Well, my Shadow is a 2.2/A523 w/3.77 FD ratio, but I have made an observation that might help the guys/gals "tuning" their cars, turbo, NA, or V6.
In the winter(from October1 to February28 here in Montana), they dope the gas as high as 20% Ethanol "to reduce winter emissions from idling and startup". Most people here have those remote starters, and will let the cars/trucks idle as long as 10 minutes before actually driving them. So, they dope the gas. In my car, I crank it, let it idle for 2-3minutes(or until it goes closed-loop, signified by a slight drop in RPM on my 2.2 from 1400(open loop idle) to around 900(closed loop idle). I have a custom-installed traveler in my car, and it's accurate according to calculations. In the summer, I can lock the cruise in at 65MPH and hit an instantaneous reading of 45-50ish on flat ground, ambient temp of 80degF, CAI removed(I lock the cruise, and run the car for at least 10 miles on flat road, watching the traveler). My average for city/hwy combined stays around the 23-24MPG mark, and I have a heavy foot sometimes. In the winter, the average will drop to around 19 mark, and the same 65MPH test will render only about 35-40MPG instantaneous, ambient temp of 30degF. I can dump a bottle of 106 octane booster on top of the 89octane pump gas in winter, and my numbers will return to normal summer driving. This is why I don't try to test mods in the winter, as the ethanol content makes my mileage suck.
And just for the record, here's the "hookup":
'89 Dodge Shadow 4-dr 2.2L with '93 A523/3.77FD with Quaife LSD
Omni airbox modified for CAI
Holley TBI unit from '89 LeBaron Coupe with Holley injector for 2.2L
custom 1/2" aluminum TBI spacer on top of factory phenolic spacer
2" exhaust with hi-flow cat and dual-tip turbo muffler from a Shadow ES
Hatch/fin from a '88 Shadow ES
Factory 14" steelies with 185/70sR14 Merit radial from Les Schwab(s-rated)
rear raised 1.25" from factory spec with '93 NYer rear coils
front coils from '88 ES
Monroe Sens-a-trac shocks/struts
AC removed
full-size spare(donut bracket removed)
presently running unequal-length axles. Have I-shaft for equal length, just too cold to drop it in yet.
I plan on dyno-ing the car this summer, as I've just added the extra spacer under the TBI. The Holley unit has a different throat design to the standard Bosche(top half will interchange), and seems to atomize the fuel better.
I know it took twice as much M85 to get the same power as pump gas, but seeing the numbers, it's the same story with ethanol.
TurboDodge.com 
Well, excccccuuuuussee ME!
So I'll finish up as it could be used by people with a turbo 3.0 done right.
So if you cruize (in a real city) at 70-90 you should be fine, you'll go open on a hill or passing and stay in closed under some vac the rest of the time. 3" exhaust sheads heat faster, On jays Daytona and a 2.5 @ 16:1 the exhaust is coming out ice cold and the sniffer can't get a reading without a cat. Even without a cat the emission place sticks there foot over the tail pipe to get a reading. Lastly a small 2 1/4" cat is going to get really hot and may want to melt. Run a big free flowing exhaust to cool it. Emissions want small exhaust to heat a cat, 16:1 will do that faster, run bigger exhaust to not over heat it.
Oh and just checked some records....actually put a brand new thermostat in it not long ago. Just a carquest one....whatever that happens to be. I think its time for a complete tuneup...at least a coil wires and plugs. The plugs might still be good but it cant hurt. I think i might put a new dizzy in it too since im going to be driving it all the time to school.....the good news is the iroc wont be getting more miles put on it 
