stroker kit

[whE3Ls]

ok i found this stroker kit for the 6g72 and im wondering if it would work with our motors, one other question, would a 3.5 crank fit in our blocks? thanks


Mitsubishi Stroker Kits at Import Performance Parts

[Reaper1]

That sounds a lot like the RPW kit from years ago. I don't know if it is the same thing though. I know Charlotte (Rick Lozier's old car) has a stroker in it. I wonder when the last time that site was updated? RPW doesn't advertise the stroker kit anymore...

[Ondonti]

Thats the stroker kit that everyone complained about and which broke in robs car when it hydrolocked.

Brian Crower is coming out with a 6g72 stroker kit if you are a baller though. Its only available through IPS (a 6g72 vendor).
That means billet cranks etc.

There are now 3 ways to reliably stroke your 6g72.

Billet crank motor completely assembled from Ray Pampenas machinist

6g75 crank in a 6g72 block (lots of machine work needed) all from Ray's machinist

Brian Crower kit (not assembled).

[Reaper1]

I remember people complaining about a stroker hit, but I can't remember about what? Remind me please! LOL

[whE3Ls]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Thats the stroker kit that everyone complained about and which broke in robs car when it hydrolocked. Brian Crower is coming out with a 6g72 stroker kit if you are a baller though. Its only available through IPS (a 6g72 vendor). That means billet cranks etc. There are now 3 ways to reliably stroke your 6g72. Billet crank motor completely assembled from Ray Pampenas machinist 6g75 crank in a 6g72 block (lots of machine work needed) all from Ray's machinist Brian Crower kit (not assembled).

any word on a price?

how much machine work? and how big could i go ?

[Ondonti]

People always complaining about stuff...I dont know if their complaints were valid.


The stroker kit from import performance is worthless IMO because most of the displacement gain is from larger bore and not stroke increase. And it weakens the crank which is not something we want to do.

Billet Ray motor is 10,500ish fully assembled.
6g75 crank in 6g72 block is 5,500 fully assembled and machined.
Brian crower is unknown but probably 6,000 for only the parts then you need to pay for machien work which might be extensive.

[whE3Ls]

thats not too bad i guess. wouldnt it be cheaper to just put a 6g74 and trans instead of the 6g72and trans

[Ondonti]

6g74 bolts to 6g72 trans.

You must find a way to make the 6g74 engine run in your chrysler. There are soooo many options.

The coolest one by far is the 3.8L sohc 24v MIVEC 6g75 from the 4th Gen eclipses.
The do some work on the heads and they are 360+cfm type heads on stock valves. Better then Chevy LS7 heads (the heads on the 505hp zo6) plus you have smaller cylinders to fill. Stock they still outflow almost anything.
You need engine management capable of switching the cam profiles as RPM's increase (window switch) which is actually really easy to do (supposedly).
Those engines will do 300whp+ n/a and turbocharged with forged internals it is supposed that there is no limit. The 3.8L MIVEC heads are made for the larger bore and they dont have the weak deck problems like the DOHC do so you can make insane power without headgasket problems (probably 2000hp). 3.8L MIVEC has the Best stock mitsu crank (6g75) and the best heads for both flow and strength. I dont think the crank would handle 2000hp very long but the heads would be capable of it most likely. When you get that insane then you look into billet cranks that are in the 6g72's etc.
Nelson Performance Pro has a 4.9L crank for a 6g75 which they cant currently use because the new main bearing girdle gets in the way of their custom oil pan and gets in the way of a few things.


But yes, the 3.0 could be upgraded to 4.9L if you were a baller and really crazy.
Really crazy would be having a 4.9L turbo FWD car capable of 2000+ hp on alcohol. Im pretty sure nobody would ever even think about that except me :P
Really stupid idea.

[Shadow24V]

lol, if i had found out about the 6G74 earlier, id probably have a 3.5L duster. but right now, my ULTIMATE goal is a supercharged (or twin-charged) AWD P-body that looks bone stock. now to get the $6000 or more i need to actually DO that.....

[Ondonti]

If you can build an AWD P body I honestly think you have one of the ultimate streetcar platforms on the planet...since you will weigh about 750 pounds less then any comparable car with no expensive weight savings.

And that platform will LOVE a big displacement 6g7x.

[Shadow24V]

not to mention i could USE the low end power instead of spinning the tires all the time. although i think id stay with the 3.0 and boost the hell out of it as its a bit better revving than the 3.5. i can see doing some headwork, and cams and spinning my 24v up to about 9 grand

i think it can be done fairly easily though. someone's already done a RWD P-body, so the basic how-to mod the K frame has been done, im running a standalone so thats not an issue, rotate the motor 180* and add the rear drive assembly with a custom driveshaft and voila! AWD

[whE3Ls]

what 4.9 all i wanted was 4.ol but i think i have a new goal. awd 4.9 turbo caravan. um that over a 50% increase but all i want is 1000hp thou.

[Ondonti]

Well 4.9L is totally unrealistic. That crank was meant for a race car that might never get built so it will never be used.

[mwinkle353]

Ok, first of all, Rob C never had the stroker kit in his 88 van. It was built with the 10:1 CR pistons. That was the motor that sucked up the lake and hydro-locked.


Now, as for the stroker kit from IPP, Rob, Jeremy, and one other (I can't remember his name), when they had a parts supply business for our 3.0's; looked at the components and made a choice as to not carry it in their line-up due to a couple factors.

1. Since the crank is a stroker, and they use the stock rods, how else do they prevent the piston from slapping the head during operation??? They raise the Rod-pin bore of the piston. Ok, from this little tidbit of information, since most of our cars are having issues of blowing out the lower ring lands on boosted motors (most common failure), having the rod-pin bore raised will thin out that area even more. Thus causing a common failure issue to become worse in the stroker motor. (I think that using the proper ring gap (I.E. wider than the stock limits) might prevent this issue.)

2. Since this stroker kit is made from offsetting the crank by machining it, the forged crank has to be used. Forged cranks, albeit much stronger, are much heavier than a cast crank. With that said, the internal rotating mass is greatly increased. (Maybe using a lighter flywheel could offset the weight just a hair, and not be as obvious upon acceleration and deceleration of the motor)



I wish Rob or Jeremy were here to validate this. Or, even, add to it if I had missed something.

[Ondonti]

I thought he had 10:1 and stroker....