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jw461329's Daytona build thread (finally)

4K views 47 replies 9 participants last post by  jw461329 
#1 ·
Ok so heres the daytona in progress...
Work done includes....
Shocks/struts
Wheel bearings
Brakes
New alternator/battery
MSD coil
Ported air Plenum
1/2" plenum spacers (still need to be cut to size)
58mm throttle body
8mm sparkplug wires
new plugs
full 3" exhaust
Walbro 255 fuel pump/new fuel filter

Parts in the trunk that need to go on..
Cylinder heads
Full Gasket set
AFPR
36lb injectors
Turbocharger and parts
 

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#3 ·
I see you have the 87 plenum. How many grinding wheels did it take to port it:D? The stock airbox is very restrictive. If you're not putting the turbo on right away a cone filter would be a good investment in the meantime. If you bought one for the turbo why not put it on?:two cents:

More info on the turbo/parts(manifolds, etc...)?

Above all, have fun with your project!
 
#4 ·
someone else ported it... got it for 25 bucks i think

boost will probably be ms2/3... probably run really low boost until i get it all set up tho

good advice on the air filter! thanks, what size inlet should i look for? any links?

turbo manifold will be a custom rear mount... i bought the one ed made, but had to sell it... it will be very similar to that though

I have a garrett T04 turbo right now, but it currently has a 1.00 a/r discharge housing, and i need something a bit smaller just having trouble finding the parts id need to switch it... looking for a .60-.70 a/r size... otherwise i dont think ill ever see boost.

Not sure if the t04e and t04b housings are the same is the main issue

I forgot to add ive got LS1 wideband in the trunk as well that still needs to be installed
and i just replaced the stock 02 sensor

I forgot to add i have an
 
#5 ·
K&N makes pretty much anything you could ever want as far as air filters go. They are washable so you shouldn't ever have to buy one again.
K&N Universal Clamp-on Air Filters for a Variety of Universal Air Filter Applications
A 2.5 filter will fit on the throttle body but I would recommend you get one that fits on the turbo and use an adapter to fit it on the throttle body or at the end of the stock rubber hose. That way when you turbo it you can re-use the same filter. Auto parts stores normally have a small selection of these.

Some people swear by Spectre filters which can be had cheaply at your local autoparts stores. These come with adapters. However I've read numerous reports about the metal disc in the end of these filters coming unglued and chewing up peoples turbos... One of my friends has this filter on his stock caravan with no issues.

Another option is to use an HKS mushroom style filter. These apparently flow very well because they are just foam. More popular on MAF cars, I think, because you don't have to oil them. Can't imagine they would filter as well as the K&N type but i've never used one personally.

You may want to add a small breather filter to the rear valve cover which you can get at the autoparts store pretty cheap.

someone else ported it... got it for 25 bucks i think...
Got a good deal there. It took me a long time to cut that big tube out of mine. Aluminum dust sucks!

For when you install your wideband, if you decide to use the narrowband emulation use the voltage values on this page http://www.minimopar.net/ecu/oxygen_se.html and you will have a good 14.7 cruise afr. Using the preset values didn't work for me.
 
#7 ·
Also AEM makes a bonded rubber and cotton cone filter. It does not require oil either. I love mine! They are on the expensive side, I paid $50 for mine. For cleaning you just rinse it out and let it air dry (best to do it on a sunny day).
 
#8 ·
Thanks! that might be the route to go

go my engine stand yesterday and my torque wrench
getting ready to pull and put new gaskets the motor soon.

ive got some heads with about 70k miles on them to put on for the smoking problem... how do i tell if my rings are going bad though? the motors got 131k on it and i was hoping to not have to get into the pistons when i do the rebuild

i plan on putting a different engine in at some point running ms2/3 with the mitsu 3.8 sohc
 
#9 ·
Does it smoke when you take off from a stop light after you've been sitting there for awhile? Does the smoke get better or worse as the engine warms up?

Usually when it's the oil rings it will smoke constantly but get better as the engine warms up. If the car sat for awhile the oil rings could be stuck. Usually this doesn't happen in my experience.

If it's the valve stem seals it will usually smoke more and more the hotter/thinner the oil becomes. The valve stem seals are problematic on the older 3.0s. You might be able to see the seals if you take off the valve covers. look for splits and missing chunks of the rubber. If you can get a pick or something in there you could try to feel the rubber. It should be soft and squishy, just try not to puncture them.

If it's white smoke you may just have a bad head gasket. Inspect the cylinder walls for damage from the coolant when the heads are off.

Have you performed a compression test?
 
#10 ·
No compression test yet, does advance auto rent compression test kits?
The smoke is generally white, and the car has sat for 4 years or so. It seem to not smoke at all till it gets warmed up. it seems to smoke more while im idling rather than when im pressing on the gas
 
#11 ·
I believe advance does rent compression test kits i'm pretty sure the deposit is something like $90

Sounds like a bad head gasket or warped/cracked head. Was the car severely overheated at some point? That can cause these problems. A compression test will tell you alot.

