P-body 24v updates

[87turbodance]

I'm pretty sure the GM coils have a pretty low primary resistance. I measured mine to less than 1 ohm. I'd try to find an EDIS coil pack for sure just to be sure that you wont have any reliability issues. I'd hate to be cruising down the highway and have my car die because I cooked an ignition module. Just my 2 cents

[Shadow24V]

well, i looked up an accel EDIS coil and that has a primary resistance of 0.50 ohms. i also found the OEM specs on the GM coils, primary resistance is 0.35 - 1.5 ohms. AFAIK they should work fine given said information....then again, im not an electrical engineer lol.

besides, MS users have used a myriad of coilpacks on the EDIS module. Neon 4 towers, GMs, etc

[Shadow24V]

gah, i totally feel like giving up lately. i did the EDIS install, triple checked the wiring, settings, sensor mount etc. and guess what? NO ****ING SPARK! *sigh* i cant seem to find anything wrong with my install, yet i get no spark and no RPM input to the MS unit. the sensor is .028" away from the wheel, centered on both axis' ...... im just lost again

[shadetreeshop]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V gah, i totally feel like giving up lately. i did the EDIS install, triple checked the wiring, settings, sensor mount etc. and guess what? NO ****ING SPARK! *sigh* i cant seem to find anything wrong with my install, yet i get no spark and no RPM input to the MS unit. the sensor is .028" away from the wheel, centered on both axis' ...... im just lost again

you should have spark if the coils/module has power , & VR sensor isn't backwards, i found that on the bench with an Edis4 if i switched the vr wires it wouldn't spark!

and you need that choke on the B+ to the coils , found near edis 4/6/8 coils

[Shadow24V]

i found out about the VR sensor so i put spade connectors on them and tried it either way and still got no spark. and what do you mean with

Quote:

and you need that choke on the B+ to the coils , found near edis 4/6/8 coils

[Shadow24V]

ya know, some days i feel like the biggest dumbshit in the world lol. found out why the EDIS wasnt working... 3 of my crimped wires separated when i crammed em into that split-loom tubing, kinda hard for the EDIS to work without +12v lol *sigh* thats why ive begun to take more breaks and days off of working on the car so i can think shit through and not break things from being frustrated.

well, now that i HAVE spark finally, im going to make sure the limp-home mode is giving me 10*, then i can try and get her running again!

[c2xejk]

I don't know what kind of crimper you are using, but I have had the best success with a ratcheting crimper. With it there is no guessing "did I squeeze hard enough???" It doesn't release until it has crimped sufficiently.

The other tactic is to crimp and solder it (for connectors...) Then you can use some heat shrink tubing to cover the connection. Or just solder for butt connections... (I like to use a torch for most wire solders....)

[Shadow24V]

i do have a $35 (i think) ratcheting crimper, and i usually double crimp both ends. im just trying to get it running right now, so crimps are easier and faster (time constraint) but as soon as i get her running and all that jazz, im going to take a weekend or so and sit down with an iron, lots of solder and heat-shrink tubing/tape and re-do all the connections so they wont pull apart on me like that.

[Tim_K]

I've used ratcheting crimpers to put pin ends on wires, and they work very well. If you want an extra hard crimp, set the crimper to 1 gauge smaller than what it should be at. (set it to 20 gauge for an 18 gauge connector).

They produce consistent results and have been very reliable for me.

[Ondonti]

where do you guys get the ratcheing crimpers?
I wish I knew how to solder too.


Your car should be able to start up on the limp mode right?

[Shadow24V]

the ratcheting crimper i bought at my local Advance Auto store for like $20-$30 IIRC. and its not the cheap kind, its a decent one. as for soldering, its not that hard, it takes a little practice and a steady hand usually. i wish i knew how to weld so

yeah, she should be able to start in limp home as spark advance will be limited to 10* unless the EDIS receives a SAW signal from the MS. i hope to maybe have her running tonight!

[87turbodance]

I'm looking forward to some good news. Is the crank sensor on your motor a VR sensor or a hell-effect sensor? Ever look at the wheel at all?

[Shadow24V]

in the MS install instructions, the pinouts they acquired for the EDIS plugs list it as a VR sensor. so at low RPM its output voltage is low, and as RPMs increase, the voltage can hit 50v+.

yes i have looked at the wheel a bit, i had to weld it onto my stock crank pully. as far as i can tell, it is just a steel toothed wheel that interrupts a magnetic field in the VR sensor.

see MegaSquirt.info --> ignition --> ford EDIS for more info and technical documentation

[87turbodance]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V in the MS install instructions, the pinouts they acquired for the EDIS plugs list it as a VR sensor. so at low RPM its output voltage is low, and as RPMs increase, the voltage can hit 50v+. yes i have looked at the wheel a bit, i had to weld it onto my stock crank pully. as far as i can tell, it is just a steel toothed wheel that interrupts a magnetic field in the VR sensor. see MegaSquirt.info --> ignition --> ford EDIS for more info and technical documentation

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I mean the factory crank sensor and wheel on your motor not the EDIS stuff

[Shadow24V]

its a VR sensor on the 24v too. that one triggers 3x per 360*