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idle motor issues

Engine 
2K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  JONYMOPAR 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I got a 85 Daytona T1 when I first start the car the rpm,s race to about 2000, if I unplug the connector to the motor and plug back in the rpms come down, I have taken the motor out and cleaned it. I don't think it is a faulty connection because it is too repeatable, any thoughts. thanks
 
#5 ·
If TPS voltage is above 1.00 volt the engine controller thinks you are on the throttle and sets the AIS for decel.

Without knowing what the engine controller is seeing, what base idle is set at or what any other basic readings are...

Also, if you are disconnecting and reconnecting the AIS while the engine is running you may spike the controller.
 
#6 ·
which wire do I measure? , I did a little experiment, I depressed the throttle about 1/3 down then started the engine, this rpms raced even higher with my foot off the gas , which seems to me the tps is sending the wrong voltage when at home position.
 
#7 ·
Key On/Engine Off,you want to measure voltage between the Signal and Signal Return Wires which would be the OR/DB and the BK/LB wires.
The OR/WT is the 5 Volt Reference.

At closed throttle voltage should be between .30 volts and .90 volts.
At WOT voltage should be above 3.50 volts.
When sweeping the throttle open from closed throttle to WOT voltage should rise consistently and steadily with no voltage spikes or dropoffs.

PM Being Sent
 
#12 ·
It is located on the output shaft housing of the transmission on the passenger side. There is a two wire connector connected to it, and on some cars also a speedometer cable. It is held in place with a 10mm bolt that can be a little difficult to get to. If the CV joint shield is in place (bolted to the k-frame) it will have to be removed for service.
 
#14 ·
Please... Check your AIC (air idle control) motor.. The gen 1 AIC is very different from the gen 2.. If your AIC does not work properly, you will not idle right.. Also, check for voltage change in your TPS. If there is anything wrong with the TPS, check with a multimeter.. Max voltage is 5V. If you see and indirect voltage, or complete drop of all voltage when at idle position, that can also be a factor. Also, clean all contacts in the connectors. That can be contributing
 
#15 ·
Ok changed the TPS, seem to have the same issue, so I took a chance and loosened the clamp on the AIS and rotated it to get the idle speed I wanted, THAT WORKED, SEEMS FINE NOW. Did I stumble on the correct way to set base Idle. ??
 
#16 ·
Unfortunately no, you didn't.
By loosening the clamp of the AIS and turning the motor against the valve, you probably just forced the valve closed. Now your AIS is off however many degrees you turned it and may not adjust properly when the computer tells it to.
The correct way to get the AIS to close is to remove a large vacuum line, like the one that feeds the PCV vacuum. The engine rpm should increase due to the added unmetered air entering the engine.
The computer will close the AIS in an effort to reduce the engine speed.
Once the engine rpms decrease, unplug the AIS. Reconnect the vacuum line disconnected earlier. Adjust the idle screw to the correct engine idle speed. 900 rpm for manual teans, 1000 rpm for auto.
Shut down the engine and reconnect the AIS.

You can test your AIS by removing it from the throttle body and disconnecting the electrical connector. If you apply 12 volts to the AIS wires, the valve should open or close. Swap the wires and the AIS should move in the opposite direction. If it does not move smoothly you can try lubricanting the valve end with some penetrating oil. There is a sun gear type arrangement inside that moves the valve. Sometimes these get gummed up. Most times the assembly is just shot. I've never had any luck rebuilding these, they just continue to fail. New ones are NS1, good used ones are hard to find.
 
#20 ·
The answer to your question is yes, a little white lithium grease wouldn't hurt at all.....however, the position of the housing, the internal gears, and the mounting flange is not intended to be variable. Meaning that it is assembled at the factory in a specific order and orientation and when you take it apart, if you do not look and mark exactly where everything was then after reassembly (I have read many many many times) it will not be right and the valve will never work right again till it is reassembled in the proper orientation.

This COULD be more legend than fact, I personally have never tested the theory and since I had prior knowledge of this tribal knowledge, when I took any of mine apart I made very clear notes of the position of everything. However this common turbo Dodge factoid does at least make good sense in that the valve itself does have a limit to how many degrees it can turn the auxiliary air cam to make more or less air available for a proper idle. If the device is reassembled beyond the turning limits, you wont get proper idle control.

Hopefully you made note of the position of everything and when reassembled you got it right or 'close enough'.
 
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