P-body 24v updates

[Shadow24V]

will do brian and thanks

[Shadow24V]

well, got a lot done today, didn't get it all together but im getting REALLY close went to the J-yard this morning and got the connector i needed to wire up the eclipse alternator and scored a 2.5l lower intake manifold with injectors and injector wiring clips for $31.80. the 2.5 ran the same style injectors as the 360cc VR4 injectors i bought. the 3.0 injector bosses are taller to fit the smaller injectors, but the 2.5 LIM bolts right in yay for accumulating parts for the S/C plan

as for the car, got the front motor mount in, front header, oil filter relocation adapter and oil filter, mounted the PS pump and belt, and the CORRECT alternator and belt for the motor (although im still working on deciphering which wires i need to get it to work correctly, i think i got it but...see pic below) got both axles in, fixed a broken grease fitting on my rivers side ball joint (whats the interval for greasing those and the tierods anyways?) put a circlip (e-clip) on the side shifter cable to keep it from popping off, the top one stays on fine so no need to worry there. i think thats about it for today...

i dont have much left to put back together part-wise, and then all thats left is re-doing the wiring and adding fluids (amsoil full synth 5w30 in the motor and regular castrol 5w30 in the trans, and 50/50 coolant) and i should be able to fire her up

Heres a pic of the two injector bosses, 2.5 on top, 3.0 below



Alternator wiring - i think all i need are straight 12v, and switched 12v to the regulator and the output wire. i believe the 2 wires going to the ECU are for the OBD-II monitoring/volt gauge on the eclipse but im not sure....



and the new alternator installed, with more clearance to the radiator!



injectors, VR4 360cc on right, avenger 190cc on left. Look similar maybe?



360s installed on the 2.5 mani

[lookin]

5W-30!





ba da bing

[Shadow24V]

lol, 5w-30 is spec for the motor, and Advance didn't have any 0W20 amsoil

theres good and bad news:

Good news: fired the motor up last night and it ran ok for having been torn apart and sat for a month. New alternator is working just fine too, not sure about the new fan relay though...

Bad news: its smoking a bit but i THINK that it is the residual oil etc thats on the headers/motor from the blowout. Also, the distributor blockoff wont work, i need to put at least the distributor body back in as i need it to act as a thrust bearing. the blockoff allows too much endplay and i was getting some rubbing noises from the rear cam. My laptop refused to run Megatune in windows and the settings i needed to change on the ECU were not coded into Megatunix yet. This required a complete reinstallation of XP (that FINALLY decided to work right on the 3rd try at 1AM)

so im mostly there with a few things to tweak. With any luck, ill be able to take it around the block tonight

[Shadow24V]

ITS ALIVE!!!!
got the last few things ironed out tonight and took it round the block a time or two and for a nice hammer down the nearby straight. i forgot how torquey this thing was in 1st. going to be taking it to work tomorrow to see how it does. ~25psi oil pressure at hot idle and 50ish at cold start, didnt catch how high it went at 6000rpms though. no noises, or weird things, just a smooth running motor. oh, and i also finished my CAI too, no nylon stocking filter for me anymore lol

got some minor stuff to fix, new headlight, new foglights, new blinker, ziptie the bumper somehow, and mount the tach, other than that kind of stuff, its running great!

not too shabby for the first rebuild ive ever done

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
I hope you washed your hands before you took that ride.
Glad there's no noises. Why did you change the alternator? Which brand fog light are you putting on?
Congrats on your success!!!
SpeedyEd

[lookin]

Congratulations Shadow!


You must be very proud, and you should be.


I am so happy for you!

[ilh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V got the last few things ironed out tonight and took it round the block a time or two and for a nice hammer down the nearby straight. i forgot how torquey this thing was in 1st. going to be taking it to work tomorrow to see how it does. ~25psi oil pressure at hot idle and 50ish at cold start, didnt catch how high it went at 6000rpms though. no noises, or weird things, just a smooth running motor. oh, and i also finished my CAI too, no nylon stocking filter for me anymore lol

shadow, 'grats on your motor. i disagree with your break-in technique though.
did you break the cams in? and 6000 sounds like a bit much for the first run.

you know best for your own vehicle, but im curious.

