new toy/knightmoves 2.0!!!

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by STLShelbyZ That is a bummer right there.....well at least now you can go with the specs fit to your build.

WOW!!! I guess God does raise the dead!!!!LOL welcome back!!!!! and yes, the cam lift is a little disappointing. BUT, remember that is at 2 valves not just one!

[STLShelbyZ]

I'm the all powerful STLShelbyZ. I do what I want and have access to anywhere I want!

Anywho, back on topic, did you stick to those adjustable air shocks?

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by STLShelbyZ I'm the all powerful STLShelbyZ. I do what I want and have access to anywhere I want! Anywho, back on topic, did you stick to those adjustable air shocks?

yes, I have about 6 inches of adjustment in the rear. should help in the launch at the track!!!!!

[Reaper1]

That's the cam's lift numbers. What about the actual lift at the valve? These cams aren't direct action on the valves IIRC. That means more than likely you have a ratio between the cam and the valve.

Also, lift is't everything. Duration is also very important as is lobe separation. (technically ALL the specs are important, but those basic ones are what most can relate to).

To me, this is why it's very important to know this stuff before porting begins. That way the modifications can be tailored to what is actually going to be seen in operation. I see it all the time where a head flows XXXcfm at WAY more lift than the valves will ever see! What is the point in that!?

(again, I'm NOT saying anyone did a bad job here)

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 That's the cam's lift numbers. What about the actual lift at the valve? These cams aren't direct action on the valves IIRC. That means more than likely you have a ratio between the cam and the valve. Also, lift is't everything. Duration is also very important as is lobe separation. (technically ALL the specs are important, but those basic ones are what most can relate to). To me, this is why it's very important to know this stuff before porting begins. That way the modifications can be tailored to what is actually going to be seen in operation. I see it all the time where a head flows XXXcfm at WAY more lift than the valves will ever see! What is the point in that!? (again, I'm NOT saying anyone did a bad job here)

those numbers are at the valve. not at the cam. the cam number are .203 intake and .193 exhaust. and we are unable to find the duration of the factory cams. all of this is really unimportant due to my buying performance cam set.I will be getting the super street. yes I know these are for a turbo motor. I will be adding twin turbo's later! 3SX Regrind Cams Racing Camshafts 3000GT Stealth Twin Turbo and Non-Turbo*-*Mitsubishi 3000GT*/*Dodge Stealth Parts

[knightmoves]

because of all of the posts I want to list what all I have done to the 3.5. the motor was bought as a junk motor due to a timing belt failure. the motor was dissembled and new rings,rod bearings,and main bearings installed.the ring gap was widened for the turbo boost later. the heads were ported by Ed and I am adding a set of regrind cams,and I have moded the intake to accept a 70mm throttle body and it was gutted for flow. the KIA stuff was tossed and Mitsubishi coil packs,wires,and ignitor was added. I have ditched the cast iron exhaust manifolds for twin turbo headers. BUT, the headers will start as N/A till the motor is broken in and the new setup is tested. after the motor is broken in and the setup is complete I will be adding a set of factory teo4 turbos. this will be a starting point NOT the finished project. once all of this is done the trans will be rebuilt and a LSD installed. and the up-graded turbos installed along with one of my wonderful intake designs! and the last step is when all of this is finished the motor will be pulled and the motor will be shipped to pampara motor sports for rebuilding and all forged internals. this is the last step and then the boost will be raised up to about 15lbs and the racing will begin!!!

[paduster]

u going to run stock TT 6g72 9bs on a 6g74 those turbos was to small for the 3.0. and with a extra .5 motor u might be almost boosting at idle lol 0 turbo lag lol. i have been lurking on 3si for a while now and from people that have done the 6g72 to 6g74 swap said the dr750s with the 63 ar on the exhaust side still was to small and ran outta steam up top a hot side of 48. would just not be good on a 6g74

and i hope you are running a set of adjustable cam gears with those cams and do you know how to degree the cams as you cant go by the numbers printed on the gears them selves

