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Old 12-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #241
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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I got my pod from Cindy and its nice, but I won't be using it until I have more than 3 extra gauges as I think it looks a little ricey.
i have a gauge pod from cindy and thats all i have in my daytona and it looks nice and clean
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:22 PM   #242
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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i have a gauge pod from cindy and thats all i have in my daytona and it looks nice and clean
Don't get me wrong, it does look clean, and I actually do like the way it looks, but so many people around here have pods in N/A hondas, GTP ponti-wrecks and bone-stock subarus that I just cant bring myself to run one also.

Edit: cant forget the bone-stock volvo turbos and VWs that people think are fast for some reason.
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:33 PM   #243
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depends on which volkswagen your talking about but it still dont matter, put gauges in whatever you want, its a well known fact that factory gauges aren't the best
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #244
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depends on which volkswagen your talking about but it still dont matter, put gauges in whatever you want, its a well known fact that factory gauges aren't the best
Yeah true sorry just in a hater mood today

Anyway back on topic, Acannell I mentioned a formed SMEC/SBEC cover for G-bodies a page or two ago, IDK if you saw it but would that even be possible? If not something you are interested in making, I will be making one for sure in the spring or if it dries up this winter.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:20 PM   #245
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Yeah true sorry just in a hater mood today

Anyway back on topic, Acannell I mentioned a formed SMEC/SBEC cover for G-bodies a page or two ago, IDK if you saw it but would that even be possible? If not something you are interested in making, I will be making one for sure in the spring or if it dries up this winter.
I cant really form sheet metal, or at least, I dont know how to with my tools. If its just a flat section with flat angles, I can do that. It might be pretty cheap too if its really simple (one piece of sheet metal with two mounting brackets welded on? Can you cut a piece of cardboard and show me how you would want it to be?
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:23 PM   #246
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Is there a need for a plate that lets you replace your radio with gauges? I.e. a flat plastic plate with three big gauge holes in it, and the right hole pattern to fit in the radio spot?

Or, same thing, but instead of replacing the radio, replacing some other rectangular object or open space?

I'm not very familiar with all the turbo dodge bodies and interiors, just my 90 daytona g body, so I need people to tell me if other interiors might have spots for this.

I can make plastic parts like this out of ABS very quickly and pretty inexpensively. It machines fast, the toolpath is simple, and the material (for thin abs) is fairly inexpensive.

DetroitTurbo: I got your shifter handle. I've got some questions:

-Is replacing the metal red part optional, required, or not allowed?
-Do you have any pictures of a shifter handle that looks how you want yours to look?
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:35 PM   #247
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how about lightweight aluminum alternator and power steering pulleys?
might bee to complicated just thought i'd mention it anyway
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:44 PM   #248
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how about lightweight aluminum alternator and power steering pulleys?
might bee to complicated just thought i'd mention it anyway
if you look at the pulleys i dont think they could be more lightweight or have less rotating mass, the alternator is about 2" diameter and the power steering is just a skeleton.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:45 PM   #249
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what about spacers so we can use wider wheels? you know, a plate that goes between the wheel and brake rotor? is that how that works?
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:00 PM   #250
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Replacing the red part is optional. But basically what I want is the button and palm rest to be aluminum, that way I can polish them and get like Turbo z engraved in it or something. If you have an easier way that involves replacing the whole handle, go for it. I'll make some drawings tonight and send then to you.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:38 PM   #251
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what about spacers so we can use wider wheels? you know, a plate that goes between the wheel and brake rotor? is that how that works?
one plate that would be killer is to use the Willwood caliper with the older knuckle (which would include L body). Then design it for using the factory 11" rotors.

This would make adding the 11" brakes easier to the L body and drop weight. Factory wheels would need a plate for 2 piston calipers, so that would be the first direction. Maybe for a Shelby 2 piston Mustang caliper?

GLHNSLHT2 made an aluminum spacer for inbetween the axle and the spindle for my car on the rear then the Eibach front spacer works. What would be very popular is a rear spacer, 1/2" thick made for a 2" drop on a mini van with the use of car inner bolts. So you get a 2" drop and the 11" car rear brakes. Would allow the use of Daytona front struts and drop to work out.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:02 PM   #252
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one plate that would be killer is to use the Willwood caliper with the older knuckle (which would include L body). Then design it for using the factory 11" rotors.

