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09-08-2006, 05:34 PM
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#1
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Intake Spacers
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: High Ridge MO
My Ride: 1993 Iroc Daytona
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Anyone know where to get some? Josh was going to sell me his but apparently some other guy wanted em before i did...GRR. So the question is where can i get some other ones? Or make my own? I know they are made from like Garolite...
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09-08-2006, 05:38 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NE OH
My Ride: 1990 Daytona ES
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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http://www.cheetahonline.com/g1012.html
dunno if he still makes them, worth a try
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09-08-2006, 11:23 PM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Port Richey FL
My Ride: 94 Plymouth Duster
Engine: 6g72 181c.i.d.
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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I purchased the same spacers only 1". And I had to drill out the holes to make them fit and purchase my own new bolts. It sucks, but they seemed to make a difference.
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09-09-2006, 12:07 AM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by DustyR/T
I purchased the same spacers only 1". And I had to drill out the holes to make them fit and purchase my own new bolts. It sucks, but they seemed to make a difference.
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Yeah it sucks real hard. I paid like $90 for half finished junk. I finally had 7/8 inch ones cut in aluminum. They don't need to be made of a thermal insulator. Your plenum will heat soak from engine compartment heat anyway. My point is that the real reason spacers work is overlooked, being displaced by "cooler plenum" hype. Pure rubbish.
Last edited by NA2ndgen : 09-09-2006 at 12:19 AM.
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09-09-2006, 04:44 AM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.700
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Only thing they are good for is reversing the plenum. :P
I have a set that is about 5 years old and they are apparently better quality.
I call him Paul Stealabile after he screwed me on a Fidanza flywheel.
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09-09-2006, 02:51 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
My Ride: 93 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.208
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Originally Posted by NA2ndgen
The spacers he sold me were just plain junk, and the bolts he included in "the kit" had SAE threads. The spacers were not even flat parallel top and bottom. He refused to answer my emails about my wanting to return them, and so I never did get a refund. I would pass on cheateronline.
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I have heard alot of bad things about Paul berkibile and his business. I bought a motor from him a few years ago that turned out to be junk. I got alot of my money back for it, but still I wasted alot of time and gas when I drove from Grand Rapids to Chicago. I havent had a problem with the parts he makes though.
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09-09-2006, 02:54 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
My Ride: 93 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.208
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Originally Posted by NA2ndgen
He zapped you for an expensive part like that?! How does he keep getting away with it? Maybe he should rename his site cheatya online.
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A few years ago, alot of people were buying his 1" spacers. They aren't worth the money unless you absolutely need them to reverse the plenum.
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09-09-2006, 04:58 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
My Ride: '88 Plymouth Voyager
Engine: 3.0 V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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I'm going to try cutting spacers from oak. I was going to try using Exterior Grade MDF, but I can't find any anywhere. Exterior Grade MDF uses same class of adhesive as most "Phenolic" spacers, which are usually layered cotton or paper to make up the bulk, so I figure sawdust instead don't make a hell of a lot of difference, unless you really need the mechanical strength in the plane of the sheet stock, which for spacers you don't.
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09-12-2006, 09:34 AM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 93sundance
A few years ago, alot of people were buying his 1" spacers. They aren't worth the money unless you absolutely need them to reverse the plenum.
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Even though spacers really do decrease the sharp bend after the plenum and increase runner length, you don't think they makes any difference? I hope your statement is only relevant as it applies to boosted motors. That would make sense to me. Has the consensus on plenum spacers for NA setups also changed?
[on edit]
Maybe you got some of your money back, on the junk motor he sold you, because you knew where he lived. Could that explain the better parts you got from him also? I know a lot of people, myself included, feel this way about him. 
Last edited by NA2ndgen : 09-12-2006 at 09:58 AM.
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09-12-2006, 11:52 AM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
My Ride: 93 Sundance Duster
Engine: 3.0L V-6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.208
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by NA2ndgen
Even though spacers really do decrease the sharp bend after the plenum and increase runner length, you don't think they makes any difference? I hope your statement is only relevant as it applies to boosted motors. That would make sense to me. Has the consensus on plenum spacers for NA setups also changed?
