Oil light turns on at idle

[c2xejk]

That's why I recommended plasti-gauging the bearings... If they are within tolerance, you can save yourself a lot of time...

[87turbodance]

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk That's why I recommended plasti-gauging the bearings... If they are within tolerance, you can save yourself a lot of time...

Even if they're within tolerance I will still put new ones in just to be safe.

[87turbodance]

I now have a complete standard bearing set for my motor and a new oil pump. How long do you guys think it would take to change these items with the motor still in the car? This car is my dd so I need a rough idea how long it will take before I dig in. I have been driving the past couple weeks with 10w40 in the car and I get 7 or 8 psi of oil pressure at idle with 10 psi per 1000 rpm from there. when hot.

Do you guys have any tips for mods to the lower end of the motor while I have it apart? Oil pump relief spring shim? Enlarged holes? This will be my first time opening any part of one of these motor up. All me past experience is with 2.2/2.5 motors and smallblock chevys

[Ondonti]

you can swap the bearings including thrust washers with engine in car but it will NOT be fun and you probably wont be doing any measurements so there is no guarantee things really work out.

If the current bearings do not look very worn then it might be that. either the crank is work, or the oil pump was worn out (clearances too big) or the relief valve was leaking.

No matter what I would suggest shimming the oil pump relief spring 1/16" (some do 1/8") as extra insurance.

YOu could take apart your oil oil pump and check the clearances on it. I think you only need feeler gauges for some of that. Ive never done it before.

you wont be able to replace the rear main seal with the transmission in and if you pull the tranny you might as well pull the engine because you will have NO engine mounts holding up the engine.

[87turbodance]

I figure even if the crank is worn I cant make it any worse by putting a new pump and bearings in the motor (unless a bearing spins afterwards) I plan to rebuild this motor with forged slugs next year so what the hell... we'll see how it goes.

I wont be pulling the transmission because I don't feel like having to replace all the ATF +4 that will leak out (trans currently has +4 in it)

I'll be picking up an A543 next month and I hope to have the thing converted to 5spd by this fall.

[87turbodance]

I took my motor apart yesterday (still in the car). I meant ti take some pics but I forgot. Anyway, I found the motor has .25mm bearings in it so someone has been in the motor before me. I didn't bother pulling the rod bearing caps but the main bearing looked terrible. The main bearings were all worn down to the copper and bearings and crank journals were scored pretty bad. Looks like I'll be buying a junk yard motor and rebuilding it with forged pistons instead. Oh well, I installed my new oil pump anyways and so far I have much better oil pressure but it still isn't what it should be. I have 15psi at idle and 30 psi by 2000 rpm with fresh 10W30 oil.