P-body 24v updates

[Ondonti]

He isnt dealing with adjusting base timing. no distributor.

the EDIS unit sends out a default signal of +10 degrees and then the MS is responsible for adding any additional timing.
If his EDIS wheel accurately identifies TDC...only he knows.

[Shadow24V]

yeah, the 14* stuff was ignition timing. i have the 24v motor from an 00-05 eclipse GT so the timing is different than the 12v normally in a P-body. i have a known-good stock and hi-po maps, but all i had done was take the hi-po map and take 10* out when i had bad fuel. ill see if i have the stock map translated into MS, i tohught i did somewhere.....

i still think 2 cylinders arnt firirng right due to the shakes and crappy running, im thinking of picking up a second set of coils at the J-yard tomorrow and seeing if it runs better on those

[Reaper1]

OMG..I can't beleive I made that mistake : Sorry. Well, it's still a thought, just not the way I imagined it! DOH...I feel a little stupid right now....

[Shadow24V]

lol, its ok we all have those days. im gonna see if i cant get a set of coils today and see if its that. if its not, i have no idea then lol.

[Shadow24V]

well, swapped the coils and found that the 1-4 coil was cracked. got in and she fired right up with the new coils and ran fairly well. too bad i didnt see that earlier. added some stabil to the tank and ran her for a bit to get the sabilized fuel into the lines and injectors. at least i know she works fine for spring break

[Reaper1]

SWEET!! Good for you! Now, get crackin at tuning it! LOL

[Shadow24V]

im leaving tomorrow morning to get back to school for monday classes

she'll have to wait until spring break to get aligned and better tuned....i wish i could find some good tuning books to read in the mean time...

[Shadow24V]

well, came home friday, and played with the car this afternoon. got it to idle at temperature (warmup needs a lil work) and ended up taking the car out for a spin or two. got it tuned a bit, still need to work on the WOT part of the map, start stumbling at around 4500-5000rpm. also did a lil burnout and the LSD left 2 equal stripes on the road. :-D still need to do a bit more tuning, but its running a lot better. gonna see if i cant get it to the mechanics for an alignment tonight.

burnout


Video of 4 gear pull breaking up around 5K

[mopar3.0]

dam i want a obx, my spring block turbo nation dosent really work

but the spending got to stop somewere,

[Shadow24V]

heres a shot of the engine as is when it ran the other day, still waiting on the mechanics to do the alignment.... i wanna tune it more and see if it will pass emissions....

[SpeedyEd]

I've been following your adventure and I wish you luck. What are the headers from ?
I'm looking for a 3.5 to swap into my Shadow, it will be a sleeper. The computer looks like a major headache. Any reccomendations ?
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

well, im assuming your shadow is pre 96 (i think they ended in 94 anyways) so you only need to pass a sniffer test for emissions (usually). im not sure if the 3.5 will fit, you may be able to get it to fit, but my 3.0 is a fairly tight squeeze with the larger heads and all. you have a taller deck on the 3.5 as well, so i dont know if that will obstruct your hood closing or not, but the 3.5 should bolt to the A543 no problem, i would HIGHLY suggest an OBX diff if you do this as you WILL need the traction.

as for the headers, they were a cheap $400 OBX set for the Eclipse 3.0 off of ebay and had a local shop mod them to fit over the K-frame and steering with an O2 bung after the collector.

Computer-wise, id reccomend the Megasquirt-II, maybe the extra code. mine is wired for the regular code and im running the 2.88 code well. havent gottent to the X-tau tuning and whatnot. Id also run EDIS-6 as you will probably NOT be able to get the dizzy to work, i dont know how Mitsubishi phased the distributor but it is NOT like the 12v dizzy at all. save yourself the headache and go EDIS.

there are many choices you could do, but a lot of it is up to you. i had my motor mounts filled with poly, i have a solid bobble strut, and the passenger side mount has to be custom made to work with the newer mount type. other than that, feel free to ask away

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V Id also run EDIS-6 as you will probably NOT be able to get the dizzy to work, i dont know how Mitsubishi phased the distributor but it is NOT like the 12v dizzy at all. save yourself the headache and go EDIS.

If we could define the 24v and 12v distributor signals (engine position), it may not be too difficult to design an electrical converter box...

We might also be able build a box to take the 24v position signals and convert them to something the EDIS-6 could use. Then it would not be necessary to add the extra sensors...

I know some people that have done this kind of thing that could probably help...

[Shadow24V]

yeah, it may be possible, if at least be able to discover how the OEM 24v distributor interfaces with the computer to connect it to Megasquirt directly and bypass having to use EDIS. Although i do think that EDIS is a step up, i know the mitsu dizzy/comp make or break ground to the coil for ignition timing through a NPN transistor, who knows what the phasing is though


on another note, heard from the mechanic finally after 3 days....need to do a 4 wheel alignment plus shims and labor as the back end was apparently way out of whack. yay, there goes the majority of what i earned for break and a VERY SLIM chance ill get it on the road by week's end. i bet it got out of whack towing it 800 miles on a dolly, but i dont know

[lookin]

Think how awesome it will be when you are finished though.