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I'm not saying they don't make a difference. What I meant by that statement is they don't make a big enough difference to be worth the $85 that Paul charges. That is my opinion. I don't know of anyone that has dynoed the spacers, so no one really knows if they help or not. I was going to do a few passes at the dragstrip with and without them and compare the time slips, but I never got around to it. If you tried them, and noticed a power increase, thats great! I hope they do work. I am not very good at noticing a small increase or decrease in power, therefore, I didnt notice a difference when I tried the spacers.
 Quote:
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Originally Posted by NA2ndgen
[on edit]
Maybe you got some of your money back, on the junk motor he sold you, because you knew where he lived. Could that explain the better parts you got from him also? I know a lot of people, myself included, feel this way about him. 
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Actually, I bought the intake spacers before I Knew where he lived. I can't remember when I bought the front motor mount though. I didn't have any problems with those parts. I sold the spacers to Brent (Ondonti) because I didnt like how close the plenum was to the hood. That was back when I had my 95 lebaron vert. I decided to get the half inch spacers instead.
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09-12-2006, 02:18 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: USA
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 93sundance
I'm not saying they don't make a difference. What I meant by that statement is they don't make a big enough difference to be worth the $85 that Paul charges. That is my opinion. I don't know of anyone that has dynoed the spacers, so no one really knows if they help or not. I was going to do a few passes at the dragstrip with and without them and compare the time slips, but I never got around to it. If you tried them, and noticed a power increase, thats great! I hope they do work. I am not very good at noticing a small increase or decrease in power, therefore, I didnt notice a difference when I tried the spacers.
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Oh. OK I get ya. I doubt if anyone is very good at butt dynoing small power increases.  I always hark back to the time, just 3 years ago  , when I thought the "tornado" thingy I had on worked. I have been careful about self delusion ever since. Not saying I am immune though.
Things I really could feel make a difference:
UDP
Wildly P&P'd plenum, 52mm TB, CAI with cone filter [all put on the same day]
MSD 8228 hot coil [my OE coil must have been really weak]
2.5" pipes with hi-flo catcon and Magnaflo muffler [done on same day]
Plenum Spacers [aluminum ones that cost me $75 to have made]
Ram Air
Sea Foaming my injectors and intake mani [done same day]
Advanced Timing
Not sure about these, but I doubt they hurt:
MSD 6A
Plugs gapped to .050 to go with the CDI above
MSD Superconductor wires
Heat Stop Coated exhaust manis & crossover
Heat Transfer Coated lower intake, plenum, plenum spacers and TB
[on edit]
Back to silent reading. Thanks. 
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09-12-2006, 05:57 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NE OH
My Ride: 1990 Daytona ES
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by NA2ndgen
Oh. OK I get ya. I doubt if anyone is very good at butt dynoing small power increases.  I always hark back to the time, just 3 years ago  , when I thought the "tornado" thingy I had on worked. I have been careful about self delusion ever since. Not saying I am immune though.
Things I really could feel make a difference:
UDP
Wildly P&P'd plenum, 52mm TB, CAI with cone filter [all put on the same day]
MSD 8228 hot coil [my OE coil must have been really weak]
2.5" pipes with hi-flo catcon and Magnaflo muffler [done on same day]
Plenum Spacers [aluminum ones that cost me $75 to have made]
Ram Air
Sea Foaming my injectors and intake mani [done same day]
Advanced Timing
Not sure about these, but I doubt they hurt:
MSD 6A
Plugs gapped to .050 to go with the CDI above
MSD Superconductor wires
Heat Stop Coated exhaust manis & crossover
Heat Transfer Coated lower intake, plenum, plenum spacers and TB
[on edit]
Back to silent reading. Thanks. 
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What UDP you using, using nick boers pulley i really haven't felt much difference in power. even after fixing a dragging caliper (bad brake hose)
The things i've notice give the biggest increase is 52mm TB, open element filter, A604 to A543 tranny swap, A/C removal, solid motor mounts, and some extra weight loss from interior. But not like butt dyno's are much be be said for.
My thought for the next biggest increase is a custom intake, LSD, hiflow cat and 2.5 catback, and lightweight flywheel before FI'ing the engine. Not all these directly add hp/tq, but help put it to the ground.
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09-12-2006, 07:21 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NE OH
My Ride: 1990 Daytona ES
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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