P-body 24v updates

[Shadow24V]

ill try that on weds. Luckly NYIRP has free air availible on the return track behind the stands if i can get the wheelhop down i think i can cut a better 60'

[Reaper1]

I've found on my street tires that around 24-22#'s works pretty well. I don't like to go much lower, but I suppose you could...

[mopar3.0]

are thoes stock gtps.i thought they were half slow stock

[Shadow24V]

bad news. went to the track tonight, got a few runs in before the oil pressure sender somehow vibrated/blew off the motor. dumped most of my oil from the 1000' down through the 1/4 slowdown. AFAIK, i just have low oil lifter tick (as i shut it down). i couldnt get a replacement at the parts store so i had to AAA it to school. Im hoping i didnt spin a bearing or anything but i dont think so, after i parked it i left a good sized puddle of oil so *shrug*

Im beginning to wonder if near 100psi oil pressure is too high at around 6000rpms...

[Ondonti]

BTW on your 195 tires I think you got at least one really good 60'

I think that shows that all the suspension work you have there really helps. Pisses me off cause that means there is something else I need to spend money on that I cant afford (poly bushings etc etc etc).

[Shadow24V]

fastest 60' last night was 2.285, weds was 2.258. i need to do work to the rear suspension to minimise squat, (rear is 100% stock ATM) as i think that will help with my 60'.

i REALLY hope i didnt screw the motor...

[Ondonti]

well the 60's are amazing with stock rear suspension. I think the work in the front end payed off.

BTW, are you using the stock sender? I think mine is leaking oil inside the sensor (not sure how, its not leaking at the thread). I dont really look at the oil pressure when I get on it...as I know it will just shoot up near 100psi. I shim'd the relief valve so it should get more pressure before opening and not leak at lower pressures.
Maybe that was a bad thing.

Hopefully you didnt eat any bearings. Depending on how paranoid you are, you might need to take things apart. Did the track get pissed at you?

More info on the sender would be nice. What actually came off etc.

[Shadow24V]

on the 24v, the oil filter mount has a small 1/8" threaded hole (some british or metric threading though) for the OEM pressure sensor. i never touched it ever throughout the swap. im hopefully going to find out what the actual thread is when i get a new sending unit sunday or monday.

as far as i can tell, all i had was lifter tick from low oil when i shut the motor down. im going to plug the hole, fill it with oil and start her up. if the lifters quiet down and there are no other noises, i think im in the clear. The motor wasnt under load much, as soon as i saw the cloud i got off the throttle and popped the clutch.

The track wasnt mad, a couple of the track guys actually tried to help me fix the car.

[Ondonti]

Some tracks go crazy when there is an oildown. I love seeing your shadow because its the same as my blue duster with no ground fx.

[Shadow24V]

lol, it is actually a duster as well, but w/e this track seems pretty cool about accidents so far.

[mopar3.0]

auto meter oil oil pressure warrning light, i love mine

can also be made froma hidden led, just get a 15 psi hobbs swith

[Shadow24V]

i have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in the cubby hole spot on my dash. it was reading good oil pressure all the way til i shut it down

[Ondonti]

yay, twins.

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
A couple of points, when you are in line to race,(before the burn-out box) focus on the lights. Concentrate on the rhythm of the lights flashing down. Don't get distracted by anything or anyone. This will help your reaction time.
You can do a couple of dry hops to clean the tires, and stage first. Some starters trigger the lights as soon as the second car stages and that can disrupt your focus (on the lights).
Your alum. flywheel is not forgiving on a low RPM launch, so watch your launch RPM.
Find your best shift points (they may differ for each gear) and stick to them. Over revving can slow you down. Some cars are quicker when they are short shifted. Depends on gear spread, engine torque,etc.
There seems to be some debate on tire size VS rim size with the quicker FWD cars. The smaller rim combo give a long tread footprint for good launch, but weight transfer unloads the tire causing wheel spin which increases the OD and shortens the footprint. Larger rim combos have stiffer sidewalls and a shorter footprint.
It seems that stiff springs & shocks would inhibit weight transfer to the rear helping to keep the front loaded. (RWD cars use lower rate front springs to allow the front to lift.)
Now if someone can figure out a front to rear bar that would act like a sway bar (lift VS squat). Hmmmm.
I hope there was no engine damage, it sounds like you shut down quickly enough.
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

speedyed,

thanks for the tips, im still trying to work out the timing for the launch. ill probably get better when i can watch my tach and the tree at the same time (its not mounted ATM).

as for the flywheel, im running a stock steel one, no aluminum flywheel yet the bad launches were the cause of a super rich bog on the low RPM high MAP section of my VE table.

I started a log of all my runs so far, id like to add air temp, launch RPM and shiftpoints to the log and see what effect manipulating the launch and shiftpoint do to my ETs. the run i blew up on was on 20psi in my tires, i didnt get my slip so i dont know what my RT and 60' were. 11 out of my 18 runs were between 14.9 and 15.3, with an average of 15.16. i think im going to use 15.16 for a dialin on weds in the "for Trophy" bracket racing at the track (weather permitting). seems like id be pretty darn close on either side of the dialin.

Suspension-wise i have coilover fronts and stock rear suspension and ive cut a 2.2 60' already. im hoping to get the rear coilovers done this summer and get better street tires (maybe slicks if i have the $$$) and do an adjustable panard bar and tower bar, along with a rear swaybar