fidanza flywheels worth it or not?

[Ondonti]

My Spirit hasn't had one for a loooong time. i bought one from KMP but I lost it and I am too cheap to buy another.

Not having one means you get the bucking, and the bucking tears up your motor mounts if they are stock and unfilled.

[TimTona]

i have the factory bobble strut and cut the flanges off the donor car but i was wondering if i can release the gas from the strut then weld it solid im a little low on cash right now

[Reaper1]

^^it's oil that's in that thing.

To answer your question, yes, you can do exactly what you described. Another option for you that is a little easier, got to the parts store and get end-link bushings for sway bars. You can use those stacked up to help with motor movement and it still gives you a bit of cushion.

[TimTona]

i like that idea just put some poly sway bar bushings on i could adjust it that way too just add bushings till its right

[comp]

can someone add a pic ??

[onecrazyphucker]

My low 14 second Sundance Duster had the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I loved it!

[Reaper1]

I'd like to add that a recent conversation with a TD vendor regarding an issue I am having with my car has given me somehtin else to consider with aluminum flywheels.

Evidently with cars that make a good amount of power(read torque) *may* have issues with heat build up in these flywheels making clutches actually slip. Due to the fact that aluminum flywheels have a steel friction surface, there is an issue with heat build up from the time delay for thermal conduction to take place to rid the friction surface of the heat.

Now I have not 100% confirmed this is my issue, BUT, it sure does seem like it as I don't have problems until I try to REALLY launch the car at the track. With my set-up, unless the pressure plate is total crap, this should NOT happen, especially on street tires. Keep in mind my engine put down 291lb-ft of torque at the WHEELS before I tuned it more. So I'm WELL over 300 at the crank in a 3000# car.

Having said that, unless you are putting down this much power, I honestly don't think it's a huge issue for the regular 3.0 guy, and it is a HUGE bennefit in all but the most rare case in those type vehicles...

[roguetrip]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 I'd like to add that a recent conversation with a TD vendor regarding an issue I am having with my car has given me somehtin else to consider with aluminum flywheels. Evidently with cars that make a good amount of power(read torque) *may* have issues with heat build up in these flywheels making clutches actually slip. Due to the fact that aluminum flywheels have a steel friction surface, there is an issue with heat build up from the time delay for thermal conduction to take place to rid the friction surface of the heat. Now I have not 100% confirmed this is my issue, BUT, it sure does seem like it as I don't have problems until I try to REALLY launch the car at the track. With my set-up, unless the pressure plate is total crap, this should NOT happen, especially on street tires. Keep in mind my engine put down 291lb-ft of torque at the WHEELS before I tuned it more. So I'm WELL over 300 at the crank in a 3000# car. Having said that, unless you are putting down this much power, I honestly don't think it's a huge issue for the regular 3.0 guy, and it is a HUGE bennefit in all but the most rare case in those type vehicles...

You almost make it sound like you left the 3.0 scene

As for the clutch, I've had no issues with my TIII/TII clutch kit so far, beating on it pretty good (no track time on it but street time ;) ), I think its more than enough for the N/A 3.0 can throw at it. My old zoom clutch kit would fade way before most of the abuse I've toss at the new kit.

[TimTona]

so is the TIII clutch the way to go with the aluminum flywheel? the trans i bought had an almost new clutch in it i was gonna use that but i dont want to have to take the trans back out after 2,000 miles either

[Screamin4banger]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 Due to the fact that aluminum flywheels have a steel friction surface, there is an issue with heat build up from the time delay for thermal conduction to take place to rid the friction surface of the heat.

Did they go into detail about what caused that time delay? I imagine it would be some sort of galvanic corrosion or maybe the friction surface doesn't make perfect contact with the flywheel. Aluminum is pretty good at wicking heat away from stuff. Maybe a big tube of heat-sink compound will help.:) ...And then maybe design a copper flywheel;) Sorry, just thinking like a computer guy

[Reaper1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by roguetrip You almost make it sound like you left the 3.0 scene

Eh...I haven't completely left the 3.0 scene...I still have 2 cars in my backyard with them(and I have 2 complete spare engines!!). I just haven't messed with one in a LONG time. The car I was reffering to is actually my curretn '88 Shelby Z TII car. One day I'll get going again, but as I said to a firend last night, this project is going well, I'm enjoying it, and it's really all I have real time for.

Quote:

Did they go into detail about what caused that time delay? I imagine it would be some sort of galvanic corrosion or maybe the friction surface doesn't make perfect contact with the flywheel. Aluminum is pretty good at wicking heat away from stuff. Maybe a big tube of heat-sink compound will help. ...And then maybe design a copper flywheel Sorry, just thinking like a computer guy

The time delay with getting heat out of the friction surface is due to the fact that it doesn't make perfect contact with the flywheel. I was thinking like you with aluminum being a fairly good conductor of heat, but since the way the surface is held on to the flywheel in a mechanical way(bolts) and not a press fit, there are bound to be gaps. I suppose heat-sink compund would help, but you'd need a LOT, and the good stuff isn't cheap!

In all honesty if you look a t alot of the places that make the dual-disk stuff, they only make aluminum flywheels if you REALLY want it...otherwise they are steel! The trick is to add the weight where it's needed, and take it waya where it's not. If you can concentrate the mass towards the center, it will still rev up VERY fast!

[crazymadbastard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Screamin4banger Maybe a big tube of heat-sink compound will help.:) ...And then maybe design a copper flywheel;) Sorry, just thinking like a computer guy

I was just thinking that- plus maybe a peltier

[Reaper1]

^^Oh god...let's not get back on THAT topic! LOL

[jory]

Quote:

Originally Posted by roguetrip ... I've had no issues with my TIII/TII clutch kit so far, beating on it pretty good (no track time on it but street time ;) ), I think its more than enough for the N/A 3.0 can throw at it. My old zoom clutch kit would fade way before most of the abuse I've toss at the new kit.

yeah I threw a lot at my TII/TIII clutch/fidanza and it held up great, even though I had like 10k miles on it I went through a stock one pretty fast even though it already had miles on it. Is it just me or are used clutches bad news. even if they have low miles on them and look good they don't seem to last too long in my experience.