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09-25-2006, 07:39 PM
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#20
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Indiana
1/4: 0.000
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The FPR (or AFPR) controlls the "base" fuel pressure. ie. the fuel pressure relative to atmospheric. So at 1 psi of vacuum, the fuel pressure would be base pressure - 1 psi. So if you set the base at 35psi, then it would be 34psi. At 1 psi of boost, the fuel pressure (FP) would be 36psi.
The FMU is strictly relative to boost. So 0 boost, it is trying to move FP to 0 psi. At 1psi vacuum, it is tring to move the FP to 0 psi. When you get into the boost, is when things get interesting. If you have say a 10:1 FMU and you have 1psi of boost, then the FMU is trying to regulate FP to 10psi...
Now since 10 psi < 36psi, the FP will be 36psi. To figure out when the meet, you can solve the following equation:
35 + x = 10* x
or x = 35/9 aka 3.9psi.
An quick examination of the equation tells you that if you lower the base pressure, the onset boost level is lower... There are limits to how low you can go and get a good spray pattern... There can also be limits on how low you can turn down the base pressure because of the fuel pump... (there are ways to deal with that problem too...)
Anyway, the FMU and FPR/AFPR are both part of a large system that must be tuned... On Stein I also run cold start injectors... The cold starts plug the low and high psi holes in the fueling...
Once I slow the fuel pump, I may be able to turn the base pressure down and eliminate the low psi cold start...
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09-26-2006, 03:13 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
My Ride: 94 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator
adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator
larger injectors
SAFC (or alike)
that's basically all you'll need to get your fuel system where you need it, if you don't use a stand alone ecu.
The ratio won't be dependant on your pump. It's dependant on your injectors and boost goals.
50-1 trim? Never heard of that turbo before. Unless you meant a T04E 50 trim Stage I? And if you're going with a bullseye turbo, you're wasting your money. You can get the same quality of turbo for much less. You just have to shop around and know what you're looking at.
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09-26-2006, 04:45 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
My Ride: 94 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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well, let me tell it to you like this. There are two guys running the "Chrysler Prototype" 3.0L turbo setups in their cars. Neither one is using a SAFC unit on the setup. They're just using larger injectors, adjustable base fuel pressure regulator, and an adjustable rising rate of gain fuel pressure regulator. The one, he's been driving the car like that for the past few years now. Many thousands of miles with no problems, besides on ocaisional transmission thrashing.
Oh, and by the way, that OBX FMU is not a very good choice. I highly recommend using what all the other 3.0L turbo guys have been using. The BEGi units. They have an adjustable rate of gain, plus an adjustable onset of pressure. This way, you don't get the lean condition between the 1-4 psi boost pressures. And it will also prevent being overly rich in the upper boosts as well.
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09-26-2006, 07:21 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
My Ride: 94 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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The only way to tune is on a dyno using a wideband O2 setup. An EGT is a good gauge to have as well. It can better tweak your ignition if your Air/fuel seems to be on spot.
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09-26-2006, 07:33 PM
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#28
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
My Ride: 94 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Urban_S
I wish they had something like dsmlink for these cars. With that and my aem wideband it was sweet. Dyno tuning is not the only way but just the best way.
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Yet you knew what I meant.
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