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Old 12-04-2012, 11:58 PM   #181
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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this should be the one you continue to make as this one looks great as i will probably snag one after the holidays are over
I agree. I'll update the pictures to show it once I put together Pope's kit.

The engineer in me wants to see my much thinner, 1 bolt version survive according to the equations so I'll be leaving it on my car. Hehe
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:12 AM   #182
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Awesome work dude! I'll be ordering one of these kits once the x-mas bonus comes in!
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:25 PM   #183
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I would be interested in an oil cap one and maybe a set of wheel caps
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Old 12-05-2012, 12:58 PM   #184
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I have a thread in the "Exterior" area started on them.Link
I don't want to hijack this thread with them.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:23 PM   #185
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acannell, out of curiosity, have you considered flood cooling your machine?. Since you have machining experience there's no need for me to state the benefits. Most of the machines I have access to are in proprietary enclosures with coolant systems, but I have also have one that is a bit larger than your Sherline that I enclosed and now flood cool. Didn't take a whole day to do and I spent less than $50 to do it.
I also read in a previous post your desire for a 4th axis, and considering buying another machine to achieve it. What driver are you currently using?
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:31 PM   #186
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acannell, out of curiosity, have you considered flood cooling your machine?. Since you have machining experience there's no need for me to state the benefits. Most of the machines I have access to are in proprietary enclosures with coolant systems, but I have also have one that is a bit larger than your Sherline that I enclosed and now flood cool. Didn't take a whole day to do and I spent less than $50 to do it.
I also read in a previous post your desire for a 4th axis, and considering buying another machine to achieve it. What driver are you currently using?
I'd really like to make a proper enclosure for the mill..right now its just plywood and a sheet of plexiglas, I _literally_ threw it together in about 2 hours from scratch because I wanted to start machining right away. How does your $50 coolant system work? I was thinking to do it right it would actually have to be pretty clever..to filter out the chips and keep everything flowing. I've only been machining stuff since August, so I'm not completely sure if coolant and/or lube would be better/worse/same in mist/liquid/air..etc..I would think cooling things would be a plus no matter what, but I'm not sure if the work I do in aluminum and plastic would benefit from a lubricant or not..sometimes I try WD40 and things get quieter, but I know its more complex than that. What do you think? The biggest endmill I use is 1/4" diameter.

My big goal is being able to hog out aluminum at the fastest rate possible. I think I am doing alot more than the vast majority of people by running 0.050" axial depth, full 1/4" slot, at 9ipm..even 12ipm sounds okay sometimes. Thats really pushing it on a sherline! Every IPM counts and anything I can do to cut faster is a big deal.

I bought the 4th axis! Its a sherline part and connects to the same proprietary driver box and computer, running EMC2, and you just bolt it wherever you want onto the mill. But I've learnt alot more about this machine and machining since then, and now I kind of doubt its utility. This machine has extreme rigidity and space limitations, and another moving piece in the puzzle just makes everything worse, plus my CAM software doesn't do 4th axis so I'd have to write stuff from scratch, which means it would have to be simpler 4th axis things..still not a show stopper but I'm knee deep in 2.5D stuff for now. But someday I'll figure out something to use it for. Probably alot sooner than I think.
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:33 PM   #187
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glhs60, your free bore style adapter is ready to ship! just send me a $6 for shipping and its yours...

this style is definitely more sensitive to machining quality than the face seal..there are alot of witness marks from backlash and the unrigid dremel bit..i think it will work though..but be ready to replace it with a freeze plug or something if it doesnt!
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:28 AM   #188
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been waiting for the gold ones lol, going to have to get one of those too lol.

We should get one machine / fab thread going where people just show things they are making in there free time lol. I try to keep different threads saved to different places but tough. I made a few a sticky. Some of this would be tough to reproduce, but some things aren't over time. But one thread would be nice lol.
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:30 PM   #189
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been waiting for the gold ones lol, going to have to get one of those too lol.

We should get one machine / fab thread going where people just show things they are making in there free time lol. I try to keep different threads saved to different places but tough. I made a few a sticky. Some of this would be tough to reproduce, but some things aren't over time. But one thread would be nice lol.
Pope send me your shipping address so I can get your kit out to you!
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:22 PM   #190
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Okay whats next!! I'm getting addicted to this! There is something really fun about making these ideas a reality in such a short amount of time!

How about custom shaped, all-welded aluminum or stainless tanks?

Here is one I started on. They are fairly simple to make, you just score sheet metal, bend it, and then weld the seams and scores from the outside. No glue or epoxy. Weld on a pre-fab screw on cap and you have a real piece of race equipment. You can even add internal baffles.

I was making this one to replace my water injection bottle, and I was going to add all kinds of baffling, then I realized it was way too small and I need alot more water for my daily driving boost habits. But you can see how it turns out. Could make a nice radiator bottle, or ?? I guess you could even make a fuel cell this way but I'm a little scared of doing that hehe.

Whats cool is you can make it VERY custom very easily..weld on AN fittings, threaded bungs, brackets, paint, caps, all can be welded on it just the right place and be very sturdy.




