Q about my new valve cover.

[Boogieman142]

i can prolly get a copy of the tsb at work tomorrow if u still need it. if memory serves me right it just involved replacing the whole cover and nothing about enlarging holes cause it can't be properly cleaned.

[lookin]

If it wouldn't be too much trouble.

Do you know if there is any difference, between valve covers inside, by year? IOW are they all the same inside?

[RoadWarrior222]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lookin Saaay. How do we know if following the mighty DXC TSB, about this enlarging the drain-back holes mod, even helps for that matter?

Good point.

The "fix" in later models might just have been specifying SJ spec oil instead of SG or something. Might only be a real problem on older 3.0s that had a bit of sludge start on the older spec oils, and just had it continue to build up slowly. Also there's the oil additive mismatch problem, meaning some oils don't play nice with other oils, so changing it with one oil then topping it up with another, then going for a third type next change can aggravate any sludging tendencies. I've been guilty of that, buying whatever was on sale and topping it off with cheap stuff 'coz it was using a lot. I'm planning a top end freshen up on mine and after I've done that, I'll be putting her on walmart synth.

[RoadWarrior222]

Been digging for info...

Quote:

From autos/chrysler-faq/general/part5 (usenet) http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/chrys...general/part5/ 42. Oil loss/smoking from 3.0 V-6 Jim Thatcher: the smoking from his 3.0 liter engine was coming from the PCV housing. A redesigned valve cover handles the oil properly. Details from Keith Vicker (I think): inside the front valve cover, the PCV housing does not always drain oil properly. Drilling holes in this MAY cure the problem - we have no experience with that.

Quote:

From .. http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us100344.htm The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system on the 3.0L V6 sucks blowby vapors from the crankcase through the baffles that are built into the valve covers. There is also a drain hole in the covers so excess oil can drain back into the engine. If the drain hole becomes plugged, oil can be drawn into the PCV system causing a huge increase in the engine's appetite for oil. Likewise, if the baffles are clogged with sludge, pressure can build up in the crankcase forcing oil to leak past other gaskets and seals in the engine. There is no way to clean the baffles because they are located between the inner and outer liners in the valve covers. So if the valve covers are dirty and caked with varnish and sludge, they should be replaced with new ones.

Hmmmm, so I'm wondering if people with the problem were told they needed a new valve cover and just presumed it was redesigned, whereas it was just another one the same.

[lookin]

Thanks RoadWarrior222 for posting the info. That was darn nice of you.

The whole subject of oil is very complex, and I can't sort fact from opinion. I believe you are right about mixing oils and switching types though. I just don't understand all this stuff is all I am saying. There does though seem to be some truth to the controversy regarding Mobil1 now being group III hydro-processed semi-syn, and because of this I am switching to Mobil1 EP, as that may be their better formula now.

Last year I did one oc with redline 5W 30. I thought maybe their ester formula, would clean the insides real good, and act to counteract the reported ill effect PAO has on engine seals. That was expensive, and a lot of it went right through my PCV valve and into the intake on a road trip. So I didn't leave the Redline in as long as I intended too. I did an oc with Mobil1 again a little earlier than I had intended.

Also, a couple of months ago, I did an oc with Valvoline 10W 40 dino. I ran it hard for a few hours on some back roads, and then I went through all the gears several times, letting off to flex the rings. Then I then drained it hot.

The dino came out absolutely black! I was amazed, all that crud was still in there, even after 5 years of running Mobil1. Apparently, M1's additive pack and cleaners, do not deal 100% effectively with old dino deposits.

The whole idea was to use Valvoline's dino detergents, which are designed to handle dino deposits, to get out any remaining crud left over from the first 46,000 of miles of dealer service.

I then refilled with Valvoline 10W 40 again, and I ran it for a month of normal dd. Then I drained it hot again. It came out black for a few seconds, then less so, and then it became medium amber. I then refilled with Mobil1. New NAPA Silver filters each time btw.

Doing that did improve ring seal apparently, which was the idea, because manifold vac went from 18"Hg at 1000 RPMs in neutral, to 20"Hg at 1000 RPMs in neutral, over the next few weeks on the M1 refill.

Monday I am draining it hot again and refilling with Mobil 1, extended performance this time, and a new Purolator PremiumPlus filter is going on. I am still not sure how I feel about extended oc intervals, and I doubt I will let it go over 5,000 miles or 5 months.

I did the procedure, I just outlined, at the advice of very knowledgeable friend. I was was very hesitant to do it, but he really does know his stuff, and I am very glad I took his advice.

Regarding the redesigned valve cover thing.

The dealer parts guys say, there is only one valve cover part number listed, for all 3.0s of all years. I still don't know what to think. I do really like the parts department at the Dodge dealership I go to though. They are great guys, very patient with my stupid Qs, and they don't charge me an arm and leg for mopar parts.

Please excuse me for making this such a long post. Hope it doesn't bore anybody to death.

[Boogieman142]

the tsb just says replace the valve cover

[black86glhs]

Guys....I may have misspoke. The TSB was to replace the valve cover, as was stated by the others. I used to drill extra holes in the VC to aid in drainage. Chrysler is going to tell you to replace the valve cover, they make more money.
I have used all kinds of spray cleaners from carb cleaner to brake clean. I think I also used Sea Foam, but it had to sit for a while. If I remember correctly....the cheap carb cleaner or "throttle body cleaner" worked the best and yes you can clean the baffles...I used to do it. This is what we did on my friends Caravan.

[lookin]

Thanks Boogieman142.

I am gonna install it tomorrow. Hopefully it will help things.

[lookin]

Thanks black86glhs.

[black86glhs]

[lookin]

....

[RoadWarrior222]

Well, I've got a fairly clean spare, guess when I've got my front end sorted out on the van, I'll hook a clean hose up to the PCV breather and try huffing down it with the "710" cap off to see whether it needs it NOW, or can hang on until I give the motor some proper attention.

[lookin]

That sounds like a plan. I wonder though if you can really tell, for certain, if it is OK just by doing that. It may still permit some airflow, or as they say in Germany "huffenuffen", and yet it may still not function properly.

Like for instance: The end of the baffle nearest the oil fill port, has a large opening, and so if your drain-back ports are restricted or even clogged completely, you very likely wouldn't notice that just by "huffing" the PCV hose.

Now where can I get me one them 710 caps?

[lookin]

LHM! I am so stupid!

It just dawned on me FINALLY, that of course the rear PCV port becomes more active at WOT, than the front one where the PCV valve is, because manifold vacuum drops down to zilch at WOT!

I honestly had thought it was like a cross flow deal, at all times, going in from the rear and out from the front.

I had noticed that my boost/vacuum gauge, shows manifold vacuum decreases proportionately with increasing throttle, and now FINALLY it makes sense to me why!

I swear I just now got it. It just gelled all of a sudden. Hey, I just started learning about cars, like 4 years ago.

[lookin]

I know this is small taters compared to all the stuff going on here. But I did my first valve cover R&R this evening, and hopefully this will fix my minor oil consumption and PCV issues.

Looks good too. All nice and shiny.