P-body 24v updates

[Shadow24V]

havent heard of having to torch the plugs...whats the reasoning behind that?

as for the wires, i dont think i mis-wired them, its a bit hard when the other wires wont reach lol, ill check again though, and i may go get some new plugs. doesnt explain the idling with 0 or 1 in the VE...

[Ondonti]

I stated before.

The plugs are fouled. They wont fire properly until you torch them to burn off the fuel from inside the plug (takes awhile and the plug must get HOT) and then clean them off with a wire brush or something (i usually skip this step).

[Ondonti]

The car sounds like its not running on the rear cylinders cause the plugs are still fouled and its lighting up in the exhaust and backfiring. My car does the exact same thing when its fouled. If you drive it the car will be gutless and pop BADLY cause its under load.

[Shadow24V]

im gonna get a new set of plugs tomorrow i think. if that doesnt help any, something else must be wrong *sigh*

Brent, ever feel like giving up on your car some days? i know i do...

[Ondonti]

i give up for the day and do something else. Then when something else frustrates me more, back to the car.
Helps me realize life's problems arent so bad lol.

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti i give up for the day and do something else. Then when something else frustrates me more, back to the car. Helps me realize life's problems arent so bad lol.

EXACTLY right brent!

[Shadow24V]

yeah, neighbour taught me that one too. take breaks so you dont break shit and whatnot

[87turbodance]

Do you have a noid light that you can use to verify that the rear injectors are pulsing when the engine cranks?

[Shadow24V]

whats a noid light? i got a test light... i turned the motor over a time or two before reassembling the intake and spark plug wires to make sure they were not staying open like the previous injectors.

hmmm, i wonder if having multi-spark enabeld on the EDIS is contributing, or if the fuel pressure is too high...

changing the fuel table doesnt have any effect on the motor, neither does changing the req_fuel. only thing i found that had any effect was opening time. drop that below 1.4 and it started hunting real bad, go back to 1.4 and it evened out some... *shrug* this is confusing as all can be

[Reaper1]

A noid light is a special light for diagnosing EFI electrical systems. Typically the pulse is too fast to see with a regualr test light or DVM. You *could* use a scope, but that would be impractical. So, you can use a noid light. I think you can actually rent them from Auto Stoned...

HTH

[Shadow24V]

well, ive gotten some help from one fo the main gurus over at MSEFI.com, and i think i have it narrowed down to too long an opening time causing the overrich condition and general crappy running characteristics. once the weather is a lil better, ill see what i can do with that, add the AFPR i have and see how she goes.

[Shadow24V]

day or two ago, figured out that it was too long an injector opening time screwing me up.

did some more work on it today, upped the req_fuel and VE table, but she still will only start and die after a little bit. Still runs very rough. was able to keep her running for a bit around 4000rpms, but started to smell something hot. looked outside the car and the muffler was radiating a ton of heat, and was cherry-red inside. i think that might be the excess fuel burning off from the stuck injectors but *shrug*

also, im wondering if setting Multi-spark on might have killed one of the GM coils i have as it seems like 2 cylinders arn't firing. when i swapped plugs earlier, 4 were fouled, 2 were mostly clean (paired cylinders i believe) ill see if i can get spark off of all plugs (injectors off) and see if one isnt sparking. Can a coil just die suddenly like that? that might explain the rough running and poor starting etc..

too bad i only have a day or two left before going back to school.....

[Reaper1]

You sure the timing isn't too far retarded? VERY retarded timing can also cause a LOT of heat in the exhaust as well as rough running.

[Shadow24V]

yeah, cam timing is 100% stock, not advanced or retarded, and timing was between 14* and 25* i dropped it down earlier due to bad fuel, havent re-upped it to the known good hi-po map yet

[Reaper1]

OK, I think you are talkign about 2 different types of timing in your last post. I saw the cam timing.

Now, the 14-25, was that spark timing? 'Cause that's what I'm inquiring about.
If the base timing is set where it's supposed to be (12-14* BTDC from the factory anyways), then check your cold start advance values in the calibration and make sure that's not all whacked out. It could be the program is pulling the timing WAY back for cold start and leaving it there once it's running.

I don't have MS or anything, but I know these are things that can be changed in most stand-alone systems, and it just seems to make the most sense(beyond the injectors staying wide open).