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Old 03-30-2008, 08:08 PM   #241
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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dont the the obx alone is gona do it, slicks will be needed too
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:40 PM   #242
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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aside from the few burnouts i havent tried and launches really. the OBX does help, but it pulls to the right like a sombitch. im thinking ill have to launch at 2000, at MOST 2500rpms as anything more and ill just be spinning the tires. cooper all season tires on stock 15" steelies.

Daytonairoc - there WAS a guy with a bigger truck there i believe coulda been him maybe. if ya want, next time im home, we could meet up and i can show you the car and all. and yeah, the internet is freaky like that sometimes :-p
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:26 PM   #243
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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took a couple pics of the car this afternoon



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Old 03-31-2008, 08:30 PM   #244
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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wow that is a total sleeper lol. So after your done with the motor whats the next thing your gonna do to the car???
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:30 PM   #245
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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Hey Shadow,
Did you check your tire pressure? Can you preload the right front with the coil-overs? You can use coil a spring spacer in the left rear to load the right front. How about moving the battery over?
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Old 03-31-2008, 08:47 PM   #246
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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hmmm, ill have to see about the preload. it only pulls when im on throttle so *shrug* cant move the battery to the right, thats where the EDIS and relay board are. i was thinking the trunk for the battery. rear coilovers arnt done yet so *shrug*

who says im done with the motor? :-D but id like to clean up the dents and rust and paint it silver, and get some unassuming 16" rims or something. not much more than that, i want to keep the clean sleeper look
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Old 03-31-2008, 09:28 PM   #247
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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Just one question. It may have been answered already. I was wondering why you went with GM coils with the EDIS instead of using the Ford Coils that go with the EDIS?

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Old 03-31-2008, 09:34 PM   #248
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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cost and availibilty. couldnt find a cheap enough EDIS coilpack and the ford connections are harder to do on custom wires than GM HEI connections. or at least it was at the time. that and i cracked one coil already (it was used so *shrug* and being able to replace 1 part instead of the whole thing is handy. now i have 2 spares as well
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:01 PM   #249
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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Hey Shadow,
The tire diameter & pressure will make it pull with that type diff. All those smokey burnouts may have reduced the OD of your right front. Does it pull on moderate throttle when you're driving?
The spring spacer should fit your stock rear spring, & that would load the right front.
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:16 PM   #250
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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see, when im at 0 throttle or engine braking it tracks straight, its only when im on throttle that it starts pulling. i figured it was torquesteer and id have to cope. constant cruse it also wants to pull a little bit. depending how much i stomp on the loud pedal is how much it wants to pull. i equalized the front tire pressure the other day at 32. they were over 40psi before so *shrug*

also where would you get a spacer like you mentioned? and would some godawefully stiff springs still be able to be pre-loaded like your saying?
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:09 PM   #251
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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The spacers are Mr. Gasket but are sold in most accessory stores. They are shaped like the letter E and spread the coils apart. There are ones that mount between the spring and seat, and shim the spring about 1". That might be too much. You'd have to experiment with it.
The stiff springs could be preloaded. What are you planning to use?
The RWD Mopar Perf. leaf springs were different for the right side, to preload the right rear.
You could try more air in the right front to increase the OD & see if that helps.
The preload would do more for the launch. I think the problem is under load the diff drives both tires equally & if there is a difference in OD's it will pull to the short side.
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Old 03-31-2008, 11:16 PM   #252
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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i see. right now i have stiff ass ebay coilovers on the front and stock duster springs in the rear. fronts are probably 300-400lbs/in, i can stand on the springs and they dont move. jumping on the bumper doesn't move the car more than an inch down. oddly it pulls to the LONG axle side not the short axle side (unequal length with right side being the long side)

i do have the rest of the coilover mod to do (rear suspension) i just dont want to damage the springs with a spreader or something. ill have to try some drag launches and see what happens too
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:32 AM   #253
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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Originally Posted by Shadow24V View Post
see, when im at 0 throttle or engine braking it tracks straight, its only when im on throttle that it starts pulling. i figured it was torquesteer and id have to cope. constant cruse it also wants to pull a little bit. depending how much i stomp on the loud pedal is how much it wants to pull. i equalized the front tire pressure the other day at 32. they were over 40psi before so *shrug*
Sounds like there is a problem... Torquesteer should be very minimal if at all. You have an OBX diff, right. Did you replace the bellville (SP?) springs? Those generally defective straight from the factory. There are several threads here on TD that cover it.
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Old 04-01-2008, 08:17 AM   #254
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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yep, replaced both the bellville washers and case bolts before i installed it *shrug* dont know if they slipped or something affecting pre-load when i put it back to gether
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Old 04-01-2008, 06:46 PM   #255
Re: P-body 24v updates  
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I don't remember what, if anything, you said about the rest of the suspension, but I was thinking about your problem the other night. I think you may possibly have a worn inner tie rod.

The other thing is the alignment. The stock alignment specs SUCK. If the shop that did it just wanted to get it in and out it can be within spec, but still not be very good. They will typically put in a certain amount of pull to counteract the road's crown(although I beleive it's supposed to be to the left).

Could you post up the final alignment specs that the car was set to? I'm curious as to what it is.

I personally run -1* chamber on the front with 1/8" total toe out. I got these specs from Gus YEARS ago and they work GREAT! They are nowhere near what stock is, and some shops may be all upitty about doing an alignment like that, but if you pull the tech over to the side, slip him a $20, I'd be more than willing to bet he'd do whatever you want! I usually do this becuase I've been on their side of the rope, so-to-speak. I know for me if a guy tipped me I was more than willing to put forth a little more effort and pay a bit more attention to detail, than if I didn't get a tip.
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