Oil light turns on at idle

[Ntrain2k]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 87turbodance It's definately not overfilled and the light was on before my last oil change when the motor was nearly 2 quarts low (after 10,000 km between oil changes and nothing added between) The motor runs like new and doesn't burn any oil. I do have leaks on both the front and rear valve covers, though.

If you went 6250 miles between oil changes and were 2 quarts low, that probably explains a lot....

[87turbodance]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ntrain2k If you went 6250 miles between oil changes and were 2 quarts low, that probably explains a lot....

II wouldn't say 2 quarts. The motor holds 4.4 litres and the oil jug looked to be missing a litre or a litre and a half when I poured the old oil into it. I also have some leaky valve covers. Before the oil changes each time the oil is never very far below the add line on the dip stick. Be a couple litres low wont hurt the motor anyway unless I'm racing the thing and all the oil is moving away from the sump

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoadWarrior222 Well keeping it below the full line would stop it foaming. I have heard some synthetics are good at not foaming but don't know which. You might be more inclined to overfill slightly if you've had much to do with Fords, they often have a Full and an Add mark on their sticks, but the "Add" means "Add 1qt" so you add one qt, even when it's gotten an eighth below the add, and it ends up 2 inches over the full mark... and this is normal.

OK

Hey. Ever notice the difference in oil level between the two sides of the 3.0 dipstick? I go by the lower of the two levels. What do you think?

[RoadWarrior222]

I think the lower is right, because the higher is usually where it is pulled up the stick by capilliary action (wicking) due to the stick sitting close to one side of the tube.

[lookin]

Yep. For whatever reason, the high side defies gravity, and so I trust the lowest reading.

Thanks for the reply.

[87turbodance]

Well, I have roughly 4 psi of oil pressure at a hot idle. The 3SI guys have recommended that I replace the oil pump and install new STD main and rod bearings. What do you guys think? I'd like to pull the motor and get the crank turned but I really cant afford the downtime. The motor has 136,000 miles on it.

[Tim_K]

Like I said before, get rid of the 10w-30 oil and replace it with 10w-40 or 20w-50 and watch the gauge go up.

[Boogieman142]

putting in a heavier oil really is just a band-aid to the problem, i'd def go with what the 3si guys said.

[87turbodance]

I ordered a Clevite bearing set now I just need to find an oil pump. Ebay pump will run me $100 CND by the time shipping is added in ($37 US to ship). Anyone know a closer to home that has quality pumps for less money? I will likely end up buying the Ebay unit

[DustyR/T]

why go through all the work to replace the pump w/ a cheap-o e-bay pump? Get a Melling or a Toga. You're asking for trouble from an e-bay pump IMHO.

[Ondonti]

you could also try a "rebuild" kit

[irocelectric93]

I had the valve cover problem for a bit. Im having oil leakage probs as well however my issue seems to be coming from my distributor...i think the O ring is shot. Anyway to fix the valve cover prob use some RTV or something similar and like Brent said overtorque the bolts just a tad....not too much though.

[87turbodance]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DustyR/T why go through all the work to replace the pump w/ a cheap-o e-bay pump? Get a Melling or a Toga. You're asking for trouble from an e-bay pump IMHO.

Good quality parts can be hard to find in Canada unless you're willing to shell out a lot of money. A bearing set (rod, main, thrust) locally would run me well over $300.00 alone. Could you suggest a place I could buy a melling or toga pump from?

[Tim_K]

Go to google and type in JIS Engines. Search by car type and find the 6G72 page of parts. Main bearings are $16 and rods are $13. I wasn't sure of their quality level, so I didn't order any. But you can use them and let me know if they work good or not.

[87turbodance]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim_K Go to google and type in JIS Engines. Search by car type and find the 6G72 page of parts. Main bearings are $16 and rods are $13. I wasn't sure of their quality level, so I didn't order any. But you can use them and let me know if they work good or not.

I've seen those on ebay and I'm not too sure about them. I think I'll stick with a brand I recognize. Thanks for the tip though. If didn't want to keep this motor for a long time I'd just put in some 15W50and drive on. I didn't exactly that on my old TBI Sundance. 4 months after adding the thicker oil the motor was so loud you couldn't have a conversation inside while driving. When I pulled the motor out there were pieces of bearing in the oil pan. Now I always think twice about adding thick oil to keep pressure up