[Shadow24V]

thanks all! :-D

Ed - the new alternator was the original one for the motor so the belt lines up right and i have more room (plus it'll make S/Cing it easier! hehehe)

ilh - they were only main and rod bearings, which run on a film of oil, ergo there is no physical contact and as long as you have oil pressure, they work. Nothing to break in etc. Also the cams are the original ones from the motor, i did not do anything to the top end, no disassembly etc so they are still good to go

some bad news though - ive developed a cooling issue and my speedo stopped working. i think my thermostat is stuck closed ang i got a replacement. im also going to try replacing the speedo sensor, but i might be screwed if the plastic gear is stripped...

[ilh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V ilh - they were only main and rod bearings, which run on a film of oil, ergo there is no physical contact and as long as you have oil pressure, they work. Nothing to break in etc. Also the cams are the original ones from the motor, i did not do anything to the top end, no disassembly etc so they are still good to go

Shadow,
This is a used oil analysis of my father's Ford truck. It's a 4.0L V6 that's running Mobil 1 5W-30 currently. 127,250kms are on the clock currently and the truck still has every of it's 207 ponies it came with. aside from a DPFE sensor a year ago, I have no drivetrain problems to report. (I do 99% of the maintenance.)



but why is it, if it's in such good condition, that 2ppm of lead is still present in the oil? the bearings will always wear in minute amounts.

think of this: Cummins designed the 6BT (the diesel motor found in all Dodge trucks) to have an oil film of 64 MILLIONTHS of an inch (that's 0.000064") on the main bearings. when you hit that throttle and the engine comes alive, what makes you think the crank wont shift 65 millionths of an inch?

be nice to your engine for a little while so it can be dependable to you for a long time. that's all im saying.

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
Which wires were used on the alt hook-up?
Was there any signs of wear on the old belt & alt. pulley from the misalignment?
How about the fog lights?
Did you wash your hands?
SpeedyEd

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V some bad news though - ive developed a cooling issue and my speedo stopped working. i think my thermostat is stuck closed ang i got a replacement. im also going to try replacing the speedo sensor, but i might be screwed if the plastic gear is stripped...

On the speed/distance sensor. Try unplugging and replugging it a few times before you replace it... I have seen that bring back what I thought was a dead sensor...

[Shadow24V]

ilh - point taken, i havent been beating on it on purpose anyways. if i have stomped on it, its AFTER its fully warmed up and been running for a bit. i had driven it around the block about 3 times (figure a mile or so) before i hit 1st and 2nd in a "spirited fashion"

Ed - just the red and white ones, and it works like a charm the old alt i had to use a 4-rib belt on the inside of the alt pulley and it rode on the outside 3 ribs and edgeline of the crank pully, wearing into the CAS sensor. Fog lights were walmart special $20 ones, nothing really nice, i was thinking of replacing them with the same *shrug* missed getting some REAL shadow ES ones on ebay the other night. Why would i wash my hands? i need to detail the thing anyway! lol

c2xejk - ill give that a shot, i didnt touch the sensor and it worked before....*shrug*


Update - i did fix the cooling issue, thermostat was stuck closed *grrr* but that is remedied. temps dont crack 210*. replaced the dead headlight and blinker, and im probably going to order the rear sway bar and some KYBs for the rear. havent gotten around to mounting the tach and i need to re-tune it, its running quite rich in the hot temps, i get backfires on deaccel, hard starting (feels like its over fuelling here) and idle bogs

[turbokid]

Hey shadow what would you pay for a set?
I have an es bumper with the fogs still in it
Q

[ilh]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V ilh - point taken, i havent been beating on it on purpose anyways. if i have stomped on it, its AFTER its fully warmed up and been running for a bit. i had driven it around the block about 3 times (figure a mile or so) before i hit 1st and 2nd in a "spirited fashion"

Shadow,

not trying to be your mum, just wanted to make sure your motor lasted.
my shop teacher preaches that after the initial 500mi you "break it in like you normally drive it."
apparently he built a motor for a Nova, back when he had his speed shop. they broke it in and then the customer "ran the bag out of it". never gave the customer any problems.

just my $0.02.