Who sells 3.0 Magnacore kv-85 wires? part # 6514

[venom800tt]

Cool, that was like reading a book with lots of info on it, Thanks for taking the time to write it.

[Reaper1]

LOL...that's a GREAT reason to stick with something: 'cause it doesn't piss me off too much! LOL

[FireCore50]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Well thats just bogus then. There is no such thing as a "real" 1, 2, 3, 4, ...8..10..n spark plug wire. Thats total hype he is using. Read Aurora's website and their claims. Their claims backed up what magnacore says (that people, including aurora use fake spiral winding to create a low resistance reading on a 1 volt DC omhmmeter) so I am buying the magnacores that dont use a fake low resistance wire to trick people. Here is a cutaway of the Aurora plug wire. Its EXACTLY the same as almost any other performance plug wire except that its 400 ohms instead of the lower readings of other wires. The only thing good I see about these wires is the connectors look better. Otherwise, they use less fake low resistance wires (thats why they read 400 ohms not 50). Magnacore doesnt use fake low resistance spiral wire. The actual wire in the middle (that aurora pretends is for structure) is the actual HIGH RESISTANCE wire that has the job of moving the electrical charge. All performance wires including magnacores have a similar center made of the same high resistance wire. They use it because it helps with suppression of interference. Magnacore wraps high resistance stainless steel wire around the core to help increase supression. Other companies wrap low resistance wire (to give fake low resistance readings - path of least resistance) and then since their wrap job DOES NOT help with suppression, they add the thick layer of EDPM insulation (aurora, MSD, Taylors, and EVERYONE else) because their spiral wrapping is fake. Magnacors are just the center 2.5mm of ferrite conductor, the stainless steel wrap, and then a very thick coating of silicone (for heat resistance) Until the wires are 8.5mm or 10mm thick. The auroras there (just like the MSD, taylor etc) have that extra EDPM in the middle because their cheap (cheap!) wrap doesnt do anything but fake low resistance. Then they add silicone tillt he wire is 8.5 or 10 mm. Thicker wires dont have more conductor, just more insulation against high temps of your engine bay. Most wire manufacturers fake low resistance because they want to pretend their wire is similar to a low resistance single core wire (which doesnt work with todays cars). They dont tell you that the low resistance is fake (the tiny low resistance wire they wrap around doesnt actually carry the 40,000volts from your coil)

Dude, although you tried, you are not correct in most of your interpetation of how ignition wires work, especially pretending to be the guru of explaining manufacturer's process's and methods of construction. MSD's are wound tightly, in fact Firecore50's(not FYREWIRES) and MSD Superconductors both have 3.5 feet of copper/nickel windings in 1 inch of core. You are correct in the silicone giving protection to the core, but the Kevlar, ours being the only manufature who uses 100%, is used for strength while processing ,and manufacturing of the cable,the core in particular, and does nothing electrically for the spark. The core of a wire is what is the magic of a good ignition wire. The consistancy of current by which it allows measures the quality of spark you will end up with . Ohm's law is very important. E = I X R . That remains the rule. You are correct in saying some resistance is good. It allows for absorpton of the EMI and RFI. The cylinder of the core is what gives electricity its path, and only path of least resistance. You need a smooth path for a consistant spark path. You said it doesn't travel down the core of spiral-wound wire. Where does it travel , then ? By Corona effect ?

Imagine this. You have a boat, travelling on a rough lake at 3500 rpm. Maybe 20 MPH. Same boat, same RPM, but on a perectly smooth lake, much higher speed. Same goes with electrical current pathways. Smooth and consistant always allows for quicker speed, no matter what you are talking about. Water, air, liquid, electricity. All the same. Fake resistance ? What else in the ignition cable does current pass through ? Never heard of fake resistance, and the government trained me to repair electronic boards on billion-dollar aircraft carriers. Also, why does MSD recommend to anybody using a Mag44 distributor, to change out their coil lead after EVERY pass, and whole set after EVERY 8 runs ? Because they, and 99% of the wire manufacturer's out there ,cheapen the construction costs by using a dielectric layer which has a very high clay content.That layer is what keeps that high amperage charge of 50k voltage in that wire ! Thats why its white or very light colored. Ours is 100% high-strength- high-temp silicone. You can barely cut it , let alone rip it.. Cut apart some ignition leads out there. You will learn from doing this. Why risk a 5-10-50 thousand dollar engine , in a race, or going on a trip, with a $10 ignition lead ? People figure they have all the $ in the engine. Intake, pistons, cam, carb, crank. What about getting the most consistant spark you can to fire the engine to give it consistant running conditions ? Racing is all about consistancy. Drivers, tires, fuel, carb settings, spark. Thats why we jet up or down,adjust timing, and set ignition modules, to get the most consitant and clean-burning engine we can possilbly have.. Please , chosing ignition wires , for the most part, is simple for 95% of the auto's out there. Just get anything in there to get the spark to fire a piston. But on the most extreme and precision running auto's, boats, bikes, and whatevers, when consistancy and peace of mind are imperative , choose a quality ignition system. Magnecores are a good wire, for what its worth. They just don't have a specific dielectric layer, and fiberglass sheathing to strengthen the lead. They rely on the thick insulation to do that . Other than that, its a good wire.. Firecore50.com Our wires are on everything from a 6 second blown alcohol dragster( Lake Erie Monster), to 8 second nitrous heads-up racers, to NASCAR teams and weekend showcars.. Thanks

