New to the 3.0 world and my plans

[Shadow24V]

Any reason to keep the Automatic? 5Speed swaps are fairly easy and common...

[Army4life73]

Can't find a donor car everyone scrapped anything that didn't run this past summer

[Shadow24V]

Bummer. You might be able to find someone on the forum with a donor car/parts. IMHO a 5-speed really wakes the 12v 3.0 up...

[knightmoves]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V Bummer. You might be able to find someone on the forum with a donor car/parts. IMHO a 5-speed really wakes the 12v 3.0 up...

I agree with you on that!!! I have driven all three! the 5 speed,604,and 670 the 5 speed really drives 1000 times better than the autos! faster too!!!!

[c2xejk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V Bummer. You might be able to find someone on the forum with a donor car/parts. IMHO a 5-speed really wakes the 12v 3.0 up...

While I agree with that, I must say I have been toying putting a built AT behind my turbo 24v 3.5L... Probably not this year, but the thought is there...

Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance

[Shadow24V]

Quote:

Originally Posted by c2xejk While I agree with that, I must say I have been toying putting a built AT behind my turbo 24v 3.5L... Probably not this year, but the thought is there... Ed Kelly - Kelly-Mulhern Performance

A built AT can be a good addition to a higher power motor. I know NMW2006 was building the hydraulic trans (don't remember if it was the 3-speed or 4-speed) for his 3.0 Turbo Neon build. I just like to row my own :)

[Army4life73]

I will probably start with new trans and motor mounts and a shift kit. I have to get a new axle this week my pass side one is goin out so I gotta get that fixed before I put anymore power to it. Then go into gettin intake and exhaust.

[Shadow24V]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army4life73 I will probably start with new trans and motor mounts and a shift kit. I have to get a new axle this week my pass side one is goin out so I gotta get that fixed before I put anymore power to it. Then go into gettin intake and exhaust.

In my past experience, be wary of the "new" axles from the parts store. Granetd I broke both at the drag strip launching HARD on slicks, but if there is a good driveshaft shop near you, you may want to get your OEM axle rebuilt. The Saginaw thick-walled tube passenger axle I believe to be much stronger than the "new" chinese-made solid-shaft axles.

But that's my opinion (I had over 100 drag passes and 250K miles on the original axles, but snapped the "new" ones first two times out to the strip. I am back running OEM axles)

[Army4life73]

There not new new ones they are the reman ones

[6g72 acclaim]

I'm assuming being a 94 your car is the 670 3-speed auto. If that's the case the valve body can be modded for better shifts. Mine was built with a 2500 stall, it would launch hard and chirp 2nd on the shift, but it's on it's way out now cause they messed it up.

The 3.0 really comes alive with more airflow. Stock they're pretty much done at 4k.
I have intake, 52 TB, ported plenum, 1" spacers, mildly ported heads, diamante cams, and full 3" exhaust. I have strong pull from 3k to the rev limit. Just intake, TB, and plenum make a big difference though.

[Army4life73]

Ya I think I'm gonna start out small go with porting my intake and 52mm TB and exhaust. Is it better to stick with OEM dist and rotor or is there some sort of great aftermarket ones that will make a good difference. Also what about my coil pack?

[Army4life73]

I have a problem that I can't figure out I think it might bet egr valve but not sure. Well Thursday it ran fine no problems today I start it up to go to work and its idling rough. It's real rough when I put It in reverse and mildly rough in drive. It sputters and acts like its missing real bad when I accelerate up to 3k rpms then it smooths out. I replaced my cap,rotor,plugs , wires and fuel pump and map sensor and still doin it no difference in it. Any help would be awesome. Thanks everyone

[nilo420]

try pulling the codes off the ecu by on off on off on with the ignition switch count the flashes of the check engine light (*flash* pause *flash* flash* would be 12) then check this out 1980s Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge computer fault codes

[Army4life73]

It brings up 32 so it is my setting with my egr valve. I will have to tear it apart Tomorrow and check it out

[6g72 acclaim]

Bypass it, or get rid of it completely. That's what I did. My car was giving me the same crap. I got an older non-egr plenum and ported it, then capped the exhaust.