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Old 11-16-2012, 07:37 PM   #121
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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Hey I cant figure out how to get the wastegate actuator on my turbo and fit the braided coolant line past it? I see you have the braided lines so I thought you might be able to help.
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Old 11-16-2012, 07:45 PM   #122
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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Hey I cant figure out how to get the wastegate actuator on my turbo and fit the braided coolant line past it? I see you have the braided lines so I thought you might be able to help.
before i put the header on it wasnt too bad, but now with it its REALLY close, i have maybe 1/16" clearance...

sorry this is the best picture i have of my install.. i know the arm and actuator isnt installed in it, but you can see that the holes would line up for it..

my "hybrid" is kinda weird..its a small turbo kit that fwdp used to sell, yours might be very different.

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Old 11-16-2012, 08:53 PM   #123
Re: Free CNC machining for all!!  
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here's a pic of what i'm talking about with where i'd run the line to.
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:14 PM   #124
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suggestion for a part
just reading another thread about swaping a t3 head onto a non t3 short block

some mods to your dimentions and you could make a block off plate for the dist hole
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:54 PM   #125
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update on the 4th cyl coolant mod for sale on ebay:

i got a tap and orings..so now...

it includes the port tapped to 3/8NPT and the proper viton fluroelastomer oring.

the fitting in the pic is not included

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Old 11-19-2012, 07:23 PM   #126
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What's the psi in the system when hot or what's the rad cap max?
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:20 AM   #127
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here are some ideas for the 4th cyl coolant mod adapter:

-the piston type seal (current version in the pics)
-a face seal version (oring gets squished between adapter and outer surface of head)
-an RTV version (adapter is bigger than freeze plug enough to allow for a clean bead of RTV to be applied)
-a version which has all the above features (you can pick where to put the oring, or you can use RTV, or both. it may be possible to design it to use both orings simultaneously too.

these different versions would allow for more flexibility, especially if your head surface or freeze plug ID has damage/scratches or whatever)..still need to test it. sorry but i havent been able too..hopefully in the next couple days. i bought the little rubber expansion plug freeze plug so i can plug it up right away if things dont work.
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:15 PM   #128
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since somebody bought my first 4th cylinder coolant mod adapter, I had to make another one to test it, since I never got to install the first one.

but this time I tried out a face seal instead of the bore seal on the first one. so now the oring gets squished between the head outside surface and the adapter, instead of inside the freeze plug hole like a piston.

the oring is slightly smaller for this attempt and the gland adjusted accordingly.

sorry for no pics of the machined side of the adapter. i was in such a rush today to try this out i totally forgot to take pics.

i installed it on my 89 daytona with a generic, but correctly sized rubber oring (not viton like the first one). i filled the coolant back up, and installed plugs into the adapter and the bleeder hole on the tstat housing. so this is a test run with no hose yet..just to see if the oring seal works at all.

i let the car idle until the fan came on, and hooray no leaks!

its getting dark out so I will do more testing tomorrow. I have all my parts now (braided hose, hard tubing, an fittings galore) so if testing passes okay, I should be able to try out the whole setup.

note from the install:

-removing the bleeder plug can be difficult. mine wouldnt turn with an 8mm socketed allen bit, and ended up stripping its hex. i had to weld a piece of allen wrench into it to get it out.

-i ended up popping the freeze plug INTO the head, and then prying it out with vice grips acting as a lever and the edge of the freeze plug hole as the fulcrum. not that hard, but not exactly pretty. have yet to pull one out flawless.

-looks like the elbow that goes onto the tstat housing bleeder hole hits the valve cover when you try to install it..so you will need to take the valve cover off to do so :(. however, I found a swivel fitting that works and only raises the price about $10. its worth it IMO.

- there are some stamped numbers pretty close to the freeze plug, which would make the oring not seal if they were under it. looks like on my head they arent TOO close, but youd want to check your head for a nice surface around the freeze plug before you used this face seal version. I used a bastard file and lightly filed the area around the plug in case there were any burrs..then wiped it with acetone.

the pics are of the allen wrench i had to weld into the bleeder plug (which I replaced with a brass one with a big hex head like a nut), and the adapter itself at operating temperature (215+F)

more testing tomorrow!



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Old 11-27-2012, 09:07 PM   #129
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Dude good job! I want!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:12 PM   #130
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I want a couple lol, but not for coolant feed, I'll route the heater core there. Also a ported water pump housing doesn't have the pressure stock does.

I always use impact guns to take out those plugs, super easy and painless vs torquing them out.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:14 PM   #131
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What does the lower pressure have to do with this mod? I was thinking of porting mine.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #132
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I want a couple lol, but not for coolant feed, I'll route the heater core there. Also a ported water pump housing doesn't have the pressure stock does.

I always use impact guns to take out those plugs, super easy and painless vs torquing them out.

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Dude good job! I want!
Awesome thanks! You may want to check your heads now and make sure that the zone around the freeze plug is flat and free of any scratches or nicks, because thats the oring sealing area. If it IS scratched, I could make the adapter without the oring groove and you could use RTV. That may actually be a more robust solution, but uglier.

The oring seal isnt out of the woods yet..it needs some major abuse and temperature swings before we can call it worthy I think.. tomorrow I'll do some 20psi runs and heat things up. If its still leak free, I'll put the hose on and test the whole enchilada.

The version in the pic is machined out of 0.250" thick aluminum, and you can see a tiny gap form at the end furthest from the bolt hole, since the compression of the oring tries to push the plate away from the head. The gap is about 10 to 20 thou. A few thou makes a difference in the world of oring compression, so I will make the final version out of a thicker material, probably 0.375" thick. Since stiffness goes up as the fourth power of thickness, hopefully that will reduce the teeny gap drastically or eliminate it so the plate is flush with the head. But it seems to not leak even though its not perfectly flat! So thats a good indicator that its fairly robust!
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:24 PM   #133
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well stock you have a nasty wall for coolant to run into, backs up the pump in the housing. Raised pressure over the pressure at the head over there. so you use a tiny little line to bleed a little pressure off into that part of the head. Lets a little coolant get to #4. That is the #4 coolant mod.

Ported water pump housing and move the heater line there and your actually flushing fluid to the end of the head. and moving more volume. Debating which is easier though lol. The heater core is also setup off the feed of the water pump, so it is creating a vac there too. Doing the same thing on my V8 too. Using the large bypass on the small block to the rear of the engine at the heads. Circle track does this, I have a blower and street drive it. same reasons though. Dealing with hot spots in the heads that cause detonation.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:42 PM   #134
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Ah I see. I wont be running anything to the heater core until fall and only for a month or so just to defog the window before the snow. So would I just run a line from acannells adapter to the side port of my water pump? or like he is doing and run it to the thermostat housing?
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:44 PM   #135
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Ah I see. I wont be running anything to the heater core until fall and only for a month or so just to defog the window before the snow. So would I just run a line from acannells adapter to the side port of my water pump? or like he is doing and run it to the thermostat housing?
to the stat housing is a waste of time, should go to the side port on the water pump housing
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