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paduster u going to run stock TT 6g72 9bs on a 6g74 those turbos was to small for the 3.0. and with a extra .5 motor u might be almost boosting at idle lol 0 turbo lag lol. i have been lurking on 3si for a while now and from people that have done the 6g72 to 6g74 swap said the dr750s with the 63 ar on the exhaust side still was to small and ran outta steam up top a hot side of 48. would just not be good on a 6g74 and i hope you are running a set of adjustable cam gears with those cams and do you know how to degree the cams as you cant go by the numbers printed on the gears them selves

baby steps is what I am doing. so there will be times when thing aren't as most people would do them. there will be adjustable cam gears. I spend a great time over on 3sias well as 3 other 3000gt/stealth sites learning the steps. believe me this car will come together and quite well!!!

[paduster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmoves baby steps is what I am doing. so there will be times when thing aren't as most people would do them. there will be adjustable cam gears. I spend a great time over on 3sias well as 3 other 3000gt/stealth sites learning the steps. believe me this car will come together and quite well!!!

well i wouldn't do cams without getting the gears to put them in time cause you will end up hurting the motor more than helping and if you wanna run 9bs cool but if you want to setup up to go bigger later you will either have to change the flange or end up making all new ones just to give yourself clearances for the bigger ones just food for thought.

either way making good progress cant wait to see it running

[Reaper1]

If the cams have the base circle built up and then reground, why would he need to do anything but get the cams installed as per the cam grinder's instructions? Yes, you can tune the engine to you liking by adjusting them, but static cam gears are just fine if the cams are ground bu somebody that knows what's up!

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 If the cams have the base circle built up and then reground, why would he need to do anything but get the cams installed as per the cam grinder's instructions? Yes, you can tune the engine to you liking by adjusting them, but static cam gears are just fine if the cams are ground bu somebody that knows what's up!

I don't care who grinds the cams I Always degree in my cams and then tune the cams from there! belts are almost always different lengths. no 2 belts are the same. also cams gears coming off an assembly line have vary loose quality guidelines. also the alignment pins can be off. if you just put 1/2 a degree on each you'll end up with 2 to 3 degrees off on your timing. and that can mean hp loss. Sorry but I don't agree with just installing them the way the grinder set them. to many other variables come into play.

[c2xejk]

Side note, the DOHC 6g74 cams won't need to be welded. The valve train is similar to a 2.2/2.5. So it has the lifters in the head that can be shimmed to account for some reduction in the cam base circle...

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk Side note, the DOHC 6g74 cams won't need to be welded. The valve train is similar to a 2.2/2.5. So it has the lifters in the head that can be shimmed to account for some reduction in the cam base circle...

the cams I want to use come with the shims in the kit.

[Reaper1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmoves I don't care who grinds the cams I Always degree in my cams and then tune the cams from there! belts are almost always different lengths. no 2 belts are the same. also cams gears coming off an assembly line have vary loose quality guidelines. also the alignment pins can be off. if you just put 1/2 a degree on each you'll end up with 2 to 3 degrees off on your timing. and that can mean hp loss. Sorry but I don't agree with just installing them the way the grinder set them. to many other variables come into play.

I kind of agree and I kind of don't.

There are tolerances, yes, however I think you might be on the VERY loose side of them. I've seen bad belts that can cause issues, yes. BUT, if you have 2 GOOD belts, they should be the same within a certain tolerance and they should stretch over a certain amount of time very nearly equally (taken up by the tensioner).

The cam gears are cast, so unless the mold shifts, it's going to be right. I literally had STACKS of cam gears for the 2.2/2.5 engines. If the part numbers matched, they ALL were exactly the same!

Yes, degreeing the cams in is a good idea, especially after they've been ground, BUT only for the purpose of setting them where the cam profile is supposed to be! You do NOT need adjustable cam gears for that! The make it easier, but they aren't needed.

I agree that after that, then you can mess with them to your liking.

[knightmoves]

when this motor is removed for the final time the motor will be blueprinted and assembled in great detail and that means going to stupid lengths for power and durability. It will take about 5 steps to get there but once it is done it will be DONE!!!!LOL