AWD and bad decisions

[Ondonti]

I dont think I want custom axles and the larger track width is okay with me. I prefer the install to be as non custom as possible so parts are more easily replaceable.

We will see if the guy will even sell me the car. so far no response.

Spare parts will all go in my spirit.

[Ondonti]

Woot guy responded.
We will see how this goes
I called my mom yesterday and told her what I was trying to buy. Im gonna take lots of pictures of it so I can show her that I threw away the nicest car I ever owned lol.

[turbomini]

wow this is going to be sweet if this works out! i'm chearing you on!

[mightymulhern]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti I called my mom yesterday and told her what I was trying to buy.

Did she tell you to get a job?

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mightymulhern Did she tell you to get a job?

In February I will probably have to since school will over for me.

[lookin]

Nonsense. You forget the customary post graduate 6 month layabout slump. I believe it required.

[mightymulhern]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lookin Nonsense. You forget the customary post graduate 6 month layabout slump. I believe it required.

Agreed. I graduated in may and screwed around until roughly January/February before even leaving my college town and starting to look for a job. ...and then at the end of May the beginning of my "career" began which I look forward to leaving in oh... 33 more years.

[lookin]

Mike that sounds pretty bleak. Really you don't know what may come your way regardless. So live in the now, and enjoy the moment.

/soapbox

[phantomrt]

I had the engine/trans out of my TT Stealth for the entire summer. During that time, I contemplated what it would take to get that AWD drivetrain into a K-based Chrysler. The ironic things are, the two cars are not all that dimensionally dissimilar. The Stealth is a small car. The track is going to be wider no doubt, but I always figured the track on a G-body should be wider anyhow. Use the 3S front and rear subframes.

To tow dolley the AWD car... quite easy actually. Right behind the transfer case is part of the 3-piece drive shaft or "propeller shaft" or whatever they call it. It unbolts. Literally four bolts, slide it out of the transfer case, and you can have that disconnected, and you can tow it with the rear wheels on the ground. That driveshaft is probably shot anyway unless it has been replaced at one time or another. The grease in the U-joints has probably dried up by now, they are ungreaseable, and are NON-serviceable! You're looking at at least $650 for a replacement 3-piece propeller shaft unless you know a good machinist who can modify the driveshaft for a different sized U-joint.

There may be some parts from that car I'd be interested in. I would want the DOHC bottom end and the dual exhaust pipes in the rear of the car if it is in good shape. Get Ebay fired up and part the car out. You'll get the $$$ you invested in the car back. Unless it is a total POS and nothing is any good. The output shaft's spline to the transfer case likely has some serious wear to it... not all that difficult or expensive to replace. I bought the cheap one off of Ebay, but it actually looks to be a quality piece, and all fit perfectly. But that fricken seal around the output shaft requires the transmission to be disassembled for proper installation since it slides into place from the INSIDE. The seal is $45 at Mitsubishi.
My Stealth still has some issues, but nevertheless, it has run about 190 miles on its own power now. A few tweaks and bugs to work out, and it'll be a sure terror of the tarmac.

[Ondonti]

Talked to the guy on the phone today. I think shipping will be bothersome for me to figure out but I am going to try Webster services because they are a cheaper place that doesnt just have tons of fake feedback (either bashing or created by the company).

The car was actually running 4 months ago. Blew the motor. He parted out the turbos and ECU.

So I will have 2 broken (1 bad piston that replaced his previously spun bearing motor) dohc longblocks lol

The wheelbase difference between the P body and 3/S car is 5 mm which is basically nothing since I will be the one who decides where the rear subframe goes.

If I had to replace the driveshaft someday I would try to buy a carbon fiber 1 piece as they are stronger and save about 30 pounds or something ridiculous like that.

The car is in good shape but it was being converted to a track car when it blew up (ABS disabled, rear interior removed etc).

Its an 18 spline so its not the best when it comes to output shafts. the output shaft is definitly an issue that I dont understand well yet. Im not really worried about things breaking as I honestly dont sweat that anymore. Making things fit will be my challenge.

I think the transfer case also comes with a support bracket
If I break it there are cast stainless steel or billet aluminum replacements out now

I realised a few days ago that the power steering setup will be a problem so I will probably have to convert to manual steering.
Ive already got a lot of ideas going around about the side mounts and the front and transmission mount should be easy. Those ideas were with the stock chrysler mounts.

The car comes with solid mounts though so likely I will try to adapt those. Also has solid front subframe bushings (not installed). I would like some solid bushings for the rear too though and they are not sold seperatly

[phantomrt]

Either way, this will be a totally awesome project, and with time, space, and patience, you will be successful. I will even make a road trip out west to see it for myself. How does July sound? Too early? You're getting a really good deal on the car if its costing more to ship it.

The output shaft thing definitely isn't anything you cannot handle. The 25 spline must be just a bigger shaft since they had issues with them breaking the smaller ones. The 25's still break, but consider how much smaller of a car it is going into. In order to convert to the larger shaft, I think you may have to do something with the VCU. The shaft itself is easy to replace. But there's a gear on the transfer case coupler that needs to be pressed off to install on the new coupler, and a 20 ton press didn't budge mine. Others had success with a 12 ton. A bigger press=no problem getting that done.
That fricken carbon fiber drive shaft is $1100. Eeek. There should be good gains by going with one, but lets just say that I need a better job first....

I went to a couple custom driveshaft shops to address my driveshaft issue. It appears that they don't do much for custom work. They cannot bore the hole bigger and machine in a snap ring groove? I guess not.

[Ondonti]

well I wouldnt make any plans yet. Stuff never seems to go on the time table I would like.

[phantomrt]

I am contemplating plans on a road trip to Oregon/Northern CA next summer pretty much for the heck of it anyway. Just being touristy... never hurts to meet people, share ideas, etc

[Ondonti]

We will see what happens. NOPI announced a race event this july so july might really be a good time to come out . I will work my butt off to either have a crazy FWD car there or a slow custom AWD car

[phantomrt]

I think this post should be renamed to AWD and GOOD decisions.