Stein's new turbo????

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti i believe tirerack will pay for your flats if you pay 20 bucks up front or something like that.......they never sent me my coverage plan though (they like to forget it). Fixing a flat only costs 20 bucks anyways (just hope you dont get a hole near the sidewall).

The local Discount tire store will patch tires for free, even if you didn't buy them there....

$20 is about 1/3 the cost of a tire and they would likely prorate it, so I would still pay a big chunk of the cost of a new tire...

Right now I have purchased enough tires without the hazard insurance, that I could afford 2 or 3 new tires...

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93sundance why not get some slicks

I considered that, but they would be about $200 per tire (with inner tube!) $400 is too expensive right now... I am going for a 2.1-2.2sec 60' instead of a 1.8-1.9...

I think that plus only the driver alone would get Stein into the 13's....

Slicks would get it into the mid-13's (no other changes...)

[mightymulhern]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti I think that sucks about your turbo. Stage 5 would have been awesone stage 1......

I concur. A 57 trim turbo with a stage 1, 2, or even 3 turbine can usually be found on eBay for less than $300. By contrast a Stage 5, 60 Trim is a bit harder to come by and is a bit pricier. I feel like we got a decent deal for a stage 5/60 trim, but for a a stage 1/57 Trim, we got screwed.

[c2xejk]

Though most the the ebay "T3/T4 57 trim" turbos bear little to no resemblance to a true T3/T4 of any trim... The so called T4 57 trim wheels are smaller than any Turbonetics T4 wheel.

The biggest issue is the stage 1 turbine... The 57 trim wheel on the turbo would be "acceptable" if it was paired with a bigger turbine. Even a stage 2 turbine....

[mightymulhern]

Agreed and agreed.

Upon further thought, I'd like to retract my prior comments. Looking on eBay tonight, I can't find any T3/T04E's for $300 or less that don't set off the BS detector in my head in one way or another.

Some of the turbo listings on eBay are almost comical. The measurements don't match anything officially listed by the manufacturer. The A/R and Trim numbers are totally confused, reversed, or just plain written incorrectly. T4 turbines with divided T3 flanges are listed as stage 5 T3s and have turbine wheel sizes not matching T3 or T4. High A/R T4 turbines are listed as having "fast spool" on 4cyl engines.

It amazes me that these con artists aren't even smart enough to use the terminology correctly. ...and why would you post measurements that are contrary to your description. Perhaps that makes it no longer fraud.

I will say that I strongly suspect that one company out there is operating under several different eBay usernames to sell the same turbo. That or these people are too lazy to write their own descriptions. I'll keep the names to myself, but those interested shouldn't have to look at too many listings to gleen the trend.

[Ondonti]

I think all of those are KKK turbos

[DustyR/T]

I was originally going to put an E-bay turbo on mine, but after much thought and investment, I decided I'm going to pony up the doh and spend 1200 or so on a very good hybrid from fwdperformance or turbosunleashed or another reputable turbo vendor. Can't expect too much from a cheap turbo. I want a dual ball bearing turbo w/ a decent size to get my goal from my appointed PSI.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NA2ndgen I have never heard anything but good things about the Kumho ecsta ASX, and so I think I will be alright with those. I wish I knew 3 years ago what I know now. I would have got bigger wheels.

When you say "bigger" wheels, are you talking wider or bigger radius?

There are a lot of tradeoffs with these. Taller rims with short side wall tires are great for cornering, but can't carry a heavy load. They also generally increase the total mass of the rim as well as inertia...

If the overall height of the tire is taller, that hurts acceleraton. It effectively changes the gear ratio...

On my van, I run fairly tall tires because I tend to haul heavier loads (including trailering...) Short sidewalls would limit the load I can carry. So I accept that the van will not be as fast, but can haul...

On Stein, I am increasing tire height because I am VERY traction limited and with a turbo, loading up the engine quickly is a good thing...

So since you don't intend to carry heavy loads, not turbo'd, and prefer performance, shorter tires are better....

