P-body 24v updates

[Ondonti]

I just ignore the lights when i am trying something new :P

But I would choose a dialin that you wont easily break out on...othewise instant loss. Remember to let off the gas if you are ahead (so you dont break out).

Simply datalogging RPM's should take care of your launch and shitpoints. My track would not let me datalog during any sort of competition though.

If you had a two step it would make launching 1000x easier too
I would love having one.


Still impressed how only upgrading the front has helped your 60'
P-bodies are supposed to be one of the worst 60'ing FWD dodges.

[Shadow24V]

hmmm, i was thinking a 15.16 or a 15.0, the majority of my runs are 15.1-15.4 at full throttle

never knew that the P-bodies sucked so bad at 60' (supposedly) guess my 2.3s and 2.2s contradict that a bit...

[Ondonti]

Well you have work done to your front end that most people dont. P bodies have the shortest wheelbase except maybe an omni and people talk crap on their 60' ability.

[Reaper1]

Actually L-bodies all have longer wheelbases than us! I beleive L-body is 101in, Daytona is 96in. P-body is close to that.

I personally don't think the rear sway bar is the way to go for drag racing. It's just going to add weight for the most part, in a part of the car that you dno't want or need it in. Now, for drving around on the street...go for it! When you get the rear coil-overs you definatly won't need the rear bar for drag...all preload can be done via spring height.

[Shadow24V]

Im going for balance, the coilovers will help with launches (at the drags or otherwise) but i want the car to HANDLE when i want it to as well hence the rear sway bar and other mods. its not going to be only a drag car but a sleeper street car with drag talents

[Reaper1]

Ah..ok. Fair enough.

[Ondonti]

I forgot that you had the OBX in there. I wonder how much of your good 60' is due to the OBX.

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
I added the front tower bar, didn't see a difference. Added the rear sway bar (Addco) and felt a great improvement. The car was much more responsive to steering input.
You know it might help to shim the sway bar (body) bushings, or use a smaller size, to tighten them for drag racing. This would resist front lift.
The RWD trick was to loosen them for greater lift if you couldn't remove the bar.
Try to learn your launch RPM by ear till you get the tach mounted. But focus on the lights. If you develop a routine it's hard to change, and the object is to leave first!
It's hard to stick with your plan if the other guy slaps a holeshot on you.
Can't see your car at the high end, but take care not to wiggle the steering wheel when you shift. High speed & soft tires can make things interesting (also waste time).
I think the MS is amazing (I'm a carb & dist guy learning new tricks)
Keep up the good work
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

thanks ed, im hopefully going to mount it today and replace the sensor thats missing and start her up again. on the top end, i can easily one hand the steering wheel and track dead straight, no wobble on shifts

yeah, the MS kicks butt, make it yourself and it works like a charm, ill look into the rear suspension tricks when i get into it this summer. I think the coilovers are going to help a lot though

EDIT:
im still working on the WOT tune, its lean in some spots (14:1) and overly rich in others. MT didnt want to run in windows on friday and megatunix isnt finished yet so i couldnt do too much tuning then. hopefully tomorrow night is better.

im going to put loctite blue on the sensor today and plug the hole. that SHOULD keep it from coming out again. However, im keeping some "kwik JB Weld" in the car just in case

Was looking at my times from friday and weds, and on friday i was putting down similar times but 1-2mph slower. wonder if the colder day had anything to do with it...

[Shadow24V]

well, im SOL. I spun a bearing or something on friday. motor doesnt sound 100%, not sure how the top end sounds, did the vcrewdriver stethoscope trick on the top end, and it SOUNDS ok... bottom end however...somethings clunking/spinning. The crank pulley isnt spinning smoothly, its wobbling a bit when it didnt before (stretched the alternator belt so it wont stay on) Anybody have any ideas? im thinking main bearings...

[turbokid]

defnitely sounds like bottom end. Time to drop the pan, look for metal shavings.
Bummer man. Hope it isn't too bad! Good luck

[Ondonti]

I have a video of my 6g72 with main bearing problems. Wasnt a real problem but wrong size installed (didnt know crank had been ground).


Hard to hear in my video because the car is open downpipe. You can hear it clunking irregularly. Good call though, Mains dont sound like a spun rod bearing.
What is your idle oil pressure?

The girdle is a lot easier to remove then the rod caps and you dont have to be so paranoid about retorquing.

Thinking the motor spun a bearing but when I resta - Video
I didnt know what was going on at the time I made this video.

[Shadow24V]

idle oil psi was around 30-35.

mine seems to be a regular irregular sound, when i revved it, i didnt hear it, but at idle it was there. Im not going to drive it anymore and tow it home in 2 weeks. Probably pull the motor and check both rod and main bearings at that time. what really throws me is the added wobble on the pulley and the non-consistency of the clunk

[Ondonti]

Is that cold oil or hot oil?

[Shadow24V]

cold. i ran the car for about 5-7 minutes and it was reading 30-35 psi when i shut it down