P-body 24v updates

[Shadow24V]

lol, point taken :) (at least my g/f says if "Lucy" is the only other girl she has to deal with, ill live )

that makes sense on the plug gap etc. ill keep that in mind when i start the bigger upgrades.

I also decided to go with the RPW stage 3 grind over the stage 2. go big or go home right? also, no one has run the stage 3s yet and i talked with a club3g member with stage 2s and he was a little disappointed. he suggested the stage 3s given that i already have a standalone and can actually USE the stage 3s

i still need to scrounge a head for KMP to play with before getting mine PnPed...

[Reaper1]

I agree with ED..beware of the scorned woman for sure!! LOL ALL of my cars are VERY jealous...you give one the least little bit more attention, one of the others will mess up!! Blondi(my Shelby Z), has been the most tolerant by far, but I think that's becuase she knows she's the favorite! LOL She still has her moments though... I'm just surprised she's not jealous of Elvira(my motorcycle)...doesn't seem to phase her in the least...which is good! LOL

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V i still need to scrounge a head for KMP to play with before getting mine PnPed...

Actually, I found a pair cheap on e-bay and have been working with them. The 24v head responds really well to porting... The setup I have been working on was for a 3.5L, for the 3L I think some epoxy in the intake runners is called for to bring the velocity up...

[Shadow24V]

sweet! :) the 3.5, 3.0 and 2.5 heads are all the same except for the cams.

would the epoxy for velocity still be beneficial when i stick the M90 on?

i wish i had the $500 for the PnP right now, my spare heads are sitting in the basement (all fine except for the bent valves...)

[c2xejk]

Since the air is compressed, yes you will get the greatest gains for the 3.0L and 2.5L by decrease the area of the port. The 3.5L is just on the border of the ports being the right size...

[Shadow24V]

at least i know you know your $hit :) im saving my pennies already lol

[Shadow24V]

well, got a fair bit done, but i have some more questions :)

i got the gearset installed with the shift forks (got the 3-4 pads from a dealer in WA for 6.22 each :) )all the bearings and races installed, but i can't remember if there was a place for the second smaller plastic oil feeder part. the larger grey one went behind the secondary shaft bearing in the front of the case, but its been a few weeks since i tore the trans apart so i don't know where it goes or if i need it at all and i cant find anything in the FSM about it either..... :confused2:

Also, aside from trying to buy the special tool 6252 for tightening the 5th gear input shaft retaining nut, is there any way to tighten it? i have a torque multiplier (normally used for lugnuts) that i was thinking of using and putting the lever part against the 5th gear shift rod, but im a little iffy about putting 220ft lbs of force on the shift rod

Once i finish up with all the stuff above, all that's left is assembling 5th gear, the LSD and diff shimming and shimming the input shaft and the new trans will be good to go (with the new clutch and aluminum flywheel of course :) )

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
What year is the trans? Was the kit you bought for just that year or several? Sometimes there is extra parts to cover different versions. Sometimes the FSM has the info in another section. I'll see if I can borrow your year book Mon.
Perhaps a strap wrench on the output gear to hold it, or try to rent the 6252 tool from your friendly Dodge dealer. Don't mangle the shift rod.
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedyEd Hey Shadow, What year is the trans? Was the kit you bought for just that year or several? Sometimes there is extra parts to cover different versions. Sometimes the FSM has the info in another section. I'll see if I can borrow your year book Mon. Perhaps a strap wrench on the output gear to hold it, or try to rent the 6252 tool from your friendly Dodge dealer. Don't mangle the shift rod. SpeedyEd

92, i have a 93 FSM that covers all 4 maunals 523,543,5something and the 568

Yeah, i was going to call today about the tool. somehow i don't think a strap wrench will hold 220 ft lbs of torque lol

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
I'll try to mooch the '92 book, in case that oil feeder is for a different year.
I can't remember what the trick was for tightening that nut without the tool. Once you get past 25, it's all down hill. I'll check my memory banks for that too.
SpeedyEd

[Reaper1]

4 manual trannies in '93?! HUH? The only FWD manual trannies I know of for that year are 523/543/568. The 578(Neon) tranny wasn't out until '95 IIRC.

[Shadow24V]

it could be 3, i don't have it in front of me ATM lol

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
I got the '93 FSM & it shows the "Oil Trough" inserted in the "Bearing Retainer Plate" pointing to the "Rear End Cover". There is a groove in the cover that directs the oil to the 5th speed synchro.(page 21-7 fig. 2)
There is a second oil trough on the opposite side of the bearing retainer plate, pointing to the 3-4 shift fork.(page 21-13 fig.31) In that picture you can see the oil trough on both sides of the "Bearing Support Plate".
In the Mopar Parts List for '92 it is called "Oil Scoop" pt. #04431850, quantity 1, & is shown pointing toward the 3-4 shift fork.
Is there an oil groove in the Rear End Cover on your tranny? Was your original oil trough long enough to stick out of both sides of the bearing plate? Can the G/F find happiness in a RX 7?
Only the Shadow knows!
SpeedyEd

[Shadow24V]

the trough is there and i do have the groove cast into the end plate with the metal oil feeder going into the secondary shaft. the oil trough is probably 6"-8" long as well

as for the G/F, who knows, gotta rebuild the 7's motor first lol

[SpeedyEd]

Hey Shadow,
How long is the other trough? Is there something on the 3-4 shift fork to receive oil? Did you see the other trough by the mech.'s thumb in fig. 31?
Can you use an open end wrench to hold the input shaft?(butted against the intermediate shaft, with a wood or plastic shaft protector).
SpeedyEd