As with many things, selection of parts is a compromise. You have to decide what compromise works best with the rest of the setup and the vehicles goals...

[Ondonti]

You can buy a turbo like I have for 850-900 bucks (less then mine cost to "build" from parts, oops). Check out fullrace.com
I used parts from both precision turbo and ATP turbo (purchased through local vendor) and modified a diesel to4 turbo I bought in 2002 into what I have now. Mine is a bit better because of the giant compressor housing.

There is no reason to buy a turbo from a TD vendor because we are building our own manifolds and can use whatever flange we want. If you can buy a standard turbo from them at a decent price......then go ahead.

Just buy something like a standard gt35 (BB or not) or an sc61 (from precision) or whatever turbo is going to match your goals.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymulhern Agreed and agreed. Upon further thought, I'd like to retract my prior comments. Looking on eBay tonight, I can't find any T3/T04E's for $300 or less that don't set off the BS detector in my head in one way or another.

One other note on this... Chris Wright (owner of TU) posted (turbo section) that they got one of those cheap turbos in. It had blown relatively quickly and the owner of it wanted it rebuilt w/ the quick spool option. Anyway, Chris discovered that the compressor wheel was MUCH softer than it was supposed to be...

Further reason to avoid the cheap turbos....

[RoadWarrior222]

It's the same all over with cheap parts, had several "OEM spec" pieces that should have had like grade 8.8 bolts in, or supplied with, and they come with unmarked bolts, which if you're lucky meet grade 3 spec. If they cheaped out on 15c worth of bolt, you've gotta wonder if the metal in the rest of it comes anywhere near original engineering strength.

[c2xejk]

Did you mean Grade 8? 8.8 is used on metric bolts and is pretty much common grade. Most automotive are 10.9 or 12.9.... I have found it strange that autoparts stores sell 8.8 metric bolts...

[RoadWarrior222]

Yeah I meant 8.8, just the little M8s or M10s like the ones you'll find holding a tranny pan or waterpump on, in other assemblies, cheap bastages can't even give you one of the (as you pointed out) commonest low grades, and you get this grade zip bolt that the head twists off from when you try and give it's measly 15ft/lb or whatever.

[c2xejk]

That's why I go to Fastenal when I need bolts... They have or can get me the correct 10.9 or 12.9 grade bolts...

[NA2ndgen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk When you say "bigger" wheels, are you talking wider or bigger radius? There are a lot of tradeoffs with these. Taller rims with short side wall tires are great for cornering, but can't carry a heavy load. They also generally increase the total mass of the rim as well as inertia... If the overall height of the tire is taller, that hurts acceleraton. It effectively changes the gear ratio... On my van, I run fairly tall tires because I tend to haul heavier loads (including trailering...) Short sidewalls would limit the load I can carry. So I accept that the van will not be as fast, but can haul... On Stein, I am increasing tire height because I am VERY traction limited and with a turbo, loading up the engine quickly is a good thing... So since you don't intend to carry heavy loads, not turbo'd, and prefer performance, shorter tires are better.... As with many things, selection of parts is a compromise. You have to decide what compromise works best with the rest of the setup and the vehicles goals...

The tires/wheels on now have the OE overall radius, and they are 2 inches wider than the really narrow ones it came with. I went from OE 14" to 15" wheels 2" wider , and the aspect ratio came down to 60. I figured they would give me better handling, and they could still carry the lighter loads I would carry in my mini. So far 195 60R 15 has been great for me.

I just wish I had gone with 16" wheels, an additional 2" wider, and kept the overall radius to OE, or very close to it, by decreasing the aspect ratio to 45 or 50. Or whatever it would have taken to do that. I have a heck of a time with ratios. Math is not something I can grok.

I thought the weight increase would have been negligible. But as you said, since it is NA, any increased mass may have hurt my performance, and too low a profile may have decreased my carry capacity too much.

OK. Now back to 'Turbo Talk'.