ok i got a problem

[paduster]

ok so my lebaron motor decided to take a big crap on me this past week. its popping though the intake and went though almost all the water it had in it in like 3 days. did a leak down test and number 5 will not hold any pressure at all and i think its coming out of intake and rad so defiantly head cracked so i have a few options. but deciding factor is money i just got a job after being outta work for a while so money is very tight. i have almost everything to rebuild a 3.0 top to bottem even with 10:1 pistons and chrome rings. but the set of heads i had came off a motor that was "rebuilt" by an idiot they said it was ready to rund but i found allot of bolts missing even out of the oil pump . so when it has a bolt broken off in the cam caps and one in the exhaust i know i would want them checked and milled flat but i belive the last time i had that done at my local machine shop they wanted 200 for just milling them flat. so i could send them out and get them fixed and just do a head swap. or i could look for a good running motor out of a junkyard last time i bought one they wanted 375 for one. now this is the crazy one. i have a ms1 that i can put in the car and i can get my hands on a 6g74 out of a wrecked van that that has 70000 miles and compression tests good but wont start no fuel pump it was hit right on it and i thing it either broke a wire or broke the pump and they will sell it for 300 but i would have to come up with something for the exhaust. now i have a welder and all that but would just be some money i would have to put into it to be able to run it cant go open manifold that would just be crazy loud lol. i would love to do the swap but i think the money evolved would end up being allot more than i can get up quick. so please help me make up my mind what to do.

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paduster ok so my lebaron motor decided to take a big crap on me this past week. its popping though the intake and went though almost all the water it had in it in like 3 days. did a leak down test and number 5 will not hold any pressure at all and i think its coming out of intake and rad so defiantly head cracked so i have a few options. but deciding factor is money i just got a job after being outta work for a while so money is very tight. i have almost everything to rebuild a 3.0 top to bottem even with 10:1 pistons and chrome rings. but the set of heads i had came off a motor that was "rebuilt" by an idiot they said it was ready to rund but i found allot of bolts missing even out of the oil pump . so when it has a bolt broken off in the cam caps and one in the exhaust i know i would want them checked and milled flat but i belive the last time i had that done at my local machine shop they wanted 200 for just milling them flat. so i could send them out and get them fixed and just do a head swap. or i could look for a good running motor out of a junkyard last time i bought one they wanted 375 for one. now this is the crazy one. i have a ms1 that i can put in the car and i can get my hands on a 6g74 out of a wrecked van that that has 70000 miles and compression tests good but wont start no fuel pump it was hit right on it and i thing it either broke a wire or broke the pump and they will sell it for 300 but i would have to come up with something for the exhaust. now i have a welder and all that but would just be some money i would have to put into it to be able to run it cant go open manifold that would just be crazy loud lol. i would love to do the swap but i think the money evolved would end up being allot more than i can get up quick. so please help me make up my mind what to do.

well cheap way is easy. what I do is look around for a caravan or other dodge setting in someones yard and buy the thing for $100 and drag it home pull the motor and drop the junk motor in the back and run it to the recyclers and get my money back!!!!LOL BUT if you want power then go with the 74!!! fab up the passengers side motor mount and bolt it up! install the MS1 and fab up the exhaust!!! it really isn't that hard!!

[paduster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmoves well cheap way is easy. what I do is look around for a caravan or other dodge setting in someones yard and buy the thing for $100 and drag it home pull the motor and drop the junk motor in the back and run it to the recyclers and get my money back!!!!LOL BUT if you want power then go with the 74!!! fab up the passengers side motor mount and bolt it up! install the MS1 and fab up the exhaust!!! it really isn't that hard!!

o i know that i have put many a motors in places the didnt belong lol chevy motors in fords and vise versa lol. and this is a good question to ask u would i have the room to make and exhaust from the stock exhaust manifolds to the stock exhaust of the lebaron i know i should put a bigger one in but would want to keep it cheaper for now 3 inch can wait

and do you think a new stock style clutch can hold the power of a 74 motor and i say stock style cause it a new stock replacement from advanced auto

and would the stock fuel pump be able to keep up just changing those 2 thing to better ones would be easy but not to the pocket book lol

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paduster o i know that i have put many a motors in places the didnt belong lol chevy motors in fords and vise versa lol. and this is a good question to ask u would i have the room to make and exhaust from the stock exhaust manifolds to the stock exhaust of the lebaron i know i should put a bigger one in but would want to keep it cheaper for now 3 inch can wait and do you think a new stock style clutch can hold the power of a 74 motor and i say stock style cause it a new stock replacement from advanced auto and would the stock fuel pump be able to keep up just changing those 2 thing to better ones would be easy but not to the pocket book lol

the 74 what did it come out of? is it a DOHC or a SOHC? if it is under the 200hp range the stock like clutch will hold up for a while. I just wouldn't run the snot out of it. the exhaust would be the main challenge. the reason is the front manifold would have to run under the oil pan and back up to the stock location. it would take a bit of doing but it can be made to work.

