one plate that would be killer is to use the Willwood caliper with the older knuckle (which would include L body). Then design it for using the factory 11" rotors.
This would make adding the 11" brakes easier to the L body and drop weight. Factory wheels would need a plate for 2 piston calipers, so that would be the first direction. Maybe for a Shelby 2 piston Mustang caliper?
GLHNSLHT2 made an aluminum spacer for inbetween the axle and the spindle for my car on the rear then the Eibach front spacer works. What would be very popular is a rear spacer, 1/2" thick made for a 2" drop on a mini van with the use of car inner bolts. So you get a 2" drop and the 11" car rear brakes. Would allow the use of Daytona front struts and drop to work out.
Wow that sounds pretty cool!
I have none of these vehicles (well, I do have a daytona!) so I am totally blind here. If someone really wants this and can provide a hole pattern or drawing, it might be something I can whip out.
_especially_ if its just a hole pattern..that may be something I can center drill on the mill for precision and then drill out on the drill press. if it has a BIG hole somewhere, I can mill that on the mill, then center drill the smaller holes for the drill press. I need someone to tell me where all the holes are though.
I really want to make some more cool thingamajigs for us! I've spent all day today and yesterday machining coolant mod plates..but tomorrow I'm going to look real-real-hard at the daytona..there must be at least ONE other cool thing we could all use.
One thing I'm thinking about (more for me, because I need it) is a relocation kit for the overflow bottle. I ran my intercooler pipes through its mounting location, so I just bought an ugly generic bottle with vinyl hose and moved it over above the charcoal canister. It works (and surprisingly, has worked leak free for 5 years..wtf), but its extremely stupid looking. I could make an all aluminum one with a hard pipe and brackets to be a super dooper neato install. But how to make it so you can see the internal level? Hmm. I dont like those things with the clear tube and two elbows..looks bad IMO..unless I can make a really clean looking version.
Also, and this is something else I personally need, a drop-in water injection system that mounts the shurflo pump to a huge reservoir that fits in the G-body drivers-side front fender space (where the charcoal canister is, but on the other side of the car). The reservoir would be custom shaped to maximize volume, and have brackets so it bolts in place. Would come with tubing, solenoid valve, pressure switch, injector, etc... I already have a homebrew working H20 system so i know all the parts to get and how to hook it up, but my reservoir is really small and plastic. This would be a BITCHIN system but I would need at least one more person to be SERIOUSLY interested, needing only to see pics of it finished, before I could work on it. Its several days of work at least. But I could guarantee a price beforehand. Note that the parts themselves are $150..so it would be up near $300 for the system with custom tank.
What about these things:
-Replacing the cable clutch with a hydraulic one? (is this an improvement?)
-Replacing the cable shifter system with some kind of hard linkage (is that better or worse?) OR making something that makes the crappy chinese cable replacements work reliably
-Some kind of mechanism to increase the perceived engagement distance (so its not so ON-OFF) for TU pressure plates (is that even possible?)
-Do G-bodys with 523/568 need a short throw kit? (or is there any version of our cars that doesnt have a short throw kit developed for it?)
-Like DetroitTurbo wants, a custom cool looking automatic shifter handle...