Fidanza flywheel?

[Marcus86GLHS]

wow. take a chill pill. i was not tricked, come on man give me a break that is so silly to say to me, and how do you know i have never used an aluminum flywheel?

both of these flywheels types are great upgrades over the stock units, i'll say it a third time. but i think you need a little more education on flywheels and i'll leave it at that sir. i am only adding information to the discussion not trying to "talk someone else into buying one".

i don't know if you are aware of the benefits of inertia in racing. for example, one benefit of a heavier flywheel is the interia it preserves between shifts as well as the intertia it maintains when leaving the line in a drag race, more crankshaft momentum is preserved w/ a heavier flywheel. this allows the engine to maintain rpm w/ more consistancy. in addition, one should consider whether the crankshaft is forged (heavier) or cast (lighter)....with a cast crank and an aluminum flywheel, if you are drag racing you may find you are not able to achieve a better 60 foot time, even though your wheel hp might be up a tad. these factors are important, testing is a great way to determine optimum flywheel weight.

there are trade-offs when lowering the weight of a flywheel including durability. the torsional stability of billet steel is an advantage over aluminum, but then again, aluminum will free up power to the wheels. aluminum flywheels are not allowed in many classes of NHRA racing. this might be important for some folks i don't know its not important to me.

$350 is a lot of money for some yes i agree but it is well within my budget.

anyways, good discussion.

[glhs727]

+1 on what Marcus said about inertia, etc....Not every application wants a 8 lb FW,

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti . stock 16lb (free) yay steel 14lb ($300+) Aluminum 8lb ($300+) yay

The 8v flywheels are 18 pounds, and the t3 flywheel is closer to 19 lbs. So using a LW steel FW at 14 lbs is about 20-25% lightler. Not everyone wants a 8 pound FW, and in the case of the t3 guys, your crank sensor will still work. Plus in some racing clasees you cannot use a aluminum FW, so this is a good alternative.
later,
Cindy

[onecrazyphucker]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhs727 Plus in some racing clasees you cannot use a aluminum FW, so this is a good alternative. later, Cindy

How would anyone know??

[3.0l Sleeper]

well Jory, since were talking about putting a lightweight flywheel on your 3.0l I would say go for it. When I did the 5 speed swap, I decided to go with the t2/t3 clutch and Fidanza Alum flywheel, and like Brent said "totally different motor" It's probably one of my favorite things to drive, also suggest a short throw shifter or just cut a few inches off of your stock one

[Ondonti]

Lol cindy.

You guys have built and DRIVEN what. ZERO 3.0's

The OLDSCHOOL TD guys who played with 3.0's a lil will even say they love them on the 3.0.

8lb flywheel rocks the socks!

Steel Fidanza is a worthless product for the 3.0 because the 3.0 has ZERO of the 2.2/2.5's problems regarding bogging on shifts.

That would be why NOBODY buys steel flywheels for Stealth 6g72's. They either use an aluminum one or they use stock steel!

The bar has been set for the motor and "what works" is already figured out.

The only reason to use heavy flywheel on 3.0 is if you are saving $ (great reason) or if you are at the HP limits of the crankshaft (heavier flywheel will help stabalize the crank and prevent it from flexing when you are are at the HP limit). Its documented over and over and over on the 6g72. 2.2/2.5 logic doesnt apply.

I can get the phone number to 3-4 6g72 vendors who will back me up on this.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marcus86GLHS wow. take a chill pill. i was not tricked, come on man give me a break that is so silly to say to me, and how do you know i have never used an aluminum flywheel? both of these flywheels types are great upgrades over the stock units, i'll say it a third time. but i think you need a little more education on flywheels and i'll leave it at that sir. i am only adding information to the discussion not trying to "talk someone else into buying one". i don't know if you are aware of the benefits of inertia in racing. for example, one benefit of a heavier flywheel is the interia it preserves between shifts as well as the intertia it maintains when leaving the line in a drag race, more crankshaft momentum is preserved w/ a heavier flywheel. this allows the engine to maintain rpm w/ more consistancy. in addition, one should consider whether the crankshaft is forged (heavier) or cast (lighter)....with a cast crank and an aluminum flywheel, if you are drag racing you may find you are not able to achieve a better 60 foot time, even though your wheel hp might be up a tad. these factors are important, testing is a great way to determine optimum flywheel weight. there are trade-offs when lowering the weight of a flywheel including durability. the torsional stability of billet steel is an advantage over aluminum, but then again, aluminum will free up power to the wheels. aluminum flywheels are not allowed in many classes of NHRA racing. this might be important for some folks i don't know its not important to me. $350 is a lot of money for some yes i agree but it is well within my budget. anyways, good discussion.

Like I said in my other post, the 3.0 doesnt have bogging problems on shifts. Even AWD + 4 slicks in a 3000gt. As long as you are a good driver you will have no problems. I could chirp 4th gear on my n/a spirit at 4500 feet elevation with very tall 225/60r15 tires on a lil 8lb flywheel. Just takes an aggressive driver. I would rather have more acceleration during each gear then more wheelspin when I shift!

