and I think there is a ton of snow there to deal with lol. My friend in north utah has like 6 feet in his front yard.

I think when I get back I will be more concentrated on working on Megasquirt and doing a few other things....

Ondonti · 03-24-2008, 04:18 PM

Well, freeze plug popped while I was out of town.
Its one of the ones located between the engine block and transmission bellhousing so I have to pull the motor again.

Yay

**c2xejk** · 03-24-2008, 06:16 PM

Wonder what the odds are that the block also cracked... I take it that it just had water in the cooling system.

lookin · 03-24-2008, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti

Well, freeze plug popped while I was out of town.
Its one of the ones located between the engine block and transmission bellhousing so I have to pull the motor again.

Yay

Oh nooo!

I sure hope your block is OK.

Ondonti · 03-24-2008, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk

Wonder what the odds are that the block also cracked... I take it that it just had water in the cooling system.

Water and water wetter as per rules of the race class I was to participate in. Didnt remember to drain it until the last minute when I was leaving the state and wasnt able to do it.
The race class is canceled now and so is at least the freeze plug.

Water absolutely pours out so whatever happened happened big time. I mostly get pissed cause I hate draining the transmission oil over and over again when it only has a few miles on it.

**mopar3.0** · 03-24-2008, 07:40 PM

i had a block freeze soild before too, didnt split anything, but the 300.000km timming belt broke on the frozen water pump lol

Ondonti · 03-24-2008, 07:42 PM

This is actually the 2nd time it froze/ First time it froze and the timing belt was slidding on the waterpump. I put a propane torch on the water pump to unfreeze it. That was last december and the car "ran fine" after that ordeal when bansheenut was visiting. I forgot to take the water out so I could either leave it empty or put antifreeze in. I was a bit to freaked out about finals.

Shadow24V · 03-24-2008, 08:34 PM

that sucks. hope you get that beast on the road for the summer. Im hoping to make it to the big SDAC meeting thingy this summer, and it'd be cool to run against you

Ondonti · 03-25-2008, 04:05 AM

Pulled the T67 turbo and I think it needs new seals.
Dry on the inlet flange and wet everywhere else inside.

Ondonti · 03-25-2008, 04:28 PM

Also thinking I might want to replace the valve seals because when the motor an dry on oil long ago I didnt replace them. Not sure if its something necessary to do. I think I will drop by the machine shop and ask them if nobody has a good opinion on that.

If it was something I should do, Im not sure if I want to remove the heads and do the valve seals or try to do them without removing the heads. I dont know what kind of spring compressor to buy to do them with the heads on the motor. its really easy with the heads off but I dont want to remove the heads if possible.

Ondonti · 09:10 PM

Talked to some people today. The turbo seals are good. Probably blowbye in the crankcase pressurizing the turbo through the drain and forcing oil out.

Went to my machine shop to ask them if it was worth it to take apart the motor and let them look at the valve seals etc. Im just going to take apart the whole motor and let them look at it.

If its simply an issue of the rings letting oil past then I will just ignore it....get better a/f ratios at idle so it starts up better without fouling..........and contemplate if I want to blow the heck out of the motor

I will be buying an exhaust crankcase evacuation kit Moroso 25900 - Moroso Crankcase Evacuation Systems - summitracing.com as a bandaid.

The turbo shop said I needed to relieve more crankcase pressure so the turbo is happy so thats what I will be doing.

Reaper1 · 03-29-2008, 02:05 PM

Yeah, the stock crankcase vent system on the SOHC 3.0 SUCKS for boost. There is NO WAY it flows enough to get rid of any sort of blow-by coming from boost.

You may want to look in to the exhaust slash-cut system, or if you have the resources, some sort of actual pump(what I personally want to do).

Ondonti · 03-29-2008, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1

Yeah, the stock crankcase vent system on the SOHC 3.0 SUCKS for boost. There is NO WAY it flows enough to get rid of any sort of blow-by coming from boost.

You may want to look in to the exhaust slash-cut system, or if you have the resources, some sort of actual pump(what I personally want to do).

I already bought the slashcut kit from moroso.
Its in the mail along with a trick flow fuel pressure regulator for when I run MS.

I am going to run 1 slashcut exhaust pipe for each valvecover.

Reaper1 · 03-29-2008, 02:29 PM

I know you have large exhaust, but I dunno if I'd do that. I think *2* slashes in the pipe cold be a restriction. Besides, if they work propperly it's been proven that they can actually provide TOO much suction! LOL They have regualtors for that, but I think that as long as you get it to work right, then one will be sufficient for both banks...