Perform the compression test at full operating temperature with no spark plugs and the throttle blocked wide open.

Disable the spark system and fuel injectors too.

Record the pressure for each cylinder.

Some compression gauges have two needles; one is the normal gauge needle and one doesn't return to zero so you can see the highest pressure the gauge reached during the test. Try to find the two needle kind. That way you can turn the key and floor the gas pedal to do the test(the gauge won't need to be visible during the test this way).

If you see two adjacent cylinders with significantly and equally lower compression you most likely have a bad head gasket or warped head.

If the pressure readings all match + or - a few psi but all read low then you probably have bad rings but at that mileage you shouldn't have these problems. If you observe this add a LITTLE BIT of motor oil to the cylinder if the compression goes up it's the rings.

If you see just one low cylinder it probably has a leaky valve but that won't cause smoke.

The haynes manual states that cylinder compression pressure should be 178 at 250 rpm but don't worry if it's 10 or so psi less that's normal.

If you still aren't confident that you undrstand the problem after the compression test. Do a leakdown test. You will need an air compressor for this.
 
#12 ·
heres what ive been up to the last couple days


Ive got the motor tore down and the block painted as well... will start reassembling in the morning with new gaskets, new water/oil pump, belts, and lightly used heads.


I need someone to walk me through how to set the timing on a disassembled motor PLEASE!!!!:bang head
 

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#13 ·
oh and another thing. i am planning on installing my afpr when i reassemble... does anyone have any pictures of how they set it up to the fuel rail?

Also would it be ok to run my GTP 36lb injectors now? I plan to turbo in the future, but thought since i have it disassembled this would be a nice time to slide them in
 
#16 ·
cam gear arrows line up with lines on the metal gear back plates. Crank gear lines up with marker on the crankshaft. Once that lines up and the timing belt tensioner + spring is in place, line everything up again. Put the distributor in so it lines up with cylinder #1 on the inside of the distributor (do not use the outside location to figure this out).
Then put it around the middle for distributor adjustment. Then use a timing light to get it back to 12 degrees. I don't remove the distributor when messing with unrelated things so I don't have to mess with it all the time. Huge waste of time.
 
#17 ·
Ok here's where i am at today...

Ondonti... Do these arrows look right? the rear cam gear does not seem to line up to what looks like the line.. it either goes too far or not far enough
 

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#20 ·
The rear cam "sits" on a hill. The slightest bump and it wants to spin one direction or the other... I usually put a breaker bar on the nut when I put the belt on. Rotate the sprocket slightly forward (clockwise), slip the belt on and then rotate back (counter clockwise). Keep the belt tightly wrapped around the sprocket so it doesn't jump as you take it around the tensioner.
 
#19 ·
currently i have the stock one on my daytona... i have the other available at the jy... ive got a bunch of connectors and adapters and line so im sure i could make what ever work...

ill check the website out tonight.. im out of time today...

any word on those injectors too?
thanks guys
 
#22 ·
alright got the timing set and everything reassembed. cleaned my engine bay. *i swear there was an inch of grease and crap on the front sub-frame*

so i still had questions on if i could use the injectors i bought now, even if i do not have the turbo installed, with my walbro and a afpr?

when i install my afpr, do i just remove the factory one and install it between the factory line and the raile?
 
#23 ·
unless you make an adapter I am pretty sure you need to keep the stock regulator in place. what I did was drill through the back of where it goes into the rail so it bypasses the stock regulator and uses my adjustable one I have installed inline.

I had 36# injectors but when I corrected the injector O-ring issue I had (they were too small and was letting air past them) I had to get some 30# injectors out of an inline 6 turbo Volvo and I have the fuel pressure turned down to 27 psi so it doesn't get too rich at part throttle.
 
#24 ·
JT84 you dont have a picture of what you are talking about on the fuel rail do you?
I am not clear on where you drilled into, or why the stock regulator needs to stay in place.

so i can put my injectors in then as long as i turn down the fuel pressure on the fuel regulator down to 27 psi then??
 
#27 ·
the first picture is the stock fuel rail showing the stock regulator opening, ( I think the older style is similar but not sure)


the second one is the opening where I drilled into in order to bypass the regulator portion and use my RRFPR


and the last one is a better view, if you look inside you will the the metal line going up to the top, I drilled just enough to go through the line until it matched the opening.



you will get a lot of metal shavings so you will really need to clean it out and I would put temporary inline filter to catch whatever doesn't come out so it doesn't get into your other regulator you have installed.

there may be a better way to bypass the stock regulator but I did it this way and it has worked well for me.
 
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