This would make adding the 11" brakes easier to the L body and drop weight. Factory wheels would need a plate for 2 piston calipers, so that would be the first direction. Maybe for a Shelby 2 piston Mustang caliper?

GLHNSLHT2 made an aluminum spacer for inbetween the axle and the spindle for my car on the rear then the Eibach front spacer works. What would be very popular is a rear spacer, 1/2" thick made for a 2" drop on a mini van with the use of car inner bolts. So you get a 2" drop and the 11" car rear brakes. Would allow the use of Daytona front struts and drop to work out.
Wow that sounds pretty cool!

I have none of these vehicles (well, I do have a daytona!) so I am totally blind here. If someone really wants this and can provide a hole pattern or drawing, it might be something I can whip out.

_especially_ if its just a hole pattern..that may be something I can center drill on the mill for precision and then drill out on the drill press. if it has a BIG hole somewhere, I can mill that on the mill, then center drill the smaller holes for the drill press. I need someone to tell me where all the holes are though.

I really want to make some more cool thingamajigs for us! I've spent all day today and yesterday machining coolant mod plates..but tomorrow I'm going to look real-real-hard at the daytona..there must be at least ONE other cool thing we could all use.

One thing I'm thinking about (more for me, because I need it) is a relocation kit for the overflow bottle. I ran my intercooler pipes through its mounting location, so I just bought an ugly generic bottle with vinyl hose and moved it over above the charcoal canister. It works (and surprisingly, has worked leak free for 5 years..wtf), but its extremely stupid looking. I could make an all aluminum one with a hard pipe and brackets to be a super dooper neato install. But how to make it so you can see the internal level? Hmm. I dont like those things with the clear tube and two elbows..looks bad IMO..unless I can make a really clean looking version.

Also, and this is something else I personally need, a drop-in water injection system that mounts the shurflo pump to a huge reservoir that fits in the G-body drivers-side front fender space (where the charcoal canister is, but on the other side of the car). The reservoir would be custom shaped to maximize volume, and have brackets so it bolts in place. Would come with tubing, solenoid valve, pressure switch, injector, etc... I already have a homebrew working H20 system so i know all the parts to get and how to hook it up, but my reservoir is really small and plastic. This would be a BITCHIN system but I would need at least one more person to be SERIOUSLY interested, needing only to see pics of it finished, before I could work on it. Its several days of work at least. But I could guarantee a price beforehand. Note that the parts themselves are $150..so it would be up near $300 for the system with custom tank.

What about these things:

-Replacing the cable clutch with a hydraulic one? (is this an improvement?)

-Replacing the cable shifter system with some kind of hard linkage (is that better or worse?) OR making something that makes the crappy chinese cable replacements work reliably

-Some kind of mechanism to increase the perceived engagement distance (so its not so ON-OFF) for TU pressure plates (is that even possible?)

-Do G-bodys with 523/568 need a short throw kit? (or is there any version of our cars that doesnt have a short throw kit developed for it?)

-Like DetroitTurbo wants, a custom cool looking automatic shifter handle...
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:31 PM   #253
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this might seem vague, and your Daytona interior might differ but...I've always wanted to replace my stock boost gauge with an aftermarket one in a way that doesn't make the dash/old gauge look choppe up.
maybe an aluminum square the size of the current rectangular gauge with a 2" hole in it?
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:41 PM   #254
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this might seem vague, and your Daytona interior might differ but...I've always wanted to replace my stock boost gauge with an aftermarket one in a way that doesn't make the dash/old gauge look choppe up.
maybe an aluminum square the size of the current rectangular gauge with a 2" hole in it?
Yes thats what im talking about! I would make it out of ABS unless you specifically wanted aluminum. Can you take a picture of it? My daytona doesnt have a boost gauge. And if possible, can you take it out so we can see how it mounts, and if possible the hole pattern and locations.

Please have a ruler or tape measure in any picture you take!
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:07 PM   #255
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how much for those SEXY CS oil cap?!
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