[paduster]

same as your motor dohc outta kia minivan lol

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paduster same as your motor dohc outta kia minivan lol

that motor is rated at 190HP if I remember correctly! and 210 TQ!!! you need to do that!!!! trust me you'll LOVE the drive!!!!

[paduster]

yea i am leaning that way really cause i have everything needed for the ms to run i even have the wideband to tune with just worried about the spark side of it since i bought it used of 87turbodance it was set up to run a 12v sohc with a distributor but he made a gm coil pack and ignition module to run wasted spark but i have no clue what wires need used for that to work and its been a while since i read up on it and since he built it diyautotune wont work on it i think so i have to do it. i need help with this ms i think lol. the more and more i think about it is it will get the 6g74 motor but i really wanna figure this ms first before i start but since i am on a limited budget things will most likely move slow so i guess this ms will have to get figured out now

[paduster]

the more i am thinking about it it might just go the 6g74 route cause i cant seem to find a 3.0 12v sohc and i can find these 6g74 a dime a dozen right now and i just got off the phone my local machine shop wants 275 for the 2 bolts being removed and them being milled flat so the 300 dollar motor is sounding better and better even though i would need to do something with the exhaust and i would have to figure out the ms now rather than later.

so with that being said i just bought the ms and its been in the box since i bought it. it was 87turbodances ms out of his spirit i think it was with the 3.0 auto. so i would need to do something along the wasted spark set up he sold me with it but i cant figure out what wires i need to use there and really never messed with ms before so i am going to need allot of help

first thing is first i gotta figure out all of what i need to make this motor work and get a parts list going cause i need this to come along quickly

while here goes the list that i know i need to get this up and running

1. i need a new rad the one in the car was looking like the fins was just falling out then and that was a year and a half ago lol

2. i need to get exhaust parts ordered to make a y pipe to mate with the stock exhaust

3. the motor i will buy this i think first since i need to be able to find what size pipe i need to buy for the y pipe

4. some steel stock is going to be needed to build a passenger side motor mount

5. 36-1 toothed wheel and sensor now is this sensor something i can grab out of a junkyard or should i just buy one off diy

6. fuel rail adapters for a return fuel system

please help me with this list cause if i move forward with this i want to get all the parts needed to make it run before i even take one bolt out of the car

[Shadow24V]

Running GM DIS or ford EDIS off of the MS is actually a simpler way to go than direct coil drive like a stock 12v. If anything, you will get better spark out of the GM DIS setup. I personally use a Ford EDIS and GM DIS coils at the moment with little issues.

The exhaust, passenger motor mount and MS are probably your biggest hurdles although there are a few other compatibility issues you may want to look at or consider:

1) are you going with or without power steering? the pumps are quite different between the other 6G7x variant motors. However you can easily mate a motor specific pump to the chassis specific rack by taking the hoses to a hydraulic shop and having them mate the needed hoses together. the PS pump doesn't produce as much pressure as what the hydraulic couplers are designed to take so failure is minimal at worst

2) A/C - do you want it or not? this is also an engine specific thing, however, you CAN get some A/C shops to couple the A/C hoses to the newer compressor and you should be able to use the stock hi/lo pressure switches and the wiring for the compressor clutch.

3) exhaust - If i read your posts right, you are going to use the stock manifolds, correct? AFAIK there aren't any aftermarket headers- specifically for the kia 3.5 DOHC. However, if the ports are the same as the 3.0 DOHC, you could probably get a set of non-turbo DOHC headers for the 3000GT and "make" them fit with a saw and welder.

4) clutch - I never actually got to drive my 24v 3.0 with an OEM 12v clutch, however I agree that it should hold up for daily driving and some mild to moderate beating-on. If you start getting clutch slip, then it's time to upgrade. OR get a better clutch from the beginning. a TU kevlar clutch should hold fine and give near stock feel.