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireCore50 Dude, although you tried, you are not correct in most of your interpetation of how ignition wires work, especially pretending to be the guru of explaining manufacturer's process's and methods of construction. MSD's are wound tightly, in fact Firecore50's(not FYREWIRES) and MSD Superconductors both have 3.5 feet of copper/nickel windings in 1 inch of core. You are correct in the silicone giving protection to the core, but the Kevlar, ours being the only manufature who uses 100%, is used for strength while processing ,and manufacturing of the cable,the core in particular, and does nothing electrically for the spark. The core of a wire is what is the magic of a good ignition wire. The consistancy of current by which it allows measures the quality of spark you will end up with . Ohm's law is very important. E = I X R . That remains the rule. You are correct in saying some resistance is good. It allows for absorpton of the EMI and RFI. The cylinder of the core is what gives electricity its path, and only path of least resistance. You need a smooth path for a consistant spark path. You said it doesn't travel down the core of spiral-wound wire. Where does it travel , then ? By Corona effect ? Imagine this. You have a boat, travelling on a rough lake at 3500 rpm. Maybe 20 MPH. Same boat, same RPM, but on a perectly smooth lake, much higher speed. Same goes with electrical current pathways. Smooth and consistant always allows for quicker speed, no matter what you are talking about. Water, air, liquid, electricity. All the same. Fake resistance ? What else in the ignition cable does current pass through ? Never heard of fake resistance, and the government trained me to repair electronic boards on billion-dollar aircraft carriers. Also, why does MSD recommend to anybody using a Mag44 distributor, to change out their coil lead after EVERY pass, and whole set after EVERY 8 runs ? Because they, and 99% of the wire manufacturer's out there ,cheapen the construction costs by using a dielectric layer which has a very high clay content.That layer is what keeps that high amperage charge of 50k voltage in that wire ! Thats why its white or very light colored. Ours is 100% high-strength- high-temp silicone. You can barely cut it , let alone rip it.. Cut apart some ignition leads out there. You will learn from doing this. Why risk a 5-10-50 thousand dollar engine , in a race, or going on a trip, with a $10 ignition lead ? People figure they have all the $ in the engine. Intake, pistons, cam, carb, crank. What about getting the most consistant spark you can to fire the engine to give it consistant running conditions ? Racing is all about consistancy. Drivers, tires, fuel, carb settings, spark. Thats why we jet up or down,adjust timing, and set ignition modules, to get the most consitant and clean-burning engine we can possilbly have.. Please , chosing ignition wires , for the most part, is simple for 95% of the auto's out there. Just get anything in there to get the spark to fire a piston. But on the most extreme and precision running auto's, boats, bikes, and whatevers, when consistancy and peace of mind are imperative , choose a quality ignition system. Magnecores are a good wire, for what its worth. They just don't have a specific dielectric layer, and fiberglass sheathing to strengthen the lead. They rely on the thick insulation to do that . Other than that, its a good wire.. Firecore50.com Our wires are on everything from a 6 second blown alcohol dragster( Lake Erie Monster), to 8 second nitrous heads-up racers, to NASCAR teams and weekend showcars.. Thanks

Wow, this post is hilarious because it has nothing to do with anything I said!

Im getting really tired of companies googling their name and then posting "commercials."

Thumbs down.

Jackass's cant admit that the only reason they wrap their inner core with copper is because copper is low resistance and thats how they get their "50 ohm" resistance YET it has nothing to do with the actual conductivity of the wire.



THey use the same ferrite core as everyone else.
Nobody here is using Mag 44's.

Kevlar......thanks for another gimmick.
Not to mention the Wires I bought are 100% silicone..with no fake windings and no crappy insulation. Just ferrite core, 20 feet of steel winding per inch, and silicone jacket. No BS.
Of course, buy the wires you like because after all, every single ignition wire company out there is pulling your chain (see example above).

