P-body 24v updates

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
That doesn't sound like mains. Check the idler pulley bearings. That irregular noise could be a bad ball brg. The crank bearing noise is usually a regular sound that changes with RPM.
Check the harmonic balancer & alt. brgs.
You can drop the oil & look for bearing material if the externals are ok. Use a clean pan.
Don't run the engine unnecessarily in case it is serious.
SpeedyEd
What's your normal cold oil pressure?

[Shadow24V]

hmmm, ill check the crank pully/harmonic balancer tomorrowif thats loose and flopping around, i might actually be ok! still need a belt though in that case.

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
How much does your car weigh? Buried in my archives is a chart to figure HP based on your 1/4 mile MPH. I'll have to dig it out.
SpeedyEd
PS cold air will lean out A/F ratio, unless your comp. compensates for that.

[Shadow24V]

full interior un-lightened P-body, maybe some extra weight with the new motor and my fat butt *shrug* works out to 170-odd HP at the moment by an online calculator i think

[Shadow24V]

any other input on what it could be? it really sounds like something in the bottom end somewhere...

[Ondonti]

I think it sounds just like my motor did in that video.

[Reaper1]

Wow, I jsut watched the videos. That is an interesting problem for sure. I'd definatly pull the crank pulley...run it without it on there and see if the sound goes away. The dampener in it may have failed.

Another possibility(although not likely) is a failed crank snout. I dunno if the pulley would stay on it it was like that, but it is a possiblity.

Another one is a messed up oil pump. Maybe one of the gears in it is cracked or something?

I can't say it's bearings, but it could be. It's not a rod...too irregular IMHO. MAYBE first main bearing....

[Shadow24V]

yeah, i cant figure it out either. i have good oil pressure so it leads me to discount the oil pump but *shrug*

[Shadow24V]

well, i talked with Russ (owner of Tearstone performance, 3G eclipse and 24v 3.0 company) and depending on whats wrong with my motor, he suggested just replacing the whole motor. i dont know how much machining costs are in CT but worst case is resize the rods, and grind the crank, maybe even have to line bore the mains (not sure on this one) plus the cost of bearings and bolts. Then there is the down time. it could easily break $500 or more.

the upside is i can pick up another 24v 3.0 with 84K on it for $350, OR (and im still wondering about this as it would take a little more modification, but it MIGHT fit) is to nab a 3.5 for $275. Im leaning toward staying with the 3.0 due to its oversquare design and easier revving ability. Not to mention i KNOW that if i plug in a new 24v 3.0, it WILL work, no more screwing around re-tuning for a 3.5L

gonna have to think on this one a bit, anyone have any input?

[irocelectric93]

Well now thats just depressing. Id stay 3.0 myself.

[Ondonti]

I dont think you will need to touch the mains. It would take some massive damage to hurt our mains. I have never heard of anyone needing that done. Your crankshaft on the other hand.....It could be totally ruined. Hopefully it just needs a simple grind. Picking up another motor is probably very tempting though.

I would say you have a 200-350 dollar repair bill on the bottom end depending on your shop.

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
Try removing the belt & running the engine briefly. If the problem is external, the noise will stop. If it's still there it's serious. BTW, it is on the front, right?
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

if im looking at that kind of repair bill, i might as well buy that motor and get a free set of spare heads to build and whatnot. ill see whats dead when i pull the motor in a couple weeks before i buy anything. Im probably going to stay with the 3.0, id love to hear the motor with a 7500-8500 redline and a 5000-7500 powerband

hopefully i can afford the cams/cam gears/valvesprings i want to get but that'll be pricey...

[Shadow24V]

speedyEd, ill give that a shot today, along with pushing in the clutch to see if it goes away. from what i can tell, its toward the crank pully part of the bottom end

[dodgeshadowchik]

wow.... that sucks to hear! hope its nothing really bad!

If you want to talk me into selling my 24V to you.... you probably could, since my car sits and sits and sits.