[paduster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V Running GM DIS or ford EDIS off of the MS is actually a simpler way to go than direct coil drive like a stock 12v. If anything, you will get better spark out of the GM DIS setup. I personally use a Ford EDIS and GM DIS coils at the moment with little issues. The exhaust, passenger motor mount and MS are probably your biggest hurdles although there are a few other compatibility issues you may want to look at or consider: 1) are you going with or without power steering? the pumps are quite different between the other 6G7x variant motors. However you can easily mate a motor specific pump to the chassis specific rack by taking the hoses to a hydraulic shop and having them mate the needed hoses together. the PS pump doesn't produce as much pressure as what the hydraulic couplers are designed to take so failure is minimal at worst 2) A/C - do you want it or not? this is also an engine specific thing, however, you CAN get some A/C shops to couple the A/C hoses to the newer compressor and you should be able to use the stock hi/lo pressure switches and the wiring for the compressor clutch. 3) exhaust - If i read your posts right, you are going to use the stock manifolds, correct? AFAIK there aren't any aftermarket headers- specifically for the kia 3.5 DOHC. However, if the ports are the same as the 3.0 DOHC, you could probably get a set of non-turbo DOHC headers for the 3000GT and "make" them fit with a saw and welder. 4) clutch - I never actually got to drive my 24v 3.0 with an OEM 12v clutch, however I agree that it should hold up for daily driving and some mild to moderate beating-on. If you start getting clutch slip, then it's time to upgrade. OR get a better clutch from the beginning. a TU kevlar clutch should hold fine and give near stock feel.

well i am most likely using the stock maifolds for just to keep the cost down and i already disconnected the ac i dont need it its a convertible lol. and i would like to keep the power steering and have a hydraulic hose shop right down the street from me so that will be easy

but my biggest issue is with this ms1 unit and what all i need to do to it to get it to work and does anyone know if i will nee to buy a toothed wheel or would the kia mini van motor have one on it

[paduster]

dont know if these can help anyone with what i might need but here are some pics of the ms i have and the gm dis system i have that 87turbodance made

[Shadow24V]

To use the GM DIS you probably would need to get a specific toothed wheel. However, I'm sure you can ask on the MS1/Extra (I'm guessing here that your MS is running the Extra code...) forum HERE about how to set it up to use the stock crank and cam sensors for RPM. Depending on your budget, you may want to look at upgrading to an MS2. What color is the circuit board on your MS, Green or blue?

[paduster]

its blue it says right on it that its the 3.0 version

and i have no clue what its running as far as code is the a way to bench test it and find out and i dont wanna here just read the manual cause when i just looked at it i think it is more toward the ms2 and ms3 and dont have the money to upgrade just yet although was looking at the price of the daughter card and its only 100 dollars so maybe after i get it running or maybe before if it worth it. i just bought the usb adapter to be able to use it with my current laptop so i know i can hook it up that way and also the wire harness i got with it was from a diffenrt company other than diyautotune cause from what he said is it had all the pins populated with wires not just what was needed or something should i just buy a diy harness or could i make this one work

[knightmoves]

the KIA motor has its own trigger wheel. it has 3 teeth with 3 missing teeth. and a cam sensor. BUT I wouldn't use it. I would buy a 36-1 wheel from DIY and fab up a crank sensor that 87turbdance used with the MS1 box you have. the KIA front pulley is easier to use the DIY trigger wheel than the 3.0 12V pulley. doing it this way will keep you from having any mods done to the box to run the motor.

[paduster]

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightmoves the KIA motor has its own trigger wheel. it has 3 teeth with 3 missing teeth. and a cam sensor. BUT I wouldn't use it. I would buy a 36-1 wheel from DIY and fab up a crank sensor that 87turbdance used with the MS1 box you have. the KIA front pulley is easier to use the DIY trigger wheel than the 3.0 12V pulley. doing it this way will keep you from having any mods done to the box to run the motor.

ok so gotta add the toothed wheel to the list above

now also u guys think the stock fuel pump will be able to keep up and knight moves is the stock fuel rail one i can use with the stock fuel system on the car meaning is it a return style fuel system with a afpr on it

amd looking though some old emails from when i bought the ms unit off him i saw that he was using a 6-1 toothed wheel that he made using bolts in the stock crank pulley