And if I wanted fake low resistance wires, i would buy some Crane 25 ohm wires. They do a better job then you at faking low resistance and they are a more respected company. burn burn burn.

[FireCore50]

Are you in the wire business, if not, you need to understand the manufacturing process of building a quality ignition wire. As the wire starts its manufacturing process, it starts with the strands of either fiberglass or Kevlar. This is what holds the core together, as it goes around the spools and pulleys and gets the other components attatched to it. If that core is allowed to stretch, the windings and either carbon-impregnated polyester or ferrite is torn. Is it a gimmick that kevlar is stronger than polyester ? I think not. In most instances, while companies are checking the resistance , or monitering the core and wire production, if the readings alter between a given length of cable, it is cut off until the readings are back within specs. Cut apart 10 different wires. It is obvious to the most casual observer that they are all not "exactly the same" The fiberglass stranding is for strength of the dielectric layer and also supports strenghth of the complete wire so the user can pull the lead on and off without damaging the lead, or pulling apart the core. Another reason the best companies use a stainless steel terminal with dual crimp tech. See below. Another tidbit of info for your consideration. Only 25 k volts are needed to jump a one inch gap. The reason companies make the higher voltage coils, for one reason, is to overcome any inconsistancies in an ignition wire. Cracks in the core, hot spots, splits and or damage to that electrical current path. Another is for extremely high combustion chamber pressures. Like turbos, supercharging, and high compression ratio's. All you did in the above thread was try to interpet the companies website. You got some of it correct.

[lookin]

Brent you are too much!

You would argue with Santa Claus about how he knows nothing about flying sleighs!

[venom800tt]

LOL, at least on your website you work on American muscle than Japanese cars and thats good although i would love to see TD too. But as everyone says stick with what you like guys and dont blame others for recommending you getting this or buying that if something goes wrong with your car.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireCore50 Are you in the wire business, if not, you need to understand the manufacturing process of building a quality ignition wire. As the wire starts its manufacturing process, it starts with the strands of either fiberglass or Kevlar. This is what holds the core together, as it goes around the spools and pulleys and gets the other components attatched to it. If that core is allowed to stretch, the windings and either carbon-impregnated polyester or ferrite is torn. Is it a gimmick that kevlar is stronger than polyester ? I think not. In most instances, while companies are checking the resistance , or monitering the core and wire production, if the readings alter between a given length of cable, it is cut off until the readings are back within specs. Cut apart 10 different wires. It is obvious to the most casual observer that they are all not "exactly the same" The fiberglass stranding is for strength of the dielectric layer and also supports strenghth of the complete wire so the user can pull the lead on and off without damaging the lead, or pulling apart the core. Another reason the best companies use a stainless steel terminal with dual crimp tech. See below. Another tidbit of info for your consideration. Only 25 k volts are needed to jump a one inch gap. The reason companies make the higher voltage coils, for one reason, is to overcome any inconsistancies in an ignition wire. Cracks in the core, hot spots, splits and or damage to that electrical current path. Another is for extremely high combustion chamber pressures. Like turbos, supercharging, and high compression ratio's. All you did in the above thread was try to interpet the companies website. You got some of it correct.

Seriously...you dont even reply to anything people have said.

Aurora wires dont seem any different then yours except your fake low resistance and the fact that Aurora's Suppress better then your wires.

Considering you are trying to sell wires, I think you are the last person to listen to.

BTW, who in the world is pulling on the ignition wire to remove the lead? You pull on the boot. Maybe your wires are perfect for people who are very careless.....but then I would have to say that Aurora's are still better then yours....and I didnt even choose to buy Auroras.

And of course you are totally avoiding the fact that your wires are fake low resistance.
You didn't design them and you are just posting a bunch of company propaganda which I am sure is questionable regarding this websites vendor rules.

[speeduphoria]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ondonti Im getting really tired of companies googling their name and then posting "commercials." Thumbs down.

I just thought it was funny when I saw his post yesterday

[Reaper1]

The thing I love is the fact his ride is a DIESEL!! Umm...you don't even USE plug wires there guy!

BTW, what is your profession FireCore50? EE? If so, then I *might* listen to you, but from the sounds of it, you have NO clue as to how electricity really works. You quote Ohm's law, that's great, but it has NOTHING to do with how the high voltage current gets to the plugs!! It is formed by the colapse of a magnetic field and is therefore is transfered via flux over the outer surface of the conductor...NOT through it! This is why resistance means basically NOTHING!! The closer the conductor is packed and the more surface area that it is in contact with, the better it will be able to transfer this flux.