There is no "you may find better..."
The 3.0 doesnt bog. You just cant do it. Best 3.0 60's on street tires are with 8lb flywheel. Thank you josh. Thats with no fancy suspension setup or balancing or LSD and no drag radials.

When you race a street tire'd 3.0 you launch @ 2000 rpms with an 8lb flywheel. On slicks you just increase the launch RPM.


People use the stock flywheel when they make 800+hp because it will protect the crankshaft but.

For people with 100-500hp it doesnt matter at all. Even with the cast crankshaft. Chrysler 6g72's have real harmonic dampeners that the Mitsubishi's dont have so they already have more protection from the factory.

[jory]

Good discussion, thanks ondonti you made some very good points.

[onecrazyphucker]

I couldn't find one thing I disliked about my fidanza aluminum flywheel. It was totally awesome. It felt like a completely different engine. I would still lay rubber when I shifted to 2nd real fast. That is on 225/50/15's. I would also chirp 3rd and 4th at the track. I NEVER had issues with bogging. That flywheel should be on ALL 3.0Ls IMO.

I think the flywheel helped me get races at lights. I'd rev it up and ppl would look at me like DAMN! It would rev from idle to the rev limiter in probably a half a second

For anyone thinking it will hurt the 60ft, I have a HUGE STACK of time slips with consistant 2.0 - 2.1 60 fts. My record is 2.03 on all seasons

[jory]

Oh man that is awesome! I need to get me one of these soon!

[onecrazyphucker]

Yes, you do. It is one of the best bang for the buck mods you can do.

[Ondonti]

The driving experience of a aluminum flywheel 3.0 is just fun! You just have to learn to drive the car to match the flywheel weight. I learned how to drive 5 speed on a 4 puck ceramic clutch and an 8lb aluminum flywheel. Needless to say I stalled the car a few times when I was learning and anyone who would get into that car to drive would stall in the first time but most people could pick it up after 2-3 mistakes.

[The Pope]

I love the aluminum flywheel I have, I wonder how much power can it handle? Thats my only worry. The 2.2 turbo crowd should know they have less lag with one, the engine winds up faster. I added a under drive pulley and an aluminum flywheel at the same time, you can't believe how they wind up. 8lbs way out away from the center of the crank matters, in regards to the lieghteded steel flywheel the weigh farther out being removed is what you feel. So the lightened steel is going to do more than the 4lbs sounds as the holes are out near the edge. I don't feel much loss from a steel crank either, the radius of weight is really low. I have a friend with a 2.5L turbo T top tank Daytona that weighs nearly what a van weighs, he launches at a lower RPM at the drags now, not higher RPM. The 2.5 though winds up a bit fast anyway, and the flywheel will makes it spin more. I also am buying one for my 2.2 with a 525 trans, less shock on the shifts may help the POS 525 last a bit longer. I also have wondered if the softer aluminum is absorbing some vibration, anyone else notice there car has less vibrations with them?

Rob

[irocelectric93]

Dang it stop talking about it. I went out and looked at mine....so shiny! i want it in my car NOW! Too bad its snowy everywhere....

[mopar3.0]

mines sitting on the floor in a box too. beed to decide what clutch to go with my t3 plate

and on a side note my duster got delivered and it pulls likea raped ape stock
god love the light weight cant wait to get the 10.1 engine with cams am mega squirt in there, !!!!

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Pope I love the aluminum flywheel I have, I wonder how much power can it handle? Thats my only worry. The 2.2 turbo crowd should know they have less lag with one, the engine winds up faster. I added a under drive pulley and an aluminum flywheel at the same time, you can't believe how they wind up. 8lbs way out away from the center of the crank matters, in regards to the lieghteded steel flywheel the weigh farther out being removed is what you feel. So the lightened steel is going to do more than the 4lbs sounds as the holes are out near the edge. I don't feel much loss from a steel crank either, the radius of weight is really low. I have a friend with a 2.5L turbo T top tank Daytona that weighs nearly what a van weighs, he launches at a lower RPM at the drags now, not higher RPM. The 2.5 though winds up a bit fast anyway, and the flywheel will makes it spin more. I also am buying one for my 2.2 with a 525 trans, less shock on the shifts may help the POS 525 last a bit longer. I also have wondered if the softer aluminum is absorbing some vibration, anyone else notice there car has less vibrations with them? Rob

More weight is a good thing for stopping the vibrations. Thats why the 800hp+ club of 3000gt's all run stock flywheels because they want all the weight they can get on the crankshaft to prevent it from flexing and cracking (weakness at those power levels).

I think balancing the engine is what will make the vibrations that you feel be less obvious. Lighter flywheel should make it a bit worse but it might not make a noticeable difference.