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03-09-2008, 08:26 PM
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#46
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
My Ride: 92 Dodge Spirit
Engine: 10:1 3.0 5 speed
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.990
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So you guys recommend I get all the rods checked? Is there anything the machine shop can do about them being mixed up?
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03-09-2008, 08:35 PM
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#47
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Las Vegas
My Ride: 94 Dodge Caravan
Engine: 3.0L V6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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Why not just go to Harbor Freight and get one of their number punch sets. Then all you need to do is punch the number for each cylinder on each rod and corresponding cap.
That way you'll never forget which goes with which each and every time you pull it apart in the future (hopes that you will never have to again tho).
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03-09-2008, 08:40 PM
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#48
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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well regardless, get them checked out and if they are wrong the machine shop can resize them anyways.
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03-09-2008, 08:48 PM
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#49
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
My Ride: 92 Dodge Spirit
Engine: 10:1 3.0 5 speed
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.990
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Okay looks like I'll be doing that then so it doesn't happen again. When the rods are resized will I need oversize bearings?
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03-09-2008, 09:16 PM
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#50
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Johnstown, NY
My Ride: '93 Dodge Shadow ES
Engine: 3.0 v6
Induct: N/A
1/4: 0.000
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When the rods are resized the bore is returned to standard size. When bearings spin the rod bore becomes oversize and no longer can crush the new bearing. The crush holds the bearing from spinning, not the tabs on the shells.
SpeedyEd
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03-09-2008, 10:55 PM
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#51
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Minnesota
My Ride: 1992 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5l I-4 super 60
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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This is what I wasn't sure of, because I never had to deal with it. I do not know whether or not a machine shop can take mixed up rod caps and re-size them to work with each other. think it'd be possible. I don't see why not. They will have to answer that question.
SpeedyEd is correct. You will not need any special bearings or anything after re-sizing / reconditioning the connecting rods. I think they do it by removing a small amount of material from the mating surfaces, which makes the overall diameter of the hole smaller, and then they re-bore it to the correct size, and when done, the hole is perfectly round. There may be more to it, but that is the basics of it.
However, if your new crankshaft is machined down .010", you'll need bearings to accomodate that, but such bearing sizes are common practice. Whoever sells you the crankshaft should be able to sell you the correct bearings as well.
Live & learn. With my first engine build I basically had to tear it back down 3 times before I finally figured out what was wrong. Fine sand in an intake manifold does interesting things. And the other thing I learned is to trust nobody. Double check everything. You'd think that when you get a block back from the machine shop fresly bored/honed, perfectly clean, oil galley plugs installed, frost plugs installed, all wrapped up tight in a plastic bag, there would be no blasting media left in the oil galleys. WRONG. Those turds!
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03-10-2008, 03:32 PM
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#52
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
My Ride: 92 Dodge Spirit
Engine: 10:1 3.0 5 speed
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.990
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Machine shop charges $54 to resize all 6 rods. So I'm taking them all out and having it done. I'll get new bearings again just for the hell of it. They said they can match the caps up as best they can too.
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03-10-2008, 07:09 PM
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#54
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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was the spare crank getting turned or just polished or nothing?
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03-10-2008, 07:20 PM
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#55
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Minnesota
My Ride: 1992 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5l I-4 super 60
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I never used them before. The price point of that ebay stuff tends to make me lean away from it all.
Most of your existing gaskets and seals should be fine if they were new when you last assembled the engine--valve cover gaskets, front/rear mains, cam seals, circular packing, throttle body, etc. I had a set of Felpro gaskets fail on a 3.0 a long time ago at about 30,000 miles, but that was back when I didn't know what I was doing, and probably did not install them properly to begin with.
But on the other hand, I would definitely try a new Felpro Permatorque head gasket some day--they are MLS gaskets and look very promising. They should be very durable and long lasting. This is assuming Felpro makes a permatorque for the 3.0.
I wonder what kind of head gasket Mitsubishi gives us these days... when I got the gasket set for my Twin Turbo stealth, almost all the gaskets were multi-layer metal, including the head gaskets. I'm not sure what they'll give you for a 12 valve engine.
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03-10-2008, 07:44 PM
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#56
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NY
My Ride: 92 Dodge Spirit
Engine: 10:1 3.0 5 speed
Induct: N/A
1/4: 14.990
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The spare crank was checked, cleaned and polished by the same machine shop. I thought about re-using the valve cover gaskets etc but I don't want an oil leak. The intake manifold/plenum gaskets still look okay but the valve cover gaskets are really oily. Maybe if I clean them up really good they should be okay.
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03-10-2008, 08:13 PM
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#58
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Are they new from your recent build? The only leak problem you should have is if they are old and hard. My duster I can pull them off and on a million times no problems.
I have old gaskets on the spirit (original) and well..leak 
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03-10-2008, 08:16 PM
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#59
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salt Lake & Seattle
My Ride: 92 Duster
Engine: 3.0
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by phantomrt
I never used them before. The price point of that ebay stuff tends to make me lean away from it all.
Most of your existing gaskets and seals should be fine if they were new when you last assembled the engine--valve cover gaskets, front/rear mains, cam seals, circular packing, throttle body, etc. I had a set of Felpro gaskets fail on a 3.0 a long time ago at about 30,000 miles, but that was back when I didn't know what I was doing, and probably did not install them properly to begin with.
But on the other hand, I would definitely try a new Felpro Permatorque head gasket some day--they are MLS gaskets and look very promising. They should be very durable and long lasting. This is assuming Felpro makes a permatorque for the 3.0.
I wonder what kind of head gasket Mitsubishi gives us these days... when I got the gasket set for my Twin Turbo stealth, almost all the gaskets were multi-layer metal, including the head gaskets. I'm not sure what they'll give you for a 12 valve engine.
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The old stock 3.0 gaskets were all multilayer steel (lower intake, exhaust manifold, exhaust crossover) except the headgasket was corkboard with a steel fire ring.
All the replacements from felpro are not the multilayer stuff...which IMO is bad on the exhaust side but good on the intake side...especially for the lower intake.
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03-11-2008, 07:00 PM
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#60
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Re: Got the motor in.
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Minnesota
My Ride: 1992 Dodge Daytona
Engine: 2.5l I-4 super 60
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I mean, the only gasket on the entire engine other than the valve cover gaskets and oil pump to block gaskets were metal. Water pump, coolant fill neck, upper and lower intake, etc. Literally two paper gaskets in the whole kit. I was somewhat surprised.
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