Flux is radiated perpandicular to the surface of whatever it is coming from. Hence the wrapping of the conductor around a core instead of a bunch of straight wires like a normal peice of electrical wire.

Admitedly I'm not a true expert on this subject, but I DO know the basics. Just some overview of basic Physics dealing with electromagnetism or beginers EE classes will be enough to give a basic understanding of what really goes on. It actually isn't that complicated...

Anyways...I DO want to point out that the connectors he has pictures of are good examples of what I was saying about the Magnecor/Jacob's wires. The one on the right is what those two companies use and I've had issues with them cutting in to the jacket then ripping when trying to remove the wire from the plug becuase the connector is so firmly gripping the plug.(Yes, I do grab the boot...they were slipping). The one on the left is what MSD uses and I beleive it is a better design as it grips the core seperatly from the jacket and doesn't require the core to bend 180* and be crimped between the jacket and the terminal. I really want to make a set of wires that use the Magnecor wire with the MSD terminals...I believe that would be ideal...

[lookin]

The connector on the left is female socket. The connector on the right is HEI, and both of those are distributor end connectors. The plug end connectors on both types are the same however.

[FireCore50]

I figure since this is TurboDodge.com, you want to know I have a Turbo Dodge. I also have a 660 Horse Hemi GTX. I am the co-owner of Custom Wire . There is more to electrical current passing through ignition wire than I care to type.I am not the engineer who invented it, nor am I the electrcal engineer who has done all of the testing on our wire. You sound like somebody who does care about consistant current flow. I appreciate that. As most of us know, the current flows along the tube of windings. Ondonti thinks it travels inside the kevlar or carbon-inpregnated polyester. Just stating some facts . Our terminal is on the left. MSD and we use the same terminal in this instance. Both of those terminals are used as spark plug end terminals. The one on the left can be used also as a coil termianal also. I agree with everything Reper typed. Its all in our brochures. The reasons the terminal is gripped snugly onto the plugs, is that the clip on the terminal is sprung stainless steel also. I'n not here to ramble on with electrical theory, I just know that we have alot of customers that are very happy with our ignition wires. They look great, are cut to exactly fit your engine and routing, we custom fit them to your specs, and everything is built and assembled in the US.. They will handle any ignition system used in the marketplace. It is correct. I google our name every once and awhile to see what people are saying about us. I was reading the posts, and noticed the misconception about how the current travels in the ignition lead. I figured I'd state some facts. Hopefully some members will understand a little more about ignition wire now..

[lookin]

oops

Taking a closer look. The one on the left is a plug end connector.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 The thing I love is the fact his ride is a DIESEL!! Umm...you don't even USE plug wires there guy! BTW, what is your profession FireCore50? EE? If so, then I *might* listen to you, but from the sounds of it, you have NO clue as to how electricity really works. You quote Ohm's law, that's great, but it has NOTHING to do with how the high voltage current gets to the plugs!! It is formed by the colapse of a magnetic field and is therefore is transfered via flux over the outer surface of the conductor...NOT through it! This is why resistance means basically NOTHING!! The closer the conductor is packed and the more surface area that it is in contact with, the better it will be able to transfer this flux. Flux is radiated perpandicular to the surface of whatever it is coming from. Hence the wrapping of the conductor around a core instead of a bunch of straight wires like a normal peice of electrical wire. Admitedly I'm not a true expert on this subject, but I DO know the basics. Just some overview of basic Physics dealing with electromagnetism or beginers EE classes will be enough to give a basic understanding of what really goes on. It actually isn't that complicated... Anyways...I DO want to point out that the connectors he has pictures of are good examples of what I was saying about the Magnecor/Jacob's wires. The one on the right is what those two companies use and I've had issues with them cutting in to the jacket then ripping when trying to remove the wire from the plug becuase the connector is so firmly gripping the plug.(Yes, I do grab the boot...they were slipping). The one on the left is what MSD uses and I beleive it is a better design as it grips the core seperatly from the jacket and doesn't require the core to bend 180* and be crimped between the jacket and the terminal. I really want to make a set of wires that use the Magnecor wire with the MSD terminals...I believe that would be ideal...

Screw you for waiting 5 pages to make this good post


Yeah, I can admit that I dont like the magnacore connectors as they compare to aurora's etc..Even the stockers have the clip on the end while they arent of good material.

Making custom magnacores seems like it would be quite a task and I dont know who sells plain connectors (laborious tasks are my specialty..especially when they are not very technical or difficult :P)