Melted coil power connector

[lookin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kermit Girl huh... well, hey there good "lookin", lol. Well I agree that there is a force provided from the firing of the pistons, what you have to look at is the net force reacting on the system as a whole. When the engine is running it is constantly causing the pistons to experiance and acceleration (force) towards the center of the piston stroke (from inertia). This force is greatest at the ends of the piston stroke (TDC and BDC). In other words, the the rods are experiencing a tensile load when it is at the top of it's stroke. When the piston fires, it produces a force in the opposite direction of the force caused by inertia, so they tend to cancel out. This also begs the question...if you cranking the engine over with the starter, is it worth pulling the plugs to relieve the pistons from the compression force? To me, there is just as much oil in the bearings as there was when the motor was shut off, and there is just as much oil there as there will be every time the motor is started. To me just starting regularly after an isn't much worse than starting a motor any other time. PS! I enjoy long walks on the beach, laying in the tall grass watching the stars, staying up and watching the sun set...

Kermit

You like staying up and watching the sun set? You must often go to bed pretty early then huh? jk

I don't believe tensile load concussive force balance is really much of a factor, at the very low rpm for such a brief time period involved, in a pre-start crank up condition.

I notice that it takes much longer for the system to get oil pressure, after an oil and filter change, than it does at regular startup. This remains true even though I pre-fill my oil filters. I am sure this is because, hot oil must drain out of some places to be displaced by air, which is compressible, and so during that lag of several seconds, at least some feed points just get AIR, unless you do a pre-start prime. I want an adequate amount of oil in those places at startup.

PS

Kermit, I am almost 60 years old, and so I am not hot anymore. There was a time when I was, and yet I have not aged well due to kidney disease and other health problems. So let's keep it about cars.

[Ondonti]

Kermit, you have a complete lack of understanding of how bearings work and what the oil does in your engine.

Please stop posting on the subject. Giving bad advice is very irresponsible and not tolerable.

You totally ignored the facts posted because of your "feelings" on the subject....which are wrong.


You seem to have no idea what oil pressure is or what its purpose is, or comprehend the differences between 300 rpms and 900 rpms. There are exponentially greater forces as RPM's increase. There is a huge difference in forces on the bearings when the motor is freespinning on the starter at 300 rpms and when it is idling @ 900 rpms.

You think oil without pressure provides wear protection. It doesnt.

You dont understand engine oiling systems so why are you giving advice on them? This is a thread about electrical connectors not oil pressure anyways. Its completely off topic and inappropriate commentary for this thread.

[Ondonti]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kermit So what does he gain by priming it with the starter... The way I see it is that he turns it over with the starter and causes damage because for the first several revolutions oil pressure hasn't built up, and then he plugs in his coil and then starts the engine and does more damage because the pressure has to build up again. IMO it's just another start that the engine has to go through The point of molylube is to provide lubrication on bearing surfaces when there is no oil pressure when you first start your rebuilt, because some oil pumps can't be primed. Therefore the engine must go for much longer without oil pressure as all of the passages are empty. When you prime the oil pump (when possible) you are cutting down on the amount of time that the bearings will go without oil pressure, and therefore relying less on molylube to be the sole form of lubrication for so long. Am I saying that molylube is not required for engine assembly...no, not at all. I would never assemble a motor with motor oil, even if i was priming the pump. I'm also not saying that he will ever have a failure because of the way that he "primes" his oil. And even if he did spin a bearing or something, I would suspect that his problem came from something else. My point in making my argument was that other people didn't see this and think that they were doing damage to their motor by not doing this. And why do you unplug the coil instead of unplugging the coil to distributor wire. IMO the distributor connection is a little more robust and you should regularly change those wires anyways so they shouldn't wear out

Seriously, you are a complete joke. Restating what I said then adding on ridiculous commentary that is irresponsible and just plain wrong.

Im just wondering how stupid you have to be to think that oil pressure is somehow instantaneous when you "start" the motor but damage is happening when you prime the oil pump with the starter and dont run the motor. It is irresponsible to give such incorrect advice.
If I need to I will request all the offtopic posts including my own deleted because this is ridiculous. Make up BS in your own thread in a non 3.0 tech section.

[Ondonti]

Lets also laugh at you for thinking that forces of combustion offset bearing loads.

Apparently you think we have 2 cycle engines....but we have 4 cycle engines. Ever heard of the exhaust stroke? Zero offset of forces.

[Reaper1]

Wow...I really don't want to get in to this off-topic stuff. Let's just say as an aerospace engineering major MOST of the info given is a bunch of mumbo-jumbo and means really nothing. There is *some* minimal understanding going on by a few individuals, but other than that...yeah, we need to keep talking about the coil connection. LOL.

[lookin]

OK then ... back on topic.

I will repost one of my on topic posts. Since it was lost in oil pressure stuff I got involved in. My bad.


Here's what has been happening to the connectors Ondonti. Sawing them back and forth, to disconnect them, made the female sleeves loose (sloppy) on the male pins in the coil socket for the harness connector, and that allowed arcing. Then the female pin sleeves just degraded from the heat caused by the arcing. I will carefully, pull them straight out, from now on.

Part of the problem is, I have alway had to get funky old used coil connectors, since Dodge doesn't sell new ones anymore.

I finally found someone who does sell new ones from ACCEL though!

Good ole Summit Racing again.

ACCEL 140021AH - ACCEL Ignition Coil Adapter Harnesses - summitracing.com



They also sell them for 5.0 Ford Mustang coils. Now you can get a coil connector that is weatherproof Ondonti.

Here's a link to that page.

ACCEL 29349 - ACCEL Ignition Coil Adapter Harnesses - summitracing.com



They really should throw in a back rub for the $20+ price though. But at least I will have a new, tight coil socket connector, that will last.

Yippie skippy yahoo yaaaaaay!



~case closed~