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Old 12-06-2012, 02:43 PM   #191
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Good job, a quick question on the 4th cylinder cooling. With the hole bolted to the top of the thermostat area will it not now be the heighest part of the cooling system and trap air possibly? The hole at the top of the thermostat area is used to bleed the cooling system (highest point), with this hose on top and even higher will that not create a possible air pocket issue? Where is the best spot to run the 4th cylinder coolant to? Was it to the waterpump?
I don't know if the best solution was ever agreed to? The adapter for the side of the head looks good I just think we need to add a little more thought to where to run that hose to.
I wonder if we should look into seeing how VW did it. I had a 96 VW Golf CL with a 1.8L tbi (canadian version) which has a very similar head/engine style (I believe chrysler actually used VW's design to make the 2.2/2.5) and it had a plastic thermostat like fiting (o-ring style) which came out very close to where your fitting is (I specifically remember it as the plastic cracked (pretty common after hundreds of heat cycles). I just don't remember where that hose ran to. I've attached a pic of the motor, but it's not great, will have to do more research. Do you know what has to be done to get it to work with a more stock setup which uses one of those holes to mount a bracket which holds the stock airbox. I'm assuming a spacer would be needed and or the bracket modified to fit with this setup.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:51 PM   #192
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Update here's an 87 VW with a better pic of where that coolant hose off cylinder #4 is going (looks like heater core?) If it is in fact the heater core hose, could we not tee into our heater feed hose? Would that work?
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:56 PM   #193
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I talked about going to the heater core a few pages back and that's what I plan on doing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 03:10 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cawcislo View Post
Good job, a quick question on the 4th cylinder cooling. With the hole bolted to the top of the thermostat area will it not now be the heighest part of the cooling system and trap air possibly? The hole at the top of the thermostat area is used to bleed the cooling system (highest point), with this hose on top and even higher will that not create a possible air pocket issue? Where is the best spot to run the 4th cylinder coolant to? Was it to the waterpump?
I don't know if the best solution was ever agreed to? The adapter for the side of the head looks good I just think we need to add a little more thought to where to run that hose to.
I wonder if we should look into seeing how VW did it. I had a 96 VW Golf CL with a 1.8L tbi (canadian version) which has a very similar head/engine style (I believe chrysler actually used VW's design to make the 2.2/2.5) and it had a plastic thermostat like fiting (o-ring style) which came out very close to where your fitting is (I specifically remember it as the plastic cracked (pretty common after hundreds of heat cycles). I just don't remember where that hose ran to. I've attached a pic of the motor, but it's not great, will have to do more research. Do you know what has to be done to get it to work with a more stock setup which uses one of those holes to mount a bracket which holds the stock airbox. I'm assuming a spacer would be needed and or the bracket modified to fit with this setup.
Wow that does look like our engine..

When bleeding the cooling system, you can just disconnect the hose from the t-stathousing and hold the open end of it near the same height as the bleeder port, I think that would allow you to bleed them system properly.

This is totally an evolving project! We've already gone through three different adapter designs in the last two weeks lol. Ill do whatever you guys want as long as its still something I can reasonably hope to make a few bucks on.

As far as where to hook the hose..can someone explain to me why connecting it to the tstat housing is not as good, if not better than any other location? Its like relocating the tstat housing to the proper place on the end of the head, to where we would never have even thought about needing this mod, right? Plus, you send hot coolant through the radiator, which is important, right?

Is it that sending it to the water pump goes above and beyond just eliminating the wall and actually drastically increases flow or something? Is that it?

I laid out a piece of hose in my '90 2.5 daytona and it looks like 3 feet would get you from the freeze plug to the water pump. That adds about $10 to the cost of the kit. I'm assuming you would want a straight fitting instead of a 90 to connect the hose to the pump, so that doesnt really change the price.

Its too big to fit in small priority rate box though, and too heavy for first class, so shipping goes up $5.

So I can make you a custom kit as follows, and you can be our water pump pioneer :)

-3 feet instead of 1 foot of hose +$10
-replace one of the 90 degree fittings with a straight 3/8npt to 8an fitting $0
-shipping +$5

So $75 shipped gets you a water pump version. Hehe I hope Pope isnt listening I think he wanted that. I can do it for you too Pope if you want, just paypal me the extra $15, but you both will have to wait a couple days for the hose and straight fittings to come in. Would ship early next week.

As far as the stock airbox, the previous version of the adapter had only one bolt hole (the upper one, pics earlier in this thread) which apparently is used for the heater hose bracket? I think that would let you use the stock airbox. My daytona has the weird lunchbox airbox (short and long front to back) which I think only uses the lower hole.

I could modify the adapter to have a custom hole pattern for whatever, but I would need dimensions if its not my car.
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:36 PM   #195
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this is what I have
Aerator Pump A-Series Livewell Pump System 500gph - Products - Discount Ski Tubes and gear located in Sydney, Australia


when doing a water to air intercooler the issue is room. The next is great place to put a pump and the tank. You need a tank for more volume, needed for cooling. The 160 LPH Ford Mustang pumps don't flush the IC with enough coolant fast enough. They are also very expensive. So the V8 group uses bilge pumps. The one I have is 500 LPH and has 3/4 NPT ends. Doing pools for a living I know any restriction on the suction side is like small exhaust with a turbo..

A square box, that uses the 3 bolt holes for the charcoal can. That hangs down enough to mount the pump either in front of it or under the frame. That also has a 3/4" bung at the top to use the hole for the charcoal can would be great. All TDs basically use the same can. Female threaded bungs up and down in 3/4" NPT would allow the fitting to be screwed in at the top and the pump screwed in the bottom. Bilge pumps come with the gasket and so on to screw them down, but the cap in the charcoal can hole would need a threaded hole though and be sealed.

This would be great for GLH and mini van owners that need water to air for room and keeping there AC.
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