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Old 06-08-2007, 12:45 PM   #1
car misfires and shuts down  
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ever since i removed the heater and heater core my car wont go 5 miles without overheating misfiring and eventually shutting down ive tried wiring the fan up to key on power but the motor is still getting extremely how for some reason and on top of it all the thermostat was just replaced like 400 miles ago should i try drilling a 1/8 inch hole in it? possibly bad waterpump?
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Old 06-08-2007, 12:54 PM   #2
 
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Did you actually "plug" the hoses that originally ran to your heater core? Or did you install a "bypass" hose between the manifold and pump inlet pipe above the transmission?

If you plugged them, then that would definately cause overheating, due to lack of circulation of coolant in the system. If you bypassed the core with a run-around hose, then you are looking at something that is far deeper than what changes you've made to your car.
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Old 06-09-2007, 08:00 AM   #3
 
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The horrible thing about how our waterpumps sometimes fail is that the impeller slips wrt to the pulley, this gets worse at higher RPM, so, you check out the system at idle and it still seems to have some sort of flow, 'coz the impeller is spinning and it's not slipping too bad, but when you drive it, it starts slipping like hell and you've got basically no circulation. Now eventually the impeller will probably wind it's way out of the bearing and wedge itself against the block, whereupon, everything will eventually get warm enough that the bearing siezes solid and the timing belt locks up the motor, snaps or strips..... best way to tell if it's doing this is to listen to it carefully, particularly if you get more squeak and squeal as you rev the motor. Also you may notice that if you're sitting in the driveway and suddenly give it 3000 rpm and hold it there, you get overheating quickly, but that if you drop it to idle and it doesn't overheat, and then you ease it slowly to 3000 and it doesn't overheat, then that's a good sign the pump is slipping.

If heatercore circuit is looped properly as mentioned above, other things to check would be that the system is holding pressure properly, rad caps get weak, pinhole leaks can bleed pressure badly, and be real hard to spot, particularly if they are bleeding steam. (i.e. you never see a puddle or trickle of green crap, coz it evaporates) use your nose, if you can smell coolant, you've got a leak somewhere. "Bars Leaks" is a bandaid solution, works great on those "smell um but no see um" leaks.
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Old 06-09-2007, 01:19 PM   #4
 
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i looped the heater hoses not bypass ,it has recently developed a ticking sound (loose timing belt?) there are no visible coolant leaks nor smells although a couple tiomes after running it a half hour or so at idle when i shut it down it DUMPS antifreeze out of the overflow
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Old 06-09-2007, 02:18 PM   #5
 
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Ticking sound could be the impeller striking.
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Old 06-10-2007, 12:50 AM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimTona
i looped the heater hoses not bypass ,it has recently developed a ticking sound (loose timing belt?) there are no visible coolant leaks nor smells although a couple tiomes after running it a half hour or so at idle when i shut it down it DUMPS antifreeze out of the overflow
When you "looped" them, did they pinch/kink? OR did you use a "U" bend hose so pressure/flow wouldn't be restricted?
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Old 06-10-2007, 03:29 AM   #7
 
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I dont understand what you guys are talking about.

I have the intake manifold pipe welded shut and also the one on the transmission.

I cant see how it would matter at all unless your radiator was so messed up inside that you need your heater core to do some of the cooling work.

BTW sounds like headgasket is gone if it overflows like that.
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Old 06-10-2007, 08:41 AM   #8
 
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Never mind....was thinking of the 2.2...not the 3.0.
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Old 06-10-2007, 11:46 AM   #9
 
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thats what i thought the hose isnt kinked and even if it was that alone shouldnt be enough to make overheat like this it diddnt start doing this untill i had the radiator flushed and there was a bunch of chunky brown shyt comin out looked like carbon but it wasnt bars stop leak and for the past 1,000 miles or so its been smoking on startup just lightly ive got a spare set of heads that ive been thinking about building up i guess its time then replace the waterpump and the o-ring for the tube that runs across the motor while im at it by the way has anyone on here used mpg mikes 2 piece intake valves the theory behind them sounds legitimate i would just like to know more from someone else before i dump 300 bux or so
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Old 06-10-2007, 11:51 AM   #10
 
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im really thinking its the waterpump because that would explain alot of things no circulation would make it bubble over like that,2 the ticking sound,3overheating,could the timing belt be so loose that its slapping around inside there that could be making the ticking sound also could it be so loose that its not letting the waterpump spin fully? i dont think the waterpump has fully seized because there is no belt squeal its been lighweight misfiring for a while now maybe my headgasket is blown also i never could keep ne fluid in the overflow so i just let that go
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Old 06-10-2007, 01:48 PM   #11
 
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Tim, My thoughts are that if it had a belt that was loose enough to make the noise, it would probably jump time. Maybe not, but most of the time that is what I have seen with a loose belt.
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Old 06-10-2007, 04:40 PM   #12
 
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if u just had a flush and got some chunky stuff out i'm betting that u took out the gunk that was sealing up ur headgasket. i'd bet it was a headgasket
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Old 06-10-2007, 09:07 PM   #13
 
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that could be but ive owned the car for 3 years and ive driven it pretty hard although ive only put maybe 1,500 miles on it i thought about that too tho but isnt that stuff copper colored this was black but i noticed that the radiator thats in it has junkyard numbers on it and somebody could very easily have headgasket sealed the car it came from
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Old 06-12-2007, 11:28 PM   #14
 
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is there any way to test if the waterpump is doing its job without tearing it apart?
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Old 06-13-2007, 02:11 AM   #15
 
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well I would do a compression test.
Still it sounds like a headgasket if your coolant system is suddenly pressurizing.

I was having some coolant problems in my spirit (not overheating though). Coolant was brown with rust and getting some bubbles. Changing the pump seemed to make that go away but I still sorta worry I need to replace the headgaskets.

I seem to be losing coolant. Not as much as before but it doesnt make any sense that a waterpump would cause